cygnusx1

Good luck with the repairs! Build yourself some wind turbine generators and an offroad land yacht to cruise the land under wind power. Take advantage of the micro-climate. BTW, there is a UFO in the first photo.

SaWEEEEEET!

"L28ET" is pretty generic. There are all forms of L28ET that can be quick or can be "ludicrous" fast depending on their details. Not all are created equal...unless it was bone stock.

Well, here we are a couple of weeks later, or so it seems, and I have some progress already. Picked up the set of Webers that Stephen "stprasinz" was selling here a few weeks ago. I drove up to meet him at the Roscoe Diner on Rt. 17. I have stripped the carbs down to their bare skivies and cleaned them. I am now waiting for the rebuild kits. Here are some photos. I also stripped the front end off of the car, degreased all the suspension and steering parts, and painted everything. I am waiting for the new set of Tokico springs and HP's. All the poly bushings are ready to go in. I can't believe how light the 240Z chassis is built compared to the 280Z. It's built more like one of my RC planes; light! I have the new carpets in, Clive stopped by and dropped off a nice set of tail lights for the car, and I will give him the nice sports mirrors in exchange. I still need to come up with a STOUT Weber linkage. I hate the linkage that came with most of the Weber triple kits. I am thinking billet aluminum Next week I am going to reupholster the seats. Then, I'll rip out the entire rear suspension and drivetrain, after I get the front end back together. The rear running gear will also get stripped, painted, new poly bushings, new seals, and get re-installed. It is SOOOOO nice not having to worry about rust/body work. I HIGHLY recommend you search far and wide for a rust free car before starting your next project. It's worth the extra bux. My dad has also stepped in and really taken this project by the horns. He is one of those old-timers that can't or won't sit still. Every morning, he stops by and asks if I have any more stuff for him to do. It's great to see my dad so involved. He is a gearhead at heart but since his retirement he has had trouble finding projects to get his hands dirty. I can help him get dirty now!

Prison sex?

Here is Tommy Sullivan's survivor Z.

Just buy one that is already restored and make it yours. Even if it's not up to your standards yet, it will be much cheaper to make a few small changes.

Are the lash pads case hardened? I needed a thinner one for my P90 when I was setting up the pattern, so I filed it with a hand file to take off a few thousandths in the groove. I didn't have any other pads to use. I have about 8000 miles on it now and it still holds the lash setting. So if you have one that is too thick, I think it's OK to file it a little, very carefully and measure with a micrometer as you go. Correct me if I did a bad thing...

A truck with 40HP? Might as well ride a motorcycle. A bike will have just as much load hauling capacity as a 40hp truck, and equal or better mileage.

Where did you get that gaming seat?

You could even use a rubber "washer" in between the strut tower and the hat to absorb some NVH. BTW Yes, the eccentric LCA bushings give you about 1 degree negative camber. If you lower the car another 1/2" from stock, you pick up another 1/2 degree negative camber because the control arms extend outward as they get closer to horizontal.

Make sure you test the wipe pattern after the install because they probably are thinner than they were originally, after you take off the rust.

Your truck eats ice cream?

"Layers of sheet metal", is nothing new to an S30. Nissan did it all over the place. Why can't we? Thanks, Zzeal.

That looks amazingly solid. With the cage and the boxed in rails, you have to be at least 75% more rigid than stock. I tried to find the "Endura" liquids but all I get is a wax based grease, that probably won't spray too well. I am looking for something to prep some of the seams and possibly inside the rails of my new 240Z with.

I wonder if you could just mold a urethane part that could replace the rubber part. The old rubber would need to be cut or burned out similar to the mustache bar procedure, and then the urethane part could be installed. I haven't had one of these apart in quite a long time, so I don't have a handle on the function/construction of the beast. I will have my 240Z ones out in a few days though. I think there might be a problem with securing a urethane insert into the metal shell. Good idea though...with the price of the stock ones, it is time for a better one to come along at a lower cost.

If the squirt is timed with the opening of the valve it makes a difference. It is less so if the injector is squirting at the back of a closed valve.

It definitely smooths out the idle and cleans up the exhaust a little. No doubt. BTW my old plugs were misfiring, which is why I put in the new ones. There were no improvements until I side gapped the new ones. This probably has a nice positive effect on our cars combustion process, especially at low flow conditions, due to the antiquated combustion chamber design. Besides it doesn't take a genius to see that the spark is totally covered by the metal bar on a stock plug. Isn't that kind of strange? One of the big automakers is experimenting with laser ignition. They focus laser beams on a spot in mid-air, dead center in the combustion chamber, so that the explosion is symmetric about the piston head. Yes it does matter where and how the gas ignites. http://www.es.anl.gov/Energy_systems/distributed_energy/documents/laser%20ignition_single%20cylinder%20studies_011006.pdf

Let me join the party. Here is my latest guess.

Moderators are too busy moderating to work on their cars.

My routine is to spray all aluminum parts with a light coat of cast-aluminum spray paint. You can get aluminum flake brake caliper spray paint that looks as good, if not better, than freshly cast aluminum, and it won't ever pit or discolor for a long time.

I found my max timing by listening for ping and blowing up head gaskets. I still don't know what cell I was in when the head gasket blew. I looked at what others were using for a max advance and took an average. Then I subtracted about 5 degrees from that number, programmed it in and slowly advanced the map until it felt faster, better throttle response, and ultimately I blew a head gasket and backed the whole table down again. Now I am inching back up again. What I need is a slap in the face, and an appointment on a dyno that can hold a load point. Idle timing is in your factory manual. I program all non-boosted regions as if it were a counterweighted distributor advance. Simplistic. I only vary advance with RPM, not vacuum. Under boost, I do the same thing except pull timing for every PSI of boost across the board. I have plenty of room for improvement but cannot do much better without the dyno. There is no right answer here. You won't find a hard fast recipe for your exact application.

I gave you a good rule of thumb in the last post to get you started, besides, you will never get a perfect timing map without a good dyno and a good tuner. Every engine is different.

Very nice!!! 1000% improvement, and very crafty too.

I sleep in the garage now.