Chickenman

This just popped up on my Facebook Feed. Drooool

You should be able to connect it to the Tach output wire from the MS-2

Independant runner manifolds tend to give more Torque down low than plenum manifolds. You can get the same effect with EFI. You just have to go with ITB's. On small block Chevies , changing over from a a Plenum manifold to Weber 48 IDA downdrafts can yield an incredible bump in low end Torque. Top end Power is about the same. And the stock Nissan plenum manifolds are far from being optimised for a " high performance " motor. Now if you want a really good Plenum manifold... give these guys a call. https://www.facebook.com/customplenumcreations For ITB's Jenvey make some nice stuff. http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/throttle-body-kits Be prepared to work some overtime!! $$$$

Just a thought. You mentioned that the car had not run in a year. Did you drain the tank and put in fresh fuel? Year old ( or more ) fuel could have gone stale. Working on a new Tune for you , but best to make sure that you aren't putting any outside obstacles in your way, such as stale fuel.

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I would dump that tune and start from scratch, just to get a clean slate. Too many little things wrong with it. You could end up chasing your tail over something small. You can Export your AFR and Timing tables to your desktop and then Import them back into your fresh Tune. The VE tables is likely screwed up due to incorrect values in Req_Fuel. Very low numbers in idle Cell areas. That's not good. If that was the only problem it would not be too bad. But too many other little things have been changed from defaults. Mainly enrichments curves such as WUE, ASE, Accel enrich. Would be nice if TS had a way of setting these back to baseline defaults, but it doesn't . Make sure you are running the latest Firmware for your ECU. That should be 3.42 for and MS-2. You should not load Tunes made on different Firmware versions. You will get Format errors . Can be fixed, but a PITA. Another reason to never copy someone else's Tune. When you download the Firmware you will have a folder called "Tune_Files" in it you will find the Default 3.4.2 Tune. Use that to start off with a clean slate and have all the settings and enrichments etc at the factory defaults. I'll attach the Default 3.4.2 tune to this message. Default 3.4.2 Tune.zip

Edit: SVT40 and I were typing at the same time. Your Req-Fuel is double what it should be when your Tune is opened. . It shows as 24ms which is wrong for even a default TS setup. Set injector staging to " Alternating " and 2 squirts. Then recalculate Req_Fuel. both top and bottom figures should come out to 12.0 ms. Then recalculate your VE table using factory figures for stock HP and Torque. That will be a base starting point. If you are using the stock dropping resistors ( injectors ) you should not have PW Current Limiting enabled. ( Which it is currently ) Your Accel enrichment tables are also messed up badly. What your Req_Fuel should look like. BTW, Stock injectors are 260cc not 300.

Agreed. I start everything from scratch and develop tunes for each individual car. . But you have to know what you are doing . Incorrect info inputted to the VE generator will produce inaccurate results. Garbage In = Garbage out.. AFR Tables and Timing tables depend on Tuners skill level. Then there are the quirks of MS that you have to adjust for. The VE generator can be out as much as 20% on the low and high ends. It is a rough calculator at best.

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Might be easier just to run a new wire. Old ones are usually undersized to begin with. Use a 10 gauge Power wire to the F/Pump from the F/Pump relay.

I run a 300ZX 70 AMP Mitsubishi alternator. Single belt and bolts right on to the factory bracket. Even uses the same belt. . 1985 or 1986 300ZX NA comes with a single belt pulley. New small frame style that puts out more amperage at idle than the early Large frame alternators. That's a big plus. For that reason alone I would switch to the later mid-80's small frame alternators. Edit: Rock Auto has the AC Delco brand 3341674 for $60.79 plus $30.00 core. AC Delco makes good quality parts. If you want more you can get an alternator from a 1986 Maxima. 80 amp and 90 amp, Mitsubishi style. But you will have to swap out pulleys as it comes with a serpentine 4 groove pulley. Single groove pulley bolts right on. For the Mitsubishi style alternator you will have to change the two prong connector at the back of the alternator. It uses a Ford? Mazda style. These can be found at the wrecking yard on various mid 90's Ford vehicles and Mazda's ( Miata. Mazda Protege, Mini Vans etc etc ) . Then you just have to change the wiring to suite the Internal V/Reg. Atlantic Z and other sites have articles on how to change the wiring.

Unfortunately this video is full of Half truths. While they test for HP loss, they do absolutely no testing for cooling efficiency or CFM capacity of a fan. Fine for a Drag car but next to useless on a Street Car and totally useless on a Track Car. Flex fans are a complete joke at any thing other than a Drag car. Go put an 18" Pizza pan behind your radiator and see how much flow you get behind the Rad. Because that's exactly what a flex fan does at high RPM. Flattens out and effectively becomes nothing but a blockage to air flow. Flex fans make great Frisbee's though and are often seen in old James Bond movies ( Odd Job ) And no matter how much HP a fan " saves " you. if your engine overheats it is going to make less HP. What works on a Drag Car or a Dyno for a short pull does NOT necessarily equate to street use. A lot of things on Engine Masters is geared towards Drag Cars only. Keep that in mind. They sometimes skip important details to prove a point.

Good point from Grim. You'll need at least a 70 to 80 AMP alternator with Electric fans. Electric W/Pump... just say no. Drag Race stuff only in aftermarket. Some European Manufacturers are using electric W/Pumps to get that last MPG ( Mercedes and BMW ) and they are a huge PITA when they fail. And they do fail.... often Huge $$$ as well. Check BMW forums . 40K miles on new BMW 135 and 335 electric pumps is a common failure range. Meanwhile, Cheby and Datsun OEM W/pumps often outlive the cars. 200,000 miles on a stock W/pump is common. Engine is usually in there 2nd or 3rd car . By a NOS OEM Nissan w/pump and forget about it.

I wouldn't change the water pump. An electric pump cannot flow any where near the volume that a mechanical pump can. Electric pumps are fine on Drag Cars. Not so good on Road Race cars. And the stock cast iron Datsun pumps are very efficient. Save your money there. Electric pump would be a step backwards on a street car. Save that money for some other more worthwhile mods. A quality aluminium rad is a good idea. Lots to choose from. A few local hillclimbers have had good success using Northern Radiators. Champion, Mishimoto and Koyo are all good as well. Electric Fans. Two 12" fans are not likely going to cut it IMHO. I've seen some failures with that sort of setup. Total CFM is all important. Stock mechanical fans ( especially the 280Z with shroud ) pull Huge CFM. Look for electric fans in the 2,500 to 3,000 CFM range to even come close to the Stock 280Z fan performance. . Spal is a good choice. But $$$ in that CFM range. An excellent alternative is a Ford Taurus single fan $25 to maybe $40 at an Auto wreckers. The choice of Big Turbo cars of all types. 3,000 CFM and dual speeds. Mid 90's Volvo Fans are essentially the same and have a dual relay controller. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml BTW, I've mentioned this before. But my 1976 280Z has a custom 3 core Copper Rad, stock 8 Blade ( AC option ) plastic fan with stock shroud. new Hayden Thermal clutch and stock Atsugi ( OEM Nissan ) cast impeller W/pump. Just got back from a trip to Osoyoos . 100 F ambient. Stinkin' Hot!! Engine never went over the 185 to 190 F in stop and go traffic. With the AC on full blast. Soon as you stared to move over 30 - 40 MPH.... back to 180F. So nothing wrong with a properly maintained stock system with a good Rad. I do run some Redline Water Wetter and my block and head were cleaned in a High Pressure Steam Cabinet when the engine was rebuilt. Absolutely no scale in the heads or block. That may make a difference. Ducting can make a difference in extreme conditions as mentioned. We used ducting a a few other tricks when racing. Getting air out of the engine bay is just as important as getting it in. If you are not running the factory Splash Shield get one. It creates a low pressure area behind the engine and helps to extract air from the engine bay at Hwy speeds. Without it you get a turbulent, rolling high pressure area just behind the the lower edge of the Rad support and this pressurises the engine bay. The Splash shield straightens this turbulent, rolling flow and attaches it it to the lower pan, then by the time the flow travels to the back of the engine it is in a low pressure zone. Very simple and works amazingly well.

Have fun. There is nothing like a gummy set of real Road Racing slicks on a warm day to make you smile. When you start pulling both inside wheels at an Autocross, you know you have some serious grip!!!

Richness in AFR is above the point where idle jet ( 50F8 ) should have any effect. I would try a 145 main. to lean out the bottom, and then a 175 or 170 Main to richen the Top end a bit. Getting into twiddly stuff now.

Engine goes really rich between 3,100 to 4,000. Lambda values by curve appear to be down in the 0.70 range. Far too rich. That's in the mid 10's for AFR. Then Curve goes lean towards mid and top end. Lambda 0.93 = 13.67. You want closer to 12.8 to 13.1. Some head designs want even richer. You didn't say what Cyl head you are running. That matters a lot. Se if you can get the detailed Text print out from the Dyno operator. You'r leaving HP on the Table. Fuel curve can be refined further. If this is for a street engine, I'd try 36mm chokes. 38MM are a bit large for 45 Webers. More a Race size only. May clean up the fuel curve a bit as well. And you'll improve bottom end Torque and driveability. Lambda to AFR conversion chart. Gasoline standard at 14.7 Stoich: http://www.tatech.fi/cms/uploads/file/Lambda_vs_AFR.pdf

No you'll usually lose HP just before detonation. Very sophisticated OEM dual knock sensors can run just at the onset of " light pinging", That's how they maximize fuel mileage. But that's at light load. It's dangerous to try try that strategy at Maximum load. Plus the modern knock sensors will " hear " the pinging well before you can hear it. Turbo motors can swing so fast into detonation that you really need WB Knock sensors on a Dyno and most good Dyno operators will use Det-Cans to monitor for the slightest detonation during a run. Your AFR were logged. It's just in Lambda values. Bottom line.

What part of Canada? BC has some new FB forums created recently. One is s Buy Sell FB for any Datsun Parts. Lots of Z cars and parts out here. Put up a request for parts and we may be able to help out. I also have some personal contacts that may have some carb parts inside the 40 ft container of Z parts that he has collected. PM me if you don't get a response from a WTB ad in FB BC Datsun FB page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1852024135070677/ BC Z registry: https://www.facebook.com/bczcr/ Datsun Parts and Needs: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheZGang/

Exactly..

If you are going to balance the engine, balance the damper. In fact balance all the rotating parts including the flywheel and clutch P/Plate. If you don't bother balancing the engine, then you may as well just slap it on.

More cooling tweaks. Camaro has an open area between nose of car and rad support. Air could bypass Rad. Sides of Rad where already " Boxed in from factory and bottom edge has a scoop to direct air upwards from under car. But they left the top wide open. Dumb. Sealing this area with an aluminium top plate forces all the air to pass through the Rad. The Carb Air Box was sealed to the hood with a functional cowl vent, and yes it worked very well.

One other thing to check, although this helps more at HWY speeds. Do you have the engine splash shield installed? These often get removed and never replaced. They have an important secondary function and that is to create a low pressure area at the rear of the motor to pull air out of the engine bay. Regarding hood propped open and Temperature drops. That was a common tweak when racing Z cars. Road Racers discovered a long time ago that Z cars built up too much air pressure in the engine bays and that restricted air flow through the Rad. We used to space the hood up by 1/2" to 1" at the rear with rubber grommets ( Sway bar link bushings ) on the Hood pins. That trick will work at both high and low speeds. 77 and later 280Z's also added functional hood scoops in an effort to reduce engine bay temps. That was to reduce Vapor lock in the fuel rails, but it also bled of high pressure air and allowed more air flow through the radiator. Pontiac GTP hood vents look nice. Here are some on my Autocross Camaro. These were very effective at reducing under hood pressure and venting heat.

I would at least get the stock damper elastomer replaced. You don't want the 40 year old elastomer separating from the outer ring. There's a company in the USA that rebuilds them. Can't remember the guys name at the moment. I used to use a Tilton damper. Power Force makes an SFI rated damper ( MSA ) . BHJ ( $$$ ) and ATI also carry them for L-6. Don't buy an aluminium hub model. Make sure you get the proper bolt with an aftermarket unit. Some times the hub is thicker than stock.

You bet there is a weight difference. And a good balancing shop will always ask you for all of the components that you are going to use. They even calculate in a set percentage for the oil wedge in bif ends and the crank ends and galleries via Machinist tables. I've used Tri-Metal bearing on various builds including SBC and Datsuns. Vandervell's before Clevite bought them out ( was back in the early 80's ) Excellant bearings. But so are the OEM Nissan's.