Kevin.pk

Oddly enough, the guy explained how he bought a cruiser because he had a nasty wreck on a sport bike and damn near killed himself.

I agree completely, I would just prefer the car went to a proper gearhead if I ever choose to sell. I'm having too much fun driving the car as it sits that I do not intend to sell. The $15k offer is only a few grand above what I have invested in the car, but if I were to start another build I think I could probably do it all over again for less. I don't think I am ready for another build as of right now though. The guy sounded like he was doing alright financially and he was just having a mid life crisis.... he rolled up on a brand new Harley. Oh well, the guy gave me his number in case I change my mind.

Not sure if that is the owner but that car is owned by a member... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145901

Guy randomly approached me and offered me a sobering $15k for my car (pic in sig). I pondered the idea for a brief moment until he went on to tell me how he installed a "tornado air thingy" in his truck and how much quicker it was as a result. I have never considered selling my car and this encounter makes me all the more fearful of the things another owner would subject the car to. I don't think I could ever sell my pride and joy to someone who swears by the tornado intake. Sucks, that is probably the highest offer I will ever get for the car, if I were to ever sell it. So, question of the day..... Could you sell your car to blithering idiot?

I have 17x8's on my car and love them.

I almost painted my car a very similar color. I am almost regretting not now. That color is stunning. The car is going to look amazing!

you can change the selections in this product at MM to buy only the spacer..... for the stock 4 lug 240z, the spacers costs $110. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=60_61&products_id=48

eiither caliper should work fine. I think think some people may find the Pedal to be slightly mushy with the s12w without the 280zx master cylinder. I can't speak from personal experience because I used the s12+8 wide calipers. The s12w just have slightly more volume as a result of the four equal sized pistons. It may be more personal preference but i'm not sure, dont't take my word as gospel, you may want to do additional research to be certain. Be sure to read the link I posted in the note I mentioned in the first post, there are two different versions of the s12+8 caliper( one that works with the z31 vented rotor and one that works with the stock s30 rotors with stock 4 lug hubs). Hopefully these last two posts made sense,I'm posting from my phone.

Sounds interesting. Your comment just reminded me of the TTT upgrade and thought I would add it. The swap you are talking about sounds very interesting though and could be a strong solution over the old style of stub axles while still utilizing stock rear hub housing. If you happen to come Across where you saw it, be sure to post it.

Rearcont'd Option 4 Another option I left out is the Techno toy tuning entire rear end kit. This option is not for the faint of heart but should stand to be the last upgrade you do for the entire rear end of the car. It entails replacement of differential(and mounts), CV joints, hubs, shock tube, brakes, and coilovers. It essentially replaces everything except the lower control arms (and those are an available option as well.) This option uses a combination of precision made custom parts as well as readily available OEM pieces as well. More info is available HERE on hybridz and also at the Techno toy tuning website

I used a spacer but not for the purpose you stated. I had to use a 3/8" spacer to make my 17x8 mustang wheels even fit on the car with out hitting the spring perch.

I also took some other miscellaneous pics while I had everything apart. I'm not much of a photographer..... Rotor spacer for 5 lug Z31 Disk rotor. Rotor bolted to hub with spacer with what appears to be the stock 300zx seal. Entire assembly bolted to the car Stainless braided Brake line I also ordered from MM when I ordered the spacer. (not a necessity but a nice "while I'm at it" upgrade) S12+8 Wide caliper

Alright I did some quick measurements to verify the different offset.(For whatever reason I still have the stock 4 lug setup lying around). These measurement were taken from the back side of where the caliper bolts to, and to the front of the hub. This was the easiest measurement to gather with my equipment. Unfortunately the batteries in my digital caliper were dead so here are the results. Z31 hub S30 hub Note: I did not install the inner bearing as I didn't feel like pulling the seal out of the z31 hub to get the inner bearing. This measurement was taken with the hub almost flush(~1mm) against where the dust shield would bolt. These two measurements come out to ~4.2"(z31 hub) and ~3.4"(S30 hub). Take in to account that my s30 measurement may not be exact and you get roughly ~.75" So the Z31 Hub does in fact push the outer most part of the hub outward ~3/4"

I have gotten enough random PMs over the past year or two asking how to do the 5 lug swap that I was inspired to make a thread that I can simply point towards. There are a few different options to do a S30 5 lug swap from mild to wild. Front Note: When replacing any of these components, this may be a good time to replace other items such as bearing, seals, etc. Option 1: Z31 Hubs w/3/4" offset This is the route I chose to take. It is not anything new or innovative but it does the trick. Source:Modern-motorsports Shown: aluminum Z31 hub (available from MM) and Toyota s12w caliper Parts list: 5 lug z31 300zx Front hubs 5 lug z31 300zx rotors Front Calipers from Toyota 89-95 4WD Pickups (S12W) or 1986-88 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with vented rotor(S12+8) 35mm Rotor spacer (available from modern-motorsports.com) Notes: 1. This option will result in the offset of the wheel being pushed out 3/4" on either side. 2. Most of the items in this list can be purchased through modern-motorsports. I chose to piece it together myself and simply buy the spacers from him to save on shipping costs. 3. The stock dust shield may not fit with this brake package. I chose to simply remove mine rather than attempt to make them work. They may need to somply be trimmed to fit but i didn't even bother. 4. I have read about people using both the z31 and stock s30 inner wheel bearing seal. I don't recall which one I personally used. 5. The two different calipers listed both work. The S12W have 4 pistons all the same sized while the S12+8 pistons are staggered. I believe it is recommended to get the larger 280zx master cylinder when using the S12w calipers. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=574854&postcount=6 Option 2: Aluminum 5 lug Hub w/ Stock Offset Modern-motorsports makes an aluminum hub that is in the same offset as the stock hub but made of aluminum and has 5 lug instead of 4. Option 3: Aluminum 5 lug "Cobra" Hubs This option allows the use of brakes from a late model mustang to be bolted on, with some associated components also available from modern-motorsports.com. More info can be obtained at modern-motorsports website. Option 4: Arizona Z car http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html Rear Note: The stub axle can be a particularly big pain in the ass and taking them to a shop with a press is advisable for removal and installation if you are not equipped with the correct tools. I also highly advise you to go ahead and change the bearings at this time so as not to have to do it later after reassembly. Option 1a: Stock Stub axle drilled for 5 lug using one of the stock holes and 4 new holes drilled. I had this procedure done by a local machine shop. Option 1b: Modern-motorsports.com Can provide this service for you as well and install ARP wheel studs in place of your stock studs. Note: The ARP studs are a different size. Picture from modern-motorsports.com I am still running Drum brakes in the rear so my solution was to drill the new bolt pattern into the drums and simple put them back on. I believe the other option involves 240sx and/or 280zx components to install disk brakes. I do know that Modern-motorsports.com does has components to make the disk swap easier if you choose that route. I haven't done this procedure so I won't comment any further as to the components needed. Option 2: Arizona Z car http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html Option 3: MM Billet 4340 stub axle Modern motorsports offers a replacement stub axle that is stronger than your traditional axle as well as provides the change over to 5 lug. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=62 If there are any other options that I missed, feel free to add to the list. Hopefully I didn't botch this up too badly. I may do a step by step at some point for the z31 4x4 brake option when I get some spare time to tear down and take some pics.

I love the guy asking about the car towards the end. lol Congrats.

Differences in chassis.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123516 1976 is a 280z

here it is again for those that didn't get to see it before it was taken down by youtube..... http://www.break.com/index/raffaele-de-rosas-amazing-knee-riding-save.html

I was skeptical of this idea before, but i really dig how it is turning out.

I'm not too familiar with thaT model car but.... Are you sure there are no air pockets trapped in the system?

There are a few relays in that area. I know the fuel pump is wired through there. I believe there is an air conditioning relay as well. I know there are a couple more but I forgot what all was there as I haven't had that stock wiring configuration or relays in a while. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

WIRING IS TIRING. After neglecting to properly clean up the wiring when I first put in the V8, I finally decided to clean it up a bit for two reason. 1. It looked like a rats nest. 2. The wiring touched my passenger header and melted the plastic cover and a couple wires. The wires that did melt weren't actually attached to anything. That's when I realized I still had a lot of "spare" wiring in my engine bay from the L28. About 2/3 of the excess wires: I don't have many pics showing the ugly wiring because I avoided that when taking pics. Thus the following picture is all I have as a before shot. This is basically what I started with (with the additon of a couple relays): And this is the end result: I sent all the wiring for the Headlights, turn signal, and horn through the fenderwell. I would have routed the wiring along the lip at the botom of the inner fender but the tire comes very close to the chassis at the front and I didn't want any chance of rubbing. Therfore it is further up. You can also so where my battery cable routes in from the battery mounted in the rear of the car. The end result is absolutely worth it. It looks better, it's better organized, and I gained a little bit more knowledge of the electrical system in my car.

It's 350z chrome silver. The paint code is KY0.

I started trying to cover the plastic panels in the hatch. The quarter window piece has a little bit of exposed plastic but it was a first attempt and the underlying plastic is black so its less noticeable. I still need to work on the other side. It is black suede but the sunlight kind of throws the color off. It is the same material I used on the piece in front of the dash. Here's another pic of the overhead plastic piece where the dome light mounts.Its covered with headliner material.You can see it a little bit in the picture above as well where it meets the quarter window piece. I'm contemplating covering it in the same suede material.

Thanks Yasin! I never realized it before but, it's so fitting your name is max, lol. Always reminds me of Mad Max. I love this car though.

Mine works that way depending on how hard I shut it. If I shut it very gently the door lock knob doesn't pop up all the way and the door remains either locked or it pops just enough that if someone jiggled the handle it would open. If I close the door hard it pops all the way unlocked. It's really just hit or miss because of worn/misaligned parts I'm sure. Now, I know I can hold the handle up and close it and be sure the door is locked and secured.