cygnusx1

It looks fine without the bumpers. I would just put a grill up front. I use the Magnaflow round muffler, straight through 2.5", only at the rear. It's the only muffler on the system. I ran 2.5" pipe all the way. Are you running 3"?

http://82.165.32.230/mcklein4/index.php?index=12&idb_cmd=show_collection&idb_collection_id=1551&idb_page=1 http://www.z-pointt.nl/eas2005/index.html

Ahhh the sweet sound of the Z. She's a beauty. Are you leaving the bumpers off? It looks killer! It sounds alot like mine. http://videos.streetfire.net/iPlayer.aspx?fileid=ECC8AED8-460E-4A89-98AB-F58B0345ABB6 http://videos.streetfire.net/iPlayer.aspx?fileid=46101CF4-9FAD-40C9-B425-43B4AD71475E

This is a photo from my commute to work this past week. Needless to say, I was not driving the Z. http://www.photoblink.com/imageview.asp?imageid=171596&cid=0&groupby=authorid&value=6974&page=1

http://www.streetfire.net will also host videos for free. So will google. Post it! My Z is sleeping too. I need a fix.

Hmm let me try again... HybridZ - Knowledge+Skill=Speed - The formula for speed. - Powered by creativity. - Handcrafted Horsepower.

HybridZ - "Does THIS void my warranty?" Why don't we mold an official "HybridZ" chrome emblem? It could be a new "brand" of car kinda like Scarab did way back when.

Just a long term update. I probably have about 4000+ miles and one track day on this conversion now and it is holding up great. I had some of the bolts loosen up on me but I didn't lock-tite them in the frst place--shame, shame, shame on me. With the lock-tite in place, I have had zero issues.

I saw plenty of that stuff going on in cars as a child. I grew up on a dead-end street in the Bronx in a second floor apartment with a perfect view into parked cars. That sort of free-entertainment was routine as far back as I can remember. I never minded it much. Of course, I was not forced to watch from the back seat and none of the players were related to me. Sometimes it was even two chicks!

A good instructor makes all the difference. I consider myself to be a good street driver, as does my insurance co. My first track day was extremely exciting but I also realized how slow I actually was. Making the transition from street to track is no small adjustment. It was not until I had a good instructor this year at Watkins Glen 2005 ZCCA that I really got to understand how to pick up the pace. I found this very interesting. I practiced Watkins Glen on my PC with a good driving simulator for about a month before going to the track. I was running consistent laps on the simulator as fast as I could possibly get. Then I went to the Glen and got a great instructor. I got many, many pointers from him about turn in, throttle positions, track out...for each corner. By the end of the day he was wishing I had a harness installed. When I returned home, I got back on the simulator and used all the pointers I learned at the track. Lo and behold, I shaved an easy 15 seconds off my previous laptimes on the simulator!

Now that we all have enough information here at HybridZ to understand how a turbo works, I want to give a brief synopsis of traditional vs sts arrangements. Both systems are better than not having anything. -Traditional systems have the 'potential' for more power because of the energy available near the point of combustion. -STS runs in a less aggressive environment so it may offer greater durability as a trade off for less potential power production.

The advantage of SLI is that you can buy a good videocard now and add a twin in about a year when the price of the card has dropped. The graphics performance of my PC nearly doubled when I added the second card a year later for almost no cost. We like modding, tweaking, and upgrading here, that's why I chose SLI. You are right that a single "supercard" can outperform some SLI setups but you can do SLI in stages to save dough. Also how cool does "DUAL VIDEO CARDS" sound. hehe.

OMG--If you have some graphics muscle and a force feedback wheel in your machine, You absolutely must track down a copy of Richard Burns Rally. I found mine on ebay. The physics are absolutely educational. This is not a game. Anyone looking for a game will play this for about 1/2 hour and then give up. If you want to learn how to drive fast and hard, this is it. The school is excellent and the details of the game are phenominal. They didn't miss anything. Check out some of the movies and screenshots for RBR at: http://www.bhmotorsports.com/RBR/movies http://www.bhmotorsports.com/RBR/screenshots PIC: http://www.bhmotorsports.com/sims/RBR/screenshots/298.jpg Demo is here: http://www.bhmotorsports.com/RBR/downloads/3733 GTR FIA is also worthy of any true DRIVING enthusiast. It will teach you tracks and will let you experience some nice cars. There are tons of cars and tracks to download also. Find them with google.

Ooh Ooh Ooh..driver sims!! GET Richard Burns Rally and FIA GT Racing. PC: Get a motherboard that will support Dual Core Processors, SLI (dual video card option), AMD Socket 939 Processors, and Dual-Channel RAM, and at least 500watts of power from an SLI rated power supply. start at http://www.newegg.com they make it easy to build a parts list. If you want me to spec out a system for you email me. I have built many PCs recently fro friends that are into gaming and simulators. You can build a KILLER system for about $900. I learned to drive Watkins on GTR FIA

Meteorology and Turbochargers have alot in common.

My Toy: 260rwhp/300rwt for now. Daily Driver: 265HP flywheel.

I'll say it again. Heat (from burning fuel) expands the gasses. Heat does NOT spin the turbo. The expanded gasses moving between two states spin the turbo. The spinning of the turbo is purely mechanical in the form of vectors on the blades. Yes, I studied thermo, in fact it was my strongest subject. Here is a fun question that a professor asked to demonstrate that we understood a closed system. If you have a fridge in a room and you leave the fridge door open, does the room get warmer, colder, or stay the same? Why?

Not quite. Well, yes and no. The energy is in the form of the heat but the turbo spooling is all mechanical. Meaning that it's the mechanical force of the gasses against the blades that cause it to spin.

Heat won't make a turbo spool. Take it off and put it in an oven at 800 deg-f. Did it spin? No. Blow compressed air into the housing. Did it spin? Yes. Increase the amount (Volume) of air you blow at it. It spins faster and reacts more quickly. ENGINES: Air in = Air out Volume In < Volume out. Why? Because we expanded the air by adding heat in the form of burning fuel. More volume makes faster spool. ******************************************************* EDIT: To make it more on-topic. So, to spool a turbo more quickly, without changing the turbo, you need to make more heat or retain more heat (expanded gasses) into the turbo. You need to make more air to flow through the engine. You need to have plenty of room for the turbine to exhale. Meaning a well designed downpipe. Although this is slightly less of an issue because we are talking about low rpms when we talk about spoolup so exhaust back pressure isn't really an issue yet. The CORRECT solution is to apply the "correct" turbo(s) for the engine and its intended use.

When I was at Limerock Park, the recirulator hose from my blowoff valve popped off. That caused it to run real rich on decel. My friend was chasing me around the track in his STI and got freaked out by my flamethrower tailpipe.

Totally believable power. Mine makes 260rwhp 300ft-lb, without programmable efi, stock injectors, lower compression, and 120K miles on the $500 junkyard motor. Nice numbers loose.

Simple answer. Leave everything on a 280ZX motor stock and turn the boost to 10psi. You will be OK but you will reduce the life of the turbo a little. Later, add NOT a blow-off valve BUT a recirculating-valve so that you pose less stress on the turbo and you maintain proper fuel mixtures under all conditions. (with stock EFI and AFM) A blow-off valve will throw air away tha has already been acounted for by the AFM. Not good. A recirc-valve is the same as a blow-off valve EXCEPT it dumps excess air back into the compressor intake to be used again. NOTE: The stock turbo motor uses a spring check valve on the intake manifold to "simulate" a recirc-valve.

Nissan put a vapor cannister on that steel fuel line on the right front inner fender. Obviously, that was a place to vent vapors from the tank. Nissan, I assume, intended it to vent only under certain conditions to comply with fed emmisions. They controlled 'when' the tank was vented into the carbon cannister with a vacuum controlled valve on the cannister. I assumed, and I could be wrong, that once you remove the carbon cannister and the valve, leaving the steel vent line open to the engine bay, the tank would be vented to atmosphere full time. This would never allow pressure to build in the tank....apparently that Nissan vent line is either clogged or has another valve in it closer to the tank.