cygnusx1

I usually wirebrush the heads to clean them up. You can also soak them in a can of parts cleaner overnight. Sometimes, I will stand them up through a piece of cardboard and paint the heads. To get really exotic, go to a good hardware store and get stainless steel replacements or buy a stainless bolt kit from one of the online resources. If you want originality, you might even have them cad plated, perhaps? I'm not really knowledgeable on the fastener coatings used by the factory. Zinc? Just be aware that after you wirebrush them, if you dont treat them, they do rust. Put a little silicone grease on the threads before you assmble them again. This will make your life much easier in the future.

This is an old thread. 2005! Anyhow, I did the front of my WRX and the lower front fenders of my Z with the 3M film. The larger the section, the more difficult. I suggest starting with some roll-stock instead of a pre-cut kit. Cut off some pieces from the roll stock, trim them to fit a small, specific area, and apply them. Start with sections no larger than 8" x 5" to practice with and then you can tackle larger sections. The hard part is working out the air bubbles without over stretching and over working the film. Follow the directions, and work wet, very wet. For very large sections, two people would be a huge plus. http://www.xpel.com

Look at the thumb I added above. I would also go with blacked out trim and bumpers in CF.

I do like the red that the car is now (brick red sorta). The one in the avatar. It's not even a common red. It would look good with black hood and ZG's. Like This.

I have an aftermarket billet rail, a high performance Walbro 255lph pump, and I wrapped the fuel rail in two layers of foil backed fiberglass. I still get vapor lock. After I wrapped the rail, I delayed the vaporlock from about 15 minutes to about 25 minutes on average (NY Spring temperatures). I suspect that the exposed injector bodies are the culprit. My next project, today, is to wrap the injector bodies with little foil/glass sleeves. I wil let you know how that goes. Before you change anything else. T in a fuel pressure gauge, run the car, shut it off and make absolutely sure that the pressure stays in the fuel system for at least 30 minutes++

Nissan added vented hoods, heat shields, fuel rail/injector blower, I think they might have even wrapped a few rails with insulation. On another note. As per TonyD, make SURE that your fuel rail pressure stays up for at least an hour after you shut off the car. Bad check valves in the fuel pump are common. Mine failed at about 110K miles. The valve can be replaced and the pressure will keep the fuel from boiling easily.

Nice collection of Z photos that are mostly used in a Z Appreciation Thread over at vwvortex forums. Really nice cars here. Some are ours. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v341/joshpettry/Car/Asia/Nissan/Z_Car/ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3735606

Many of my friends daughters have become car crazy just like them.

Congrats! I am now 2.3 years into our first child and it has been a huge, life changing time. More work than I ever imagined and at the same time more rewarding than I thought possible. He had his first ride in the Z three weeks ago. He always asks to go out in the Z now. He yells, "zig-zag" (go around corners) and "more turbo dad!" (to hear the blow off valve). Some people fear change. Not us HybridZ'ers!

I saw a few patrol cars with this system, cruising through town the other day. I had heard about it but never saw it. Pretty amazing. Let's keep the politics out of this and look at the positives. Imagine your car is stolen. That's when you really want this technology on your side!

Inside the lower end of your pinion housing, there should be an oil seal about 1/2" inside.. That will keep the oil from wicking into the speedo cable. One o-ring and one oil seal is all there should be in the whole assembly. One of these http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SDC02E/20-1552 and one of these http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SDC02E/20-1550

There is an o-ring on the outside of the tranny cog and an oil seal inside the pinion body. You can get both of them through Nissan or MSA. I use a drill bit to get the old seal out of the pinion body. Turn a sharp bit, by hand, into the seal and yank it out. Use a bit that is a bit smaller than the ID of the pinion body.

My Walbro pump is mounted inches from the tank outlet. The pump is about level with the bottom of the tank but it still makes gurgling sounds. So far it's working, but I dont like the gurgling. It might be feeding bubbles to my injectors which is NG.

Two smaller turbos will spool much quicker than a single large turbo. Less lag.

So far I have had no issues with vimeo.com. Youtube has barked at me a few times. I like the idea of allowing the owner of the music that I choose for my video, to advertise themeselves on the webpages containing my video. One hand washing the other. Why can't we all play together nicely!?

The OBX unit uses whatever ring and pinion from an R200 that you want. It won't effect your gear ratios. You pick the ring you want to bolt onto it. Usually, you use whatever ratio is already in the rear. Re-gearing for a specific application is another topic alltogether.

Yeah. Let us know if the new pum fixes it. The last thing I want to happen to me is to get stranded with a flatbed fee back home because of the damn fuel pump. Maybe I should keep a backup one in the car. How is your ground wire?

Yellow looks fast.

Isn't this the second Walbro 255lph pump problem within the last few weeks? Who had the similar problem in the recent thread? I need to hook a P gauge up to mine so I can watch it while driving. Mine began sounding funny sometime last Summer. AFR seem OK with mine and it never dies....knock on wood. ...try running some temporary wires to the pump to bybass what you are using just in case something is shorting out. See if that changes it.

Photoshop.

Great cold and hot starts, great throttle response, good power, no audible ping, good economy. 83 turbo motor stock long block Fidanza Flywheel solid p90 head stock turbo cam w 5angle valve job. very mild intake porting and exhaust manifold porting and matching MSII V3.0 firmware v2.687 4bar dual MAP sensors Wideband O2 LC1 42# (440cc/min) injectors high impedance (ford racing) EDIS-6 Crank Triggered Ignition System To4B/T3 SuperV trim 2.5" DP and exhaust Tuned to 15psi boost up to 6000rpm Intercooled 60mm 240sx throttle body CYGNUSX1 TUNE.zip

Try reseating the connectors at the ECU and AFM. Clean them and use di-electric grease.

It was some guys from the Big Phil Gym of Low Hanging Fruit that put you as referrer.

You old fart! Happy B-Day!

I guess you need to determine if your gears are installed backwards, courtesy of OBX, without opening it up, or you void your warranty. Hmmm. I emailed them about what I found in my OBX, and linked them to this thread, but I never got a reply from them. I guess my warranty is officially expired. LOL. You get what you pay for in general, but at least with this part, you can rework it if you have to, and get a decent performing part at a value price. This is the unit that is in my R200 3.54