cygnusx1

I have seen ripples in the sheet metal around the engine bay before. It could be factory normal. Pics?

My friend since third grade, who went to school with me for many years, now works down at NASA on the shuttle payload/packaging designs. I think he can get the employee discount. I'll see what I can do Tony. If you part it, I get dibs on the tiles. I would love to cover my T3 turbine with shuttle tiles.

me? 300-330hp with no clutch slamming. I bet she will take a lot more.

Wow, this belongs in the favorite cars thread! The ONLY thing I would have done differently would have been to black out the back end of the fuel cell and brackets.

Yes, I have done that. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=1081787&postcount=59

Put some compressed air into the spark plug hole to find the leak. It sounds like you will need a head rebuild if one of your valve guides dropped chunks into the cylinder. Might even have a bent valve.

You can make those from two chrome mixing cups found behind any bar. http://www.kegworks.com/product.php?productid=173320&featured=

Sticking valves.

I bought stock in Ford about six months ago when it was dirt cheap. I agree with Woldson!! GO KEN!!!

They certainly showed their true colors.

Yeah nice. Would also like to study the .msq if ya don't mind! Junkyard longblock....with you all the way!

Since I will be installing a 280Z motor in my 240Z, I will be adding an electric pump to feed the webers. Mechanical would be easier if the motor already had it, and I figured it would work fine. I plan on mounting the pump by the tank. In the engine bay, the stock 240Z fuel supply line will lead directly to the carbs. Down by the passengers frame rail, I will "T" off the supply line into the regulator to feed the overflow back into factory return line, which is right there already. This will set up a "dead ended" line to the carbs which should be fine. I run this exact line route in my megasquirted 280Z Turbo at 36psi. Obviously this will be around 3psi. Right now the Webers are in the waiting room, rebuilt, waiting for the car build to catch up.

I like the position of the lash pads where they are on your photos. Looks good to me. The closer to the pivot, the higher the lift you get from the cam. I set all of mine as close as possible to the pivot, running a stock cam. I actually manually filed a couple of the lash pads carefully to get them dialed in.

Try using Vimeo.com. Less exposure but better crowd and quality. When is her first album coming out? Requests? OK how about this classic. "Somebody To Love" Jefferson Airplane

12volt LED strips from a PC connected to the side markers.

The left tank looks identical to my 1972 240Z tank (except for the lack of fittings on top which David had removed). It's also the same as the tank that I bought from Joe, which supposedly came from his yellow 240Z. However, I think Tony might be right in that the 240Z tank has two different sized pipes for supply and return lines. The middle one shown has equal sized pipes. I need to look at my (Joe's) 240Z tank again to confirm. The tank in my 76 is like the one on the right. It's for the full size spare chassis. 77 and 78 tanks have a thicker main body because the space saver spare allowed for a shallower tire well and a thicker tank. In Joe's attic there is a tank with a top mounted sender unit. What Z is that from?

Man of a thousand parts....maybe more! LOL. Let me know what I owe you. Thanks.

I just need the cap. Anyone got a decent one?

Raw fuel on the sensor will show lean. But that because raw fuel has no interest in oxygen. In other words, raw fuel does not want to react with O2, so the sensor see no demand for O2. A rich condition also dumps CO into the exhaust which in and of itself is combustible. CO will react with any O2 that might be introduced through valve overlap and any other Oxygen that can be robbed from other agents in the exhaust...like nitrogen dioxide. You might be seeing some "catalytic burn" in the exhaust turbine...without actually having the catalyst there.

You can check that stuff without pulling the dash. The car has such low miles that I would not be too worried about those items too much. Pad and tape the dash up when it goes for paint. Less risk than pulling the dash out. Besides, you can pull the dash after the car is running IF you have to. IMHO. I dont think you need to strip the interior on this car. It's pretty virgin.

Why are you pulling the dash?

What does an O2 sensor (UEGO) read in a ZERO oxygen environment. I think the sensors read "affinity for O2", not actually the O2 content. Just a question. I like the theory of slow propagation causing high exhaust temps.