cygnusx1

If you like the looks of the S30, and you are a technical addict, go for it. If you just want to tweak a thing or two and get a competitive track/autocross car with some weekend bolt-ons....this is not it. The S30 can get there...but it's a voyage...a thrilling one for most of us. The plus of the S30 is that there are YEARS and YEARS of development, private and factory, that you can use as a roadmap.

OK So today was the day! I re-welded the short shifter to be a little bit longer and a little bit further back so that it sits dead center in the console in neutral. It was too notchy before, but now with its 1.5" extension, it feels fine. The RT Mount came in with the ES Poly mount last week. Today I set out for a long drawn out install. Well, it was such an easy install (<2hrs) that I highly recommend it. I dropped the front diff crossmember and let the diff sit on the sway bar (280Z). Then I unbolted the ridiculous strap hold down thingy. I fished the RT mount over the top of the diff and bolted it into place. I opened up the holes in the ES mount with a file and ground away some of the poly to make it sit a little more flush on top of the diff. Bolted it all up and returned the diff cross member, but this time without the old diff mount. I ended up with about 3/4" clearance between the crossmember and the diff bottom. It looks fantastic. And the diff seems very solidly mounted. As I took the car off the stands and fired it up, the rain began to pour. My luck. Rain for the next three days! Oh well, bye bye salty roads. I can't wait for the test drive later this week.

Speaking of torque....and multipliers.... sorry if I am slightly off topic... As a senior design project back in engineering skool..I designed a small dual worm gear box that would attach to two lug nuts (adjustable for any wheel). One of the sockets would turn by cranking a small handle on the side of the gearbox, like a jack-in-the-box. You crank the little handle and the socket turns the lug with a 60:1 torque multiplier. The second socket was on an arm, jutting off the gearbox, that hooked to the other lug for anti-torque. I demonstrated it by tightening a lugnut to 120ft-lbs and then having a lovely lady engineer remove the lug nut with ease. It was an expensive tool and would never replace the tools in a Mercedes Benz; the Roadside Assistance Plan. It was purely an exercise in design engineering.

Nice 240Z.

rags, post the pdf files here so some of the machinists on the site can give their rough estimate. I don't have the files here at work. I am not entirely surprised at the price. Machine work has gotten expensive. Gotta pay for those fancy CNC machines. I have one shop in Orangeburg, NY that I trust, but he will be just as expensive.

Only if you plan to owe up to your entitlement.

Hmmm...weird. Glad you sorted it out. Solid brakes are mandatory. I can't explain that one though. Now go perform a bed-in procedure and feel those brakes pop your eyeballs out when they get up to temperature! Amazing.

You might be stalling the turbo and pushing the BOV open. Caused by an oversized turbo. Search for surge.

Sorry I don't have facts to back me up but I think the 5 speeds have a slightly fatter tail section to fit the 5th gear in it. Do a visual if you can. Look at both together. 5th resides in the tail section.

A mechanical engineer, a chemical engineer, and an environmental engineer discuss the human body design. What type of engineer designed the human? ME says it has to be an ME, just look at all the bone structure and statics and dynamics involved. CE says whoaa, it must have been a chemical engineer because of all the chemistries involved in the blood and various other fluids and reactions. The Environmental Engineer says, well, it definitely wasn't one of us. Who would put a dump site so close to a recreational area!?

Thats why I wanted to test drive it in between snowstorms. Now I can "debug". I ordered the RT mount and the Energy Suspension bushing. I think I am going to make a secion of tube that fits over the shifter shaft with a threaded rod in the top of it. This way I can slide the tube to the right height and lock it in place. Sort of an adjustable short shifter.

I've seen it done that way but my dad drilled through the original mount tabs horizontally, front to back. I think I'm going to go with the RT mount. It just seems so clean and "factory" or at least how it should have been from the factory.

Try Zbarn in TN. He has been known to supply me with tranny internals before.

Technically it's not a solid mount. It's worse. My dad, trying to be helpful one day, drilled through the stock mount and the crossmember putting two large bolts through the whole thing! He was only trying to help but I think he went too far. He is retired and always asks if he can help out while I'm at work so I came home to find that one day. Oh well, at least I keep him busy. The Roostmonkey mount is the one I was going to order too. Thanks.

After a long two months of Jackstanding, my Z hit the ground today. I timed it in between a rainstorm which washed away salt and a Noreaster snowstorm that will ruin the roads once again. I had a small window of opportunity today to test the new parts. I installed a 81 ZX 5speed, Fidanza Flywheel, a 240mm ACT street performance clutch, a really really short shifter, the OBX torsen LSD, and rear camber bushings. The front of the diff is now solid mounted. EvilC and 280ZForce helped me wiggle the trans into place. Thanks guys! I stalled on my first launch...no surprise first time on a light flywheel. LOL. The shifter is too short. I can barely reach it in 1st 3rd and 5th. I need to either bend it back or make it a bit longer. The OBX diff works well, nice posi rubber on the road. Coming out of corners, I can feel the car biting. The solid diff mount would sound great in a race car and it gets muted by open windows, but on the street with the windows up, it's a bit too loud. I am probably going to get one of the RT mounts. When I snap-decel, I can hear the OBX banging off the bellville springs. It's no big deal and only happens if you really snap off the throttle in lower gears. Overall, I like the changes a lot. The higher 1st gear and close ratios feel great with the turbo. OK back to fuel up the snowblower and park the Z for a while again.

Nice! I think IAT position is an over-discussed topic. Vapor lock is a much bigger factor in AFR's. Just make sure you are not running in warmup mode now when your car is already warmed up. Somehow...I ran into that problem when I tried to compensate for vapor lock on hot start via programming. It might have been just my typing error....but keep an eye peeled for it.

Yes, the rearmost pulley is the only one suspended by rubber to soak up torsional vibration. The front of the pulley should be solid to the crank...at least that's how my double row 280Z pulley is.

You can create a fuel correction chart so that it goes rich when the IAT reads really hot, say 140F+. The IAT should only get that hot during heat soak and you can help correct the AFR's to compensate for some vapor lock at hot start. It should work....I think.

I thought $5K was a ripoff also. Jon, the leaking tank is made of cast iron. It's really clean cast iron and it only has a tiny dribble of water when the boiler is up to temp. It can be drained and there is room to get a welder in there without removing the boiler. I am going to guess it leaks about a gallon a day during this heating season. I used JB weld on my turbo downpipe and it had held up pretty well. The boiler is much cooler than the downpipe although the pressure is higher.

The original installer is MIA and the replacement boiler itself, could be purchased for $400, because of the warranty. However, a local plumber quoted $5000 for the install labor (not covered under warranty).

My parents have a Burnham boiler that is 12 years old, under warranty for 20. It heats water for their hot water home heating system and hot water. It's oil fired. The boiler developed a slow leak from underneath. They called a plumber who tried to put in a sealant. It didn't work. Another plumber came along and worked out a warranty price for a replacement boiler for $400, great! BUT he quoted $5000 in installation labor and misc parts! It's a two zone house with a hot water heater zone. Pretty simple. I thought $5000 labor was excessive for a drop in boiler replacement. Meanwhile, I pulled part of the case off the boiler and found the leak in a small pinhole on the right side of the boilers cast iron tank. It looks like a tiny pinhole in the casting. I immediately thought of saving my parents $5000+ with a tube of JB Weld, but possibly voiding the remaining years of warranty. Opinions on the JB Weld fix option? Certainly another quotation would be in order from another plumber if I don't go with the JB Weld.

It's an old thread, but I always attribute "lean hot start" to vapor lock in the injectors or rail. There are some tricks you can play with the intake air temp sensor. Get it to pull up the pulsewidths when the IAT is ridiculously high after being parked hot.

25K is a killer deal...sorry but all I can imagine is transferring that driveline to the perfect S30.