cygnusx1

I imagine that a recirculating fuel rail would flush fairly well just from the fuel pump turning on with the ON key when MS first fires up. The injectors could still be in vapor lock. I can also try increasing the priming pulswidth at hot starts. I don't think the pretty fuel rails are any worse than the factory rails as far as vapor lock. Both rails have nearly the same problems. However, the factory rail is recirculated. This heats up the fuel in the tank during long drives though. Mounting the IAT sensor in the manifold will allow you to better tune for over-hot conditions. My IAT sensor is in the IC pipe before the TB. It doesn't get nearly as much heat soak there. Thus I can't use it to correct AFR's as much. The real solution is to insulate, recirculate, the fuel rail, and keep the engine bay temps down however you can.

The inner tie rods are actually spring loaded. I took mine apart a couple of years ago because there was some play in one of them. I can't remember exactly how I did it, but I increased the preload inside the inner joint a little. You may be right that it's time to replace them. I will check them tonight.

I put the Sportmax wheels on my car with new BFG Comp T/A KD tires on it over a year ago. They were mounted and balanced by a local shop I trust. They were silky smooth for about 10K miles. Little by little I began to get a bit of steering wheel shake on the highway. I rotated the tires front to back this Winter but I still have the shakes up front. It now starts very lightly at about 40mph and increases in frequency and intensity as speed climbs. Around highway curves with medium and high G loads, the vibration pretty much goes away and comes back on the straights. I just brought the car to the same guy that mounted them and he said they were still all balanced. He only added a tiny bit of weight to one of the rear wheels which made no difference to me. He also inspected the tires and wheels for bubbles or visible runout but didn't notice any. My brake rotors are new and dead straight. I have a whole thread about making them perfect with a dial indicator. My only ideas are to add some negative toe up front. I run 0 toe right now. I also want to run a dial indicator on all of the rims for runout. I am also going to check wheel bearing play and for any play in the front end. Any other ideas?

Good call. I ran into the same thing on my swap.

I had this problem today. After parking the car for about 15 minutes with the hood closed, I went out and measured the rail temp, the intake runner temps. Wow. The fuel rail was 130-140F and the intake runners were about 170-180F! I tried to start it but it took several tries. It finally started and barely idled at 18:1 AFR. It took about 5 minutes of rough idling and revving with the hood open to get the normal AFR's back. The IAT was reading reasonably low temps less than 1 minute after the restart. Note: my fuel rail is not a loop. If it were a loop, the hot fuel would flush out much more quickly. I glued a sheet of reflective-backed fiberglass to the aluminum fuel rail and wrapped some of the AN fittings in the fuel lines with the insulation. I will test again during the week.

Wow old thread.... When I took out the "frozen" line lock, I squeezed the button in the vice and the fluid squirted back out the ports. The new line lock has been fine ever since. With the full Wilwood AZC kit on a 280Z you need to use a 15/16" ZX master and leave all the original brake stuff in place....the safety and factory prop valve included. The rear AZC brakes grab much stronger than the stockers and need to be proportioned down with pressure. Dave at AZC told me this, so I did it this way. The Willwood prop valve is now set somewhere in the middle of it's range. If you remove the 280Z prop valve, the Willwood would propably be all the way at the end of it's adjustment range.

To get the correct answer you need to find out if anyone has weighed a clean 240Z shell vs a clean 280Z shell. The 280Z has a lot more stuff you can take off, other than the bumpers. It's all about the accessories, HVAC, noise control, emissions, door design, harnesses, electronics......... Shell to shell would be the only fair comparison. Me, I turn up the boost to forget about a few extra pounds.

My car is alway finished....in the Springtime. By the time Autumn rolls around, the upgrade wheels start turning...and it goes back on the jackstands for Winter. Seasons of the Z. - (Spring) Finished - (Summer) Enjoy - (Fall) Plan the next mods - (Winter) Jackstands Repeat for as long as you can. There is ALWAYS room for improvement. This weekend I drove my Z about 200 miles to nowhere. There is NO better therapy.

Measure the pulley and the crankshaft nose. Or just measure the pulley that came off and make the new one the same bore size. Of course you will need a hone or a lathe. Nothing is ever easy anymore! May better luck come your way!

Civil Engineer....as opposed to an uncivil one.

I designed automated packaging machines out of College and then moved into a production environment supporting a major manufacturing plant by designing, specifying, and purchasing high speed packaging and automated assembly equipment. Now I just design consumer goods, mostly working on innovation and "the next big thing" type of stuff. I use a ton of CAD and my imagination. Unfortunately, it's not car, planes, or gun related. If it were, it would be a bit more exciting. Sitting in an office/lab all day makes me wish I had gone the CE or Architectural route.

At about 1:10, I was climbing a pretty steep hill so there was a good load on the rear end. You can clearly hear the normal gear noise at that point. At least, the gear noise seems normal and expected with poly mounts all around. If you've ever been in a solid mounted diff car, you know what gear noise sounds like. The OBX is what I think is making the clunk. I am going to borrow some CV shafts from EvilC to eliminate that possibility. The humming is probably from slightly wavering backlash around the ring due to machining tolerances of the OBX.

My neighbor, who does not own ANY vehicles with less than 400hp let me drive his SRT8 jeep. It dynoed 460 without the juice and add 100 more with the juice. I drove it without the juice. Surprisingly fast, and excellent Brembo brakes. It actually handles a little bit! It launches like a pebble out of a slingshot. It did not feel nearly as heavy as it looked. Very nice vehicle...as long as you don't own the fuel tank.

Here is a video I took this afternoon. Listen for me getting on and off the throttle to demonstrate the clunk. It sounds much more like a pop in the video. It's a much deeper clunk than it sounds in the video.

- The backlash at my ring gear was about 0.005" checked in the same manner as the factory manual. With a dial indicator on the edge of a ring tooth with the pinion clamped. - The satellite gears in the OBX will kick back and forth in their bores in response to decel/accel. That's the whole key to a torsen diff. The OBX allows quite a bit of room for these to move. -There is quite a bit of lash in between the center barrel gears and the satellite gears. (just shake the OBX unit and listen). I did not measure this lash but it's there. If I hadn't preloaded the center gears, I would be able to feel the lash by turning the half shafts forwards and backwards together. -The fit of my 280ZXT half shaft splines into the OBX is also somewhat sloppy and is part of the clunk I hear. I don't see any wear on the splines. The original stubs were also sloppy in the OBX, BUT they were also sloppy in the original diff center. So I don't think it's unusually loose CV axle splines at the diff. Make sense? Basically I don't suspect an unusually loose spline because that play has always been there with both diffs and both axle types. I am going to setup the camera in the car tonight and try to capture the sound. The gear noise is wonderful while driving along steadily. Just a distant whine of diff gears, like a good classic sports car should have. The clunk is a bit unnerving and it makes me self concious of my shifting. I have to be so precise with my rev matching so I don't get the clunk treatment.

OK I drove the car for about 20 miles since all of my upgrades including the OBX. I can tell you that the OBX definitely drives both wheels under power. You can feel the tires biting at the road instead of one just breaking loose like it used to. The car turns in just as good as it did before. During normal driving, you wouldn't know anything changed. The only thing you notice is a clunk when going from decel to accel. It's a pretty loud metallic thump in the rear. (I am using the RT mount) I am almost positive now that it comes from the backlash in all the internal OBX gears, and from the free-float movement of the "barber-pole" gears around the perimeter of the OBX. When you go from decel to accel, all the planetary gears need to shift in their pockets from outside to inside. If I remember correctly, there was about 1/8"+ of side play in those gears. In retrospect, I might have measured the exact side to side clearance of those gears and dropped in a bellville washer on the outer ends of each one, to preload them to the accel side. This in theory would eliminate the majority of the accel/decel slop in the differential. The downside is that the washers would act sort of as little clutches and may wear out....then again, maybe they would hold up, since they only work hard when the wheels are spinning at very different speeds, which is almost never. The idea is to preload the center gears OUTWARDS and preload the perimeter gears INWARDS. Go ahead and grab your OBX unit. Shake it, you will hear the perimeter gears rattling in their pockets. They have no preload and are free to slam back and forth due to excessive clearances. This is why the OBX is a low cost unit. It works, but with a price.

One of these days, I need to pull out my HT text book and figure out how much heat is transferred to the airflow inside of a warm pipe 2.5" pipe per inch of distance. I don't think it's that much, but I need the math to prove it. A smooth pipe with a large diameter relative to it's length, with relatively high flow velocities, can't possibly be an efficient heat transfer device.

I have the same pump and it has about 15K miles on it. It is definitely louder than when it was new. It makes a hammer/rattle sound, almost like a cavitation, but I am getting good flow confirmed by my AFR's. I thought it could be the fuel damper gone bad but I have no way to confirm either. It is actually becoming annoying. I was thinking of shopping for a replacement. Let me know what you find. I can't think of any easy tests other than flow testing on a bench at various head pressures.

Here is a screenshot of the Z coming up on the Ferrari.

Go over to http://www.vimeo.com. Much larger capacity and quality.

I have done this. Clear out a large area...I mean CLEAR. Take off the parts one by one and lay them down next to eachother in the order they come off. Replace the old worn parts on the bench layout. Assemble in reverse order.

Funny and sad. Just get the racket boots at your local picket pull. Honestly, I think it's just a language barricade thing. Not a bad deal.

Spacers Here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=982194&postcount=54 Washers: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=786643&postcount=13