cygnusx1

I have two right seats in my 240 and it crabs left on Sundays.

Make sure the fuel level is exact on the leaky one, make sure the floats are set with both high and low limits, make sure the needle valves shut tight, and make sure the screws or springs that retain the choke are snug. Â My Webers also leave traces of fuel on the upwind end of the barrels, sometimes noticed after a drive. I found snugging the choke retainer screws improved the weeping a bit.

 And he survived. Since no fire was evident, I will assume he was driving the safer model, the Shatterbird version. http://www.wdtn.com/...-caught-on-tape I like the reporter's comment: "…they are investigating what role, if any,"speed", played in the crash."  Â

Awesome! Â Congrats. Â I can't wait to see the progress.

Note this point.  Carb synching is not critical to a good running set of webers.  It mainly effects idle smoothness and a tiny bit of throttle response smoothness ONLY coming off idle.  It's over-talked about. IMHO. Having said that.  If the carbs are not synched, you will try to cure a rough idle by fussing with the idle-mixture-volume-screws (lets call them IMV screws    ) and that is WRONG.  Those screws effect idle, and much more beyond idle.

I don't think there were many comments about the interior layout and seating as it relates to driving. Â I wonder if they were omitted to strictly focus on the performance specs. Â It would be interesting to see how they compare in that arena. Â I suspect BMW spent some of the extra $$$$ on interior quality, ergonomics, electronics, and a little $ on the propeller and M badging. Â For example a good seat can make you faster. It's not fair to judge a car strictly on performance and then look at price differential...something has to give. Â I don't mean to call the comparison unfair. Â It's totally unbiased and perfectly fair, for a track comparison. Â No flaming please...This was just a thought that popped into my head as I sit here in the hospital next to my wife who contracted severe food poisoning 4 days ago.

.....The screws that adjust the throttle plate stopping position can be called idle speed screws because they adjust the volume of air allowed past the plates at idle. Â They should be adjusted as per your quote above using the progression holes as a guide, and then fine tuned +/- 1/4 turn to get your flow synchs right. Â I worked hard to research test and write this. Â It works. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/28318-weber-jetsall-who-live-for-their-triples-please-read-this/page__view__findpost__p__863257

 The screws on the back of the barrels are idle mixture "volume" screws. (one per barrel).  They adjust the amount of "emulsion" that flows through the idle circuit.  Â

Great video. Â I wish more car comparisons were done like that, rather than the usual, internet pissing contests. Â Congrats to Ford for coming along the right path.

If I remember correctly, i ditched those clips after my 280Z was painted. Â I didn't want the clips chipping the new paint and initiating rust. Â I think the rails clip on the roof just fine without them. Â Can anyone back me on this?

Sounds like my car. Â I just learned to drive it smoothly. Â Rev match, heel and toe, smooth throttle and clutch movements. Â My passengers never hear the clunk, unless I let them drive. Â Then they say WTF was that! I blame it on their driving skills.Â

 Rarely is anything terribly wrong with the EFI unless you had a fire, got rodent damage, or got flooded.  Corrosion/connectors/bad grounds are usually the major culprits. Each part can be tested for function right from the ECU connector, with the aid of a factory manual, some good probe pins, and a multi-meter.  The injectors and fuel pressure are pretty easy to validate as well. Even a spare brain can be bought used for very little cash. Â

Here are actual sales figures based on publicly accessible numbers. http://www.collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/Datsun/model/240Z/years/1970-1973/

 My 72 240Z came in parts, and I paid via paypal.  The DMV wanted a bill of sale to tax me for what I paid for the car.  Since I didn't have the bill of sale with me, they offered to look up the New York State book value and charge me taxes on that. I figured about $3000 or so, but when the lady got off the phone with the capital, she said that the car was listed as $12,000 value in the books.  Needless to say I paid less than a quarter of that so I went home to "get" the bill of sale.  Â

Foil backed fiberglass sheeting.

Like a nice day in TX. Â Love the t tops.

Love the look of the louvers in the hood/bonnet!   With the little air dams I added in front of my vents, the yarn stood up almost 45 degrees.   I am sure there is hot air being pulled out of the engine bay now.  I also went a head and wrapped my intercooler pipes and began planning some aero treatments to the grill area.Â

I taped some yarn on the screens today and went for a drive. Â The yarn does indicate that there is flow up and out of the screens. Â The 2" yarn strands lifted about 1/2" off the screen at speeds of about 40+. Â I also noticed that with the car parked, idling, with the e-fan blowing, the air came out of the vents pretty hard and made the yarn flutter. To create more of a vacuum over the screens, I added a small "air-dam" just ahead of the screens. Â This should kick the airflow up over the screen and draw more hot air out of the bay. I will test it more later. Â I may be pissing in the ocean, but it keeps me out of trouble. Â

I installed a screen in them tonight. Â I really would have liked slat louvers like the 77 hood vents but fabrication of those would require some welding and a lot of time. Â Since I don't really weld...

Yeah I didn't want to shell out the bux for louvered inspection lids or a vented hood painted to match, so I tried this. Â Punching holes to let the bay vent into the wheel wells might be next. Â Little by little. Â I plan on doing a yarn test this week to see if the windshield pressure or the under hood pressure wins the flow battle. Â My front end and splash pan are aerodynamically stock asides from the air dam.

With the turbo making the engine bay so hot and the fact that there is a high pressure area under the hood at speed, I figured I would try this mod. Â I picked up a spare set of inspection lids and did some arts and crafts. I test drove it tonight, but without yarn to test the airflow and without a thermometer under the hood, I have no hard data. Â However, when I parked it, tons of heat could be felt rising out of the holes. Â I hope it also vents some high under hood pressure for reduced lift but I doubt it will have much effect there. Â I plan on adding black screens or grills of some sort to fill in the holes. Â I was also thinking that the drivers side one could alternatively be plumbed as a turbo cold air intake.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8CrvGndKzE

Go with what most of your friends shoot so you can swap lenses.  Everything else is mostly minor differences between the two, in the long run.  I find that keeping a good point and shoot that can do HD video in the camera bag is also very handy (Panasonic for that one).  Nice photos by the way.  Oh yeah and Canon once sponsored Z cars.  I shoot Canon.

I think you should cut the roofs off, paint them all in "Elvis" colors and use them in the parades. Â Great score!

OK I win! Â Who can catch a flying dove with their front license plate? 40mph....poor dove. Â A moment of silence........................ahh the only good reason for front plates has been discovered.