cygnusx1

Looks Awesome! Brings back memories. You can run 14psi boost with a completely stock ZXT fuel injection and turbo (intercooled). You need to run 65psi of fuel pressure during boost with a RRFPR and a good fuel pump...265rwhp/300ft-lbs

Aluminum polish and a wax protectant like a car wax will keep it nice.

Not sure if Janaka is still selling his awesome Z. Check with him.

Kawasaki Green

Steam cleaned due to a coolant leak?

Any machine shop can make that for you. Look for sheet metal shops or machine shops. Tow hooks?

Look in the DOWNLOADS section for the factory manuals links. All factory diff settings apply to the install of the OBX.

Oh yeah the gear noise is....gear noise. Sounds kind of like the onboard videos of the rally cars. It varies with engine load and vehicle speed. I like the gear noise. It's not really loud. It's just there. If I crack a window open, the wind noise drowns out most of the gear noise. I don't have a radio. I don't think the gear noise is much different than a standard diff would be with an RT mount and poly bushings. I never had the RT mount with a stock diff. When a wheel comes off the ground, and the diff opens up, you can hear much more of the gear noises. I only get that when pulling up my steep driveway. One wheel will sometimes lift off the ground from the severe angle. Maybe those mustache bar bolts call for some locktite... I am making close to, if not, 350ft-lbs. I only have about 1000 miles on it but Pete has a few more. I think it will hold up fine.

I don't know if the clunk in mine is an anomaly or if it's normal for the OBX. I can tell you that it certainly made a big difference in accelerating out of corners, and launching the car. I feel like I can steer it with my right foot when the car is rounding a nice tight curve. It works as an LSD. Under "grocery" driving, it is transparent other than the clunk. I like it. I would love it if the clunk were gone. Worth the money? Yes. But if you got the dough, go for the Quaiffe if it doesn't clunk. EDIT! I got under the car tonight because I need to use it for work tomorrow. I lay on my back and rolled the car in gear, back and forth over myself. I watched the car roll back and forth about 5" just on the driveline slop. But I noticed that the diff was rocking ever so slightly left to right. I checked the mustache bar bolts up top and they were good, but one of the rear cover mount bolts was slightly loose (could be stripped in the cover) and allowing some movement! I torqued it down and the car still rolled back and forth about 5" but the clunk was GONE! I drove it and for the first time in all of my life, I drove a Z without a clunk in the rear. There is still slop in the drivetrain but it's more of a springy feel (not bothersome at all) and NOT a clunk. Retrospect: This car has had a clunk since 1989 when I bought it. I changed the diff twice, the axles, the trans, the rear bearings, all the mounts, all the bushings....and it still had a clunk. I lived with it. This past Winter, I changed it all again, with an OBX, and an RT Mount, tranny, but the clunk was still there. Since I had even expected the clunk to remain, I failed to even explore the obvious. Moral: Check everything again....and again. Don't assume. Driveline slop does NOT equal CLUNK sounds. I can now wholly recommend the OBX unit. Based on my limited use, and Pete's more extensive use. It works, and seems to hold up.

The bellville springs in the center grind against the two side gears all the time when there is wheel speed difference. There is no load on them during positive traction other than the assembly pre-load. The same would apply to washers on the outboard ends of the little gears. They are driven into the pocket faces during positive drive, not into the washers. All of the washers would see compressive force only during snap-decel or heavy engine breaking. Normal street driving would stress them very little. Even hard acceleration would have no effect on the washers. They are on the "downstream" side. OTOH, yes, a brass spacer, thrust washer would work well instead of the bellevilles, if sized precisely to each pocket-gear space.

I am strongly considering pulling out the OBX and adding bellville washers to the smaller gears outside ends. If there is no space inside the bores for the washers, I'll have the ends of the gears ground down a touch, to make room for a preloaded bellville washer. This should take the majority of the CLACK out of the diff. The main gears are held preloaded OUTWARDS, but the planetary gears are free floating(within their loose bores), and knock side to side on accel/decel. With bellville washers on their outer ends, they would preload in the accel direction, so when you lift off the throttle, they would remain in position, ready for accel again. The only downside is that the initial breakaway torque would increase. Right now it's only about 15ft-lbs. I guess it would be about 30-40 after adding all the other preload washers. Still in acceptable range.

POR works amazingly on solid metal that has a coating of rust. If it's not rusty, POR has a tough time sticking. I can't comment on the other stuff but I agree, get a gallon and then if you have any left, put it in a mason jar and keep it in the fridge. It will last a long time. Put some saran wrap between the lid and jar or you may never get the lid off again. ...oh and wear GLOVES.

I can picture it in my head. Green and black is a winning combo! Young Grasshopper!

I had the 200SX tranny. 1st gear was worthless.

Not for the faint of heart is right. Working under a car on the floor is a royal pain. Especially with large chunks of car part on your belly. Keep chugging!

Hehe I know what you mean about first gear. I had one that was even lower than the Z trannies. The engine went through first in a split second. So fast that the boost never even got to build. You might want to try a ZX 5-speed and a 3.54 if first gear becomes useless.

Got any links to an acrylic based chrome in a can?

Bermuda stopped publicly hanging criminals in 1999.

Since you already have the pump, put the pump in and limit it's maximum pressure via the bypass spring. High flow is great, you just don't want toooo much pressure.

So is the Carter pump better at sucking fuel out of the tank and feeding it at low pressure to the Walbro? Just trying to understand.

The paint shop is all backed up! I probably won't have your intake painted until 2013. J/K...should be painting it tomrrow night.

Sorry for your loss, and advice from an ignorant fool, don't let your son ride a 'roo to school under any trees!

You need to photograph the "museum" and post the pics over on EvilC's site. People need to see that amazing collection of Z history. Zmithzonian Muzeum of Z's

Ignore the title! It turned out to be wheel balance. Thanks to Jasper (Tommy), he used that machine listed above and mounted the wheels onto it "lug-centric". He ran a road force test which passed nicely and added a few weights. After tonights test drive I can sleep at ease. The car is smooth as butter up to tripple digits. THANKS JASPER!!

Don't forget about the weight advantage!