cygnusx1

Wow. It went from needing a new paint job to showcar. Inspiring!

I'm in the wrong business.

I only saw a feasible belt driven turbo kit (supercharger) once in my life. It was made in Holland or Norway, I emailed the guy back and forth for details. He was using a timing belt pulley on the crankshaft to drive a sealed oil bath planetary "gearbox" mounted to the engine block. The reason I put "gearbox" in quotes is because it was really a friction wheel box; "gears with no teeth". Toothed gears would have far too much friction and generate far too much heat and noise at the extremely high RPMs of a turbo compressor. I think his kit was about $2000 but it made FAR more sense than this ebay hodge-podge. I am trying to find the link to the friction drive setup. It was a few years back and may be gone.

Hmm lemme do some figuring. Engine RPM - 5000 Alternator RPM - est. 10,000 Turbo RPM - est 20,000 Is 20,000 even close to being on a flow map? Not usually. Normal turbos start blowing in their optimal range at about 50,000 RPM. Not too mention...a decent running turbo JY motor is cheaper than that kit.

http://www.bmwusa.com/vehicles/futurevehicles/new3coupe/press.htm?source=3COUFMA If they price this right...

Very Dark Gray Metallic w/ black or silver detail stripes or flames w/ Dark wheels. or Ferrari Red w/ blackout trim w/Silver or black wheels. HOT!!!

A little grindage should work. You could also drop the mustasche bar and slot the holes up a little bit...maybe.

It's such a shame that driving is taken SOOOOO LIGHTLY in this country of ours. What a shame. Could have been worse, good luck with the fixup.

I posted this after I got my setup all done. I took the top washers out of the mustache bar bushings. This raised the diff by the thickness of the washers (3/16"?). It was enough to add more space. Mine never rubbed but it looked close so I deleted the upper washers. Oh by the way I run hard urethane bushings back there and from the looks of your ride...so should you

I have been busy at work and the weather has been absolutely PERFECT for tearing up the country roads. I didn't want to rip the car apart and start changing parts. I just quickly loosened up the front swaybar endlinks until I could spin the bushings by hand. It made a pretty large difference. It turns in a little slower but once it settles, it now feels like I can drive the rear end out with the gas pedal. Also, when I hit a bump in a turn, the car glides over it much smoother with less interruption to the driving line. Regular bumps are also transmitted less to the steering wheel. Overall, I like the change. I can probably add more turn-in by notching up the front Illuminas and dialing in a little toe-out. Thanks for the advice...it really works!!

Looks nice but those are tease photos!! Need BIGGER ones. Please!!

I am ignorant regarding the chemistry of tail pipe emissions. I think that rich will produce HC and lean will produce CO? Right? Wrong? Well anyhow, if the motor is burning some oil (lets say 1 quart every 2000miles for example) how does that effect emissions readings? Synthetic vs. Natural have any effect? This is purely a question for discussion. I am not having any troubles with my car.

Good Luck and send photos!!! Two garages? Your family will NEVER find you. NICE.

Update, the front tires did not wear evenly. As everyone suspected, without adding negative camber to the front, the outside edges wore out faster. Two track days and lots of twisty street driving took its toll on the outside edges. That just proves that the Z definitely needs more negative front camber the harder you drive it. It also, sort of explains, the push feeling in the car. Since removing the big heavy 280Z bumpers it seems to turn in much snappier and stick more neutral.

I designed the adapters for myself. I don't sell them. Modern Motorsports already has them if you need to buy them. I just made my print available for anyone with a lathe and mill. It works with my 280z swaybar arrangement which is up front of the diff. I have no idea if they work with the 240 swaybar setup. For extra swaybar clearance on my 280, I shortened the endlinks. The CV shafts definately compress pretty far with these spacers but they work. I don't know how much compression is left. The spacer has to be about 7/8" to 1" thick so figure on that when measuring.

Cool! So glad that everything fits. I bet your neighbors must love your Z. LOL. It sounds like something out of Road Warrior.

Evilc...don't you worry! When you come over to our company and intern with us this Summer, we will make you pay for those GravyTrain Z credits with boring, repetitive, intern work!! LOL. See you soon.

THANK YOU IT LOOKS AWESOME!! I think it will go on my dash with some gummy glue.

http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Scarab/January%201978%20Road%20and%20Track%20Article/

Actually everyone feels it a different way. I am very sensitive to instability in all my cars. Wether it's 80,90,100, or 150; lowering the car, tightening the suspension, and adding the front dam (open bottom), made a BIG difference in stability. BTW, I added the air-dam before all the suspension work and that alone made a noticeable difference in straight line stability at speed.

not my cup of tea either but it might be a turbo with a solid drivetrain.

I have no idea if this is still available but it could be good for someone if it is. http://www.erebunicorp.com/salecars.htm

I saw it at the NY Auto show last night. It's very nice and subdued. The interior is all black and the seats are leather. It looks very "sleeper". Personally I would go with a slightly larger trunk lip spoiler than what they chose. It's a bit under-scaled.

Rough generalization Tony D. The first step in diagnosing would be to identify a symptom and find a relation. Un-quantified "pressure in the tank" is enough information for someone knowledgable in the fuel system in question to diagnose whether or not a normal or abnormal condition exists. It's a simple question. A customer asks: "Is it normal to have pressure in the tank when opening the cap?" It's either "yes" or "no". There is no need to quantify the pressure at this point. If the answer was "no", we test, find, and treat the condition. If the answer was "yes" we go another route and if necessary, we then measure the pressure against a spec.