Chickenman

IMHO, the Red wording tells you the issue. Your low speed circuit on the carb is likely plugged. Either the Low speed jet or a bit of debris in the low speed circuit. Plug is wet because Ignition can't fire the Lean mixture. There is still fuel in the mixture, but too lean to initiate combustion at idle. Hence... a wet plug. You have already cheeked spark and compression on #5. You reported both are good. That leaves fuel as the culprit.

Yeah, as we've discussed privately, the TS VE tables are not all that accurate. Gets even worse with modified engines. They tend to be too rich on the low end and too Lean on the Top end. The calculated VE tables all seem to Peak at around 4,000 then the values taper off. This simulates the top end drop off in VE that most stock engines experience. Unfortunately this does not take into consideration any modifications for improved performance which can extend the peak VE range. It also does not take into consideration more modern technologies such as VVT.. Basic problem is that the Tuner Studio VE Calculator is not all that refined. I've just done a couple of Tunes where I've taken the max VE values ( usually around 4K ) and extended those values to the end of the RPM range. This seems to be much more realistic strategy for modern engines. Unfortunately Auto Tune cannot do WOT tuning. It's too slow.

Yes, I agree on that 100%. I've seen the Nylon screws and Nuts on MS Boards as well. ..

No actually you tend to give incomplete, confusing or even contradictory information which leads to confusion. Not flaming you. Just making you aware that you must be clear and concise in communications, and sometimes you aren't.

Yeah, that would make more sense. Buy DIY does supply a metal screw for some reason. They also supply a flanged plastic grommet to insulate the screw from the Driver. The larger diameter flange is suppossed to go against the screw head. I wonder if it is possible to put that insulator in upside down so that the tin collar is facing the screw head. Thta might cause the screw head to barely touch the case when tightened down. A bump in the Road could be all it took??? You can see the white plastic insulator collar and the flange that is supposed to seat against the screw head in the following picture. .

This used to happen with computer CPU's all the time. Apply a bit too much thermal compound and it will flow over the edges of the CPU and onto electrical traces surrounding the CPU. It takes some time for this to happen though, as the CPU has to heat up considerably before the thermal compound thins out from heat. A lot of the cheaper ( and not so cheap ) brands still contain metallic particles ( Silver, Copper, Aluminium ) that can be conductive. AMD CPU's with the exposed flip chip were infamous for shorting out when too much Thermal compound was applied. I use Arctic Cooling MX-2 or MX-4 which is a non-conductive thermal compound on all my Computer builds now. Just something to double check...

Ummm..pretty positive is not really good enough. Many CPU thermal greases are electrically conductive. Does it have a brand name? Usually any of the white pastes are OK, but any thing that is grey or silver in colour usually contains Silver particles to increase efficiency.

Well... that would certainly do it. What are you using for a Thermal compound? You must be sure it's 100% non-conductive.

And don't forget a new gasket. BTW, the spindle gears are made at an angle, so that when you install the spindle shaft the shaft will rotate. The trick is to line up the shaft so that the slot on the end is purposely misaligned at the start. Then it should rotate into the correct position as you push the oil pump up. I prefer pull the complete dizzy out and mark the location of the spindle tang to the dizzy mounting tab with a Sharpy. Don't forget it's offset as well. Take pictures with your Smart Phone as well. Digital camera's are awesome when you are taking things apart.

Your assumption that the 5/16" feed line for your feed line being adequate for 330 HP is wrong. 5/16" is barely adequate for 200 HP. Even the anemic Chevy engines of the 1970's used 3/8" fuel lines. Do your self a favor and when you have the tank out and cleaned, have the Tank shop replace the feed line with 3/8" and return line to the tank with 5/16" or 3/8". its easy for them to do. Them plumb new chassis hard lines from the fuel tank all the way to the front. The 5/16" lines will be just too restrictive. They also work the pump harder than necessary. And people forget about acceleration. Fuel has inertia. When you floor it, all that fuel has Mass that is now working against the fuel pump. This drastically reduces fuel flow. Anything that can be done to reduce restriction helps. Top Fuel Drag cars always have the Fuel Tanks up front due to the extreme acceleration they produce. So acceleration forces push the fuel back towards the engine, thus helping the fuel flow.

In addition to the timing bolt that tightens down the dizzy adjustment plate ( 10mm head ) there is also a small bolt with an 8 mm head on the underside of the timing plate that allows additional adjustment. Make a Mark on the dizzy body that correspond with #1 spark tower terminal. Rotate engine to the actual timing mark. Be it 10, 15, or 20 BTDC ... and then pop the Cap off and see where the rotor is pointing in relation to #1 terminal. It should be fairly close. Loosen timing bolt (s ) and adjust so that rotor is centered on the mark you just made. Put everything back together and double check timing. It should be just about bang on. Note: if rotor is off by a bunch, you are off a Tooth or more on the distributor and oil pump drive spindle. Picture of bolt on bottom side of dizzy that allows additional adjustment. Normally this bolt is in the middle of the slot. This one is at end of slot because owner had spindle shaft a tooth off.

It sounds like you could be a Tooth off on your timing spindle. BTW, Stock timing for the L28 Turbo engine is 20 BTDC ( because of the low compression ). That is not quite the correct procedure. The shaft Tab does not quite line up with the top dizzy mounting hole. It is offset a bit to the right. Triple check that the outer inertia ring on the damper hasn't slipped. Bring #1 piston up to TDC and verify that it is a TDC with a Piston Stop tool or a long thin screwdriver in #1 hole. Using the screwdriver method, slowly rotate crank by hand until #1 is almost at TDC. Insert long thin screwdriver and touch to dome of piston. Continue to slowly rotate crank by hand. ( Best to remove all plugs ) . You should feel screwdriver rise, pause and then proceed to drop downwards. At the halfway point of the " Pause " that is true TDC. Then see if your mark on the damper lines up with the TDC mark on the indicator tab. They should be very, very close.

I can probably help you out. PM sent

The " Like " button doesn't always ( or ever ) work for some reason...

Here's a video from one of out local Road racers using an L28 with a fairly simple Turbo setup ( T3/T4 ) . 400 HP reliably at 15 lbs boost and basically a stock block with forged Pistons. No trick internals ( other than good Forged Pistons ), stock stroke and bore .040" over. Stock rods ( Polished and shot peened ) with ARP studs. Stock crank. Everything has been balanced of course. Note: Trans-AM that passes him is a local Hillclimb car with over 500 HP. Keeping revs down ( 6,500 max ) is one key too longevity. Turbo cars do not need big revs to make power. Watch at 1.14. That's what 400 HP does on a Race Car with soft Goodyear race slicks. Should be enough for any street car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BiF8-kIZCk&feature=share

I'll throw my Hat into the ring. 1: Buy 2 F54 Turbo blocks. Freshen one with just rings, a quick ball hone and bearings if needed. This is going to be your " Mule " testing block while you sort out your Fuel injection and Tune. Don't spend a lot of money on this block as it will be a scarificail Lamb for mistakes. 2: Slowly build your " Good " engine block with all the good components. If you want a reliable 350 to 400+ HP, this is the engine that your put the Forged pistons in. With a Turbo, you don't need a stroker and you don't need to turn big revs . Revs = $$$$$ Stock polished rods with ARP bolts are very strong and can easily with stand 500 HP. 3: MS 3 is OK... but there are better systems out there. Try and pick up a used Haltech, Link or Adaptronics. 4: ACT clutch would be my last choice. Seem to be a lot of quality control issues with ACT. Same with Spec. Go with South bend or Clutchmasters. BT VW/Audi guys find that South Bend and Clutchmasters seem to be the most reliable, short of Multi-Plate Tiltons.

Timing bump by you is OK. I always go a bit conservative. Last hand in the Cookie Jar... LOL

Whoa.... hold on. 3.06 and 3.22 versions of TS are Windows only programs. You shouldn't be running those on a Mac. There is a separate version for Mac. Latest is 3.0.0.1 And it's only good for Mac OS 10.7 and later... http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads

Looks like the Mac Book could be part of the issue.... especially as it crashes with the latest version of TS. Buy a cheap Laptop with a serial port. Nothing fancy. Load it up with Windows XP. 7, 8.1 or 10 and use it only for tuning. I have a Dell D630 that I use just for tuning loaded with XP Pro.

Important: You cannot Burn files to the ECU with engine running. MegaSquirt has huge warnings on this. It will corrupt the Tune's stored data. Engine has to be turned off, then ignition turned back on but engine can NOT be running. especially when changing Trigger settings. You have to switch the engine off. You will get a warning about losing Data. Click on the " **** Off " button. Turn ignition on and you will get a Comparison screen with new Data and old data. Click on the button at the lower left to apply new settings. Very poorly written software. A good work around is an Ignition kill switch that stops the engine without cutting ignition power to the MS ECU. Otherwise you have to do the funky chicken Tuner Studio off/on hokey pokey dance. If you have Burned a Table to ECU with engine running. Delete the saved tune from any Folders and start from scratch. The download folder for Firmware updates always contains a " Default Tune " . Something that MS doesn't seem to tell you... but it's there. Here is one of the warnings ( there are several;l ) about NOT burning changes to tables or settings while the engine is running. Note: There are many more tables and settings that cannot be burned ( with engine running ) than just these two. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/configure.htm There is a Tuner Studio version for Mac OS 10.7 and up, but you cannot use the Windows version . Emulators may work... I really don't know. Crank Trigger setup and Toothed Wheel #1 is explained on page #123 of MS 3.57 hardware manual: http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS2V357_Hardware-3.4.pdf/MS2V357_Hardware-3.4.html

Disconnect Crank sensor so injectors don't fire and flood engine. Remove #1 Spark plug ( or all plugs to make it easier. . Turn motor over by hand ratchet or a remote starter cord till you can feel compression as piston comes up to TDC. ( Stick finger in plug hole ). Rotate final few degrees by hand instill piston is confirmed at TDC on the compression stroke. Timing marks should be lined up at 0 degree BTDC. If not, find out why. Either damper ring has slipped, you have a mismatched damper to engine or wrong timing Tab. If everything lines up at TDC continue with the following. 1: Go online with your MS. Go to Trigger settings. Confirm you have the Trigger wheel configured correctly. Count back the number of Teeth from the missing Tooth to the Crank sensor. Missing Tooth should have rotated PAST the Crank sensor by X number of teeth when Engine is at TDC. The missing Tooth should be 7 - 8 Teeth ahead of the sensor. Each Tooth = 10 degrees. So missing Tooth has to pass Crank sensor 70 to 80 degrees BEFORE TDC. This is very important. Re-position Crank wheel to get the missing Tooth ahead of Crank sensor by 7 to 8 teeth Minimum. 2: With Crank wheel properly located, count back number of Teeth from missing Tooth to Crank sensor. Multiply that number by 10 and enter as " Tooth #1 Angle ( deg BTDC ) " IE: Count 8 teeth back. 8 x 10 = 80 deg BTDC. The ECU has to sense when the #1 piston is approaching TDC. At cruise, combined RPM advance and Load ( vacuum ) advance can Typically be 45 to 50 degrees BTDC. Then the ECU needs some time to do some calculations. So we add a buffer of time, measured in crank degrees. This is typically 20 to 30 degrees of crank rotation. So 50 + 30 = 80 3: Set Fixed Advance setting to " Fixed advance ". Set " Timing for Fixed advance " value to 10 degrees. 4: Plug crank sensor back and disconnect injector plugs. You don't want to flood engine. ( At some point I presume you have put the Plugs back in.. LOL ) 5: Make sure battery is fully charged and is on a charger. 6: Hook up your Dial Back Timing light. make sure Dial Back is set at zero. 7: Have assistant crank engine ( or use remote starter button ) while you observe timing marks. You want to synch the ECU to 10 deg BTDC. If timing light does not show 10 BTDC ( and it should be pretty close ) , adjust the " Tootth #1 Angle ( deg BTDC ) up or down to sync Timing mark at 10 deg. Note do NOT adjust Dial Back on Timing light. It must be set to zero. Also do NOT moves the Crank sensor position ( if it is adjustable ). You are making all the adjustments electronically in the ECU. Do not turn off ignition or you will lose settings!!! 8: Once you have ECU synched to Timing Mark of 10. Go back to the Fixed Timing button and change setting to : " Use Table" . Then " Burn " with ignition on. Important Note. Tuner Studio automatically saves the Tune you are working on as a CurrentTune.msq in your Projects folder. But it only saves 1 CurrentTune.msq at a time. Evry time you close down TS or Turn off the Ignition, CurrentTune.msq will be over written. This can get you lost in a big hurry. I always save my working Tunes with a unique name. TS use a date format that gets confusing. I assign names like Brian's L28 base Tune #1, Brian's Modified AFR #1, Brian's Modified AFR #2, Brian's Final Tune #127.msq, etc. Use the " Save As " option and save often. You can over write your Saved tune .msq or just change the numeric suffix to keep archived Tunes and new tunes. The important part is making a naming convention that you understand and to create backups that you can Load if a new Tune is all wonky. I also like to export my working model AFR Tables, Ignition Timing Tables and VE Tables to a separate folder on my desktop. I will also take screenshots of all of my Tables and important settings and s ave them to a folder. Then you can print hard copies of the various tables and settings and make notes using the magic of a Pen and Paper. Makes things much easier to understand and see ( 8 x 10 glossy photo much better than a tiny LapTop screen. Just ask Arlo Guthrie.... )

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After the hassle with the 1988 Toyota Supra injectors ( 11mm top O-Ring ) and getting connectors, I wish I had gone with Bosch EVI injectors with 14MM O-Rings top and bottom. 14mm EV1 Bosch High impedance injectors would be the way to go.

Replace the BIP-373. S**T happens. They are supposed to have a Thermal protection circuitry to shut them down if they over heat..... but S**T happens A BIP-373 is what $8.50?? 5 minutes with a soldering gun and you'll have either fixed it or not. Weren't we discussing this in another thread or Forum??

Picture of Holley PCV tube. Any street Holley ( and some Race models ) will have this Tube. It can also be used as a brake booster connection: