cygnusx1

FWIW...I also sprayed a glass jar with it and the chrome does not rub off the glass.

OK here is the spoon with some two part epoxy slopped on it. Not too bad and a very tough epoxy coat over it. I suppose I could find a two part epoxy spray clear? Anyone?

I went ahead and mixed up two part 5-minute epoxy and brushed it over the spoon. So far it looks very promising. I will post a photo later.

I painted some plastic spoons this morning. The chrome looks like a good polished stainless steel. The problem is that the metal flake rubs off onto your hands pretty easily. It definitely needs a clear top coat. I tried a non-waterbased clear coat and it turned it into a satin silver finish which was actually really nice, but not chrome. I am going to try to find a water-based clear. I hear that there is a product called Crystal Clear and one called Future that is waterbased. Search continues. Meanwhile look at the white plastic spoons. BARE and CLEARED

Doing some research on chrome paint I came across a few options. There is Alsacorp that seems to be the most well known chrome paint supplier. They tout all those chrome cars that you see pop up here once and a while. Their spray can kit costs about $130 and includes chrome paint, a black base coat, and a top clear. I found out that some of the RC Model guys are using a paint from a company called Spazstix to paint RC car bodies. I ordered a can from Tower Hobbies for under $10. I was skeptical. The spray can came with a glossy black cap. Unlike the ones you see in the auto parts store that have a chrome cap on a paint that sprays basic silver. I took off the black cap, and sprayed it with the Spazstix Mirror Chrome. I was floored. I am not sure how durable it is yet. It needs a clear top coat (waterbased) which I need to find. But for the price, the ease of application, and the look, I am amazed. I plan on removing the tail light trim and giving it a quick spray this weekend. I just need to find some waterbased clear to top it off. Here is a photo of the cap that I sprayed with the can. The cap was black. This is after three VERY light coats of Spaztix Mirror Chrome. Here is another guy that sprayed plastic spoons with the stuff. The last one is Spazstix Mirror Chrome uncoated.

Thanks guys. I then ran a very sharp 90 degree tube down under the frame rail and into the headlight bucket for a cold air intake. It's not shown in any photos. I had to use a "cobra's head" elbow which is a VERY short 90 bend feeding the AFM. Then I made an oval tube out of 3" pipe to squeeze down in between the AC compressor and radiator. It worked well but under hard braking, the AC compressor would contact the cold air pipe. No biggie when the AC clutch was off. I agree, hook up the AFM and go for a drive. It's inspirational. Fast even without MS.

Built well, it will be strong enough physically to make 400+ if it's not pinging. It's really about the tune, and the head flow between 300 and 400hp. Tuned by the best....yes 350+ to be expected. That clutch is going to be a PITA on the streets. Consider going with a 240mm 400ft-lb street disc if you are going to street it alot.

Take a look at my original build photos. I mounted the AFM right off the bracket for the original 280Z AFM. I cut the length of the 280ZXT hose to fit between the AFM and the Turbo. http://dcerutti.smugmug.com/gallery/1749234_5BA2m#87171635_5Rxc2 TurboAFM over the AC compressor, attached to original 280Z AFM boss.

Clive, didn't you need to remove the steering shaft before dropping the motor from underneath too? Maybe that's just too obvious to mention.

Those cars stock, were cars you could drive across the country in complete comfort and style. I suggest you use it for road tripping.

I ALWAYS refer back to this video... Cam, High Compression, twice pipes with glasspacks, would do it. Here's the twice pipes:

That is really nice software. Just out of curiosity, if it's not too hard to model, try throwing one of those crappy turbine blade intake thingys that supposedly swirl the air on the way in. See what your computer spits out. Another idea is to make it like a header...bring the runners together in a cluster at the intake. I know the "equal length" rule will be tough to keep though.

http://www.terrafugia.com/First_Flight_B.html Oh Dear...I better get a roll bar in my Z for those "cell phone" flyers!

Mine is lost too. Someday I'll see if I can have one printed up for me. The previous owner must have swapped dashes but forgot to rivet the plate. It was glued in place. It matched the firewall numbers so I know it was legit. When I had the car painted, the body shop knocked it off and it was lost forever. I think it can be pretty easily duplicated by a reputable trophy shop or something. You could try something like this but it might be suspicious.

Wow. I read this post at 7:58 and ran over to my DVR....thanks!

LOL. Yup, a very slippery one!

I double wrapped the pretty aluminum fuel rail with fiberglass/foil heat reflective batting. This should help. I am thinking about making little covers for the injector bodies as well.

A used 5 speed can be found for around $100-$150. Any Z or ZX year will work from 78-83. Some 200SX trans will fit if you swap bell housings. I'm not sure which ones fit.

Try some 2x4's. Or cheap out and get this bar which I really like. http://www.racetep.com/nissan.html It should fit over the LS1.

Some local shots.

FWIW I use Ford Lightning High Impedance 440cc/42lb injectors and my car idles fine. L28ET with around 300hp or more. MSII, Walbro 255l, and PWM-off.

Yeah same High School and same College just about 9 years apart! Let me put the car on jackstands next week and I'll set up a date with you and the tire machines. I can carry all four in my WRX or the minivan. Thanks. I like to run zero toe. It gives a really nice turn-in without too much tramming on the uneven roads. Toe-in is stable but turns-in slower.

Nope I don't think his machine is that high tech. The car sat on jackstands all winter this time and the tires were new last Spring. They might need a good heat cycle in them but I think they are pretty round. I jacked up the front tonight and felt a hair of play in the front wheel bearings, so I added some more preload to them. Then I added about 1/16" of toe in. I also brought the air pressure from 28 to 34psi. When I took it back out for a drive, there was no vibration at 40. At 60, I could barely feel it and at 80 it was better than it was at 60 before. I think it's partially due to slightly off tires, and it was being amplified by the loose front bearings. It's not completely gone but it's better. Maybe I need to drive it some more to get the tires softened up and then allow them to cool while driving. Otherwise, I'll try to find somewhere that has the fancy balancer like the one above.

I specifically told him that I want stick-on weights anywhere they need to be, inside or on the outside of the rim. Besides, there are already weights stuck on the outside from when he mounted the tires. You never know though...it was St. Pat's day.

I hope so. He did a great balance job when he mounted the tires. I will check to make sure. He does use a pretty sophisticated looking balance machine. FWIW.