S130Z

I have mounted the pump in the stock location with the fuel filter bing the lowest point in the system. Maybe the pump is too high. I have thought that the angle of my driveway combined with the low fuel level could cause the pump to go dry.

Hey guys! Let me start off by saying, I'm not trying to bash on AZC. They are great people over there and have been more than helpfull. When I first swapped to the turbo motor in my S130, I had installed a fuel pump purchased from Arizon Z Car. The pump wouldnt even budge and was seized. AZC was nice enough to rush me out a new pump that they had tested to be good. Now, 3 months later, my new pump is seizing up again. The other day, as I was leaving for work, I got in my car and noticed no fuel pressure. I turned the key back, and listened for the pump to prime. I got nothing out of it. I got under my car and started testing my connections to and from the pump. All of my electronics tested good and there was barely any resistance through the pump. As I was checking my electronics, I noticed my clear fuel filter (sits between the pump and tank) had no fuel in it. This concerned me because it usually has fuel in it. BTW, I park my car on a steep hill and the day my pump seized, I was very low on gas. I went to move the ZX, so I could get my truck out of the driveway, and got it off the incline. Just for laughs I turned the key again. To my surprise, the fuel pump came on. I don't know if this pump needed to be wet to turn over or what. So I'm wondering if anyone else has had problems with ths particular pump.

Hey Yasin! Since we are on the topic of your front air dam......I had a boo boo the other day....and....I broke mine in half . Luckly my friend does fiberglass repair and is fixing it for me(the incident happened right in front of his shop).

Nose dives typically mean that your front struts have gone bad. I would suggest starting there by replacing your struts and see if this fixes your problem.

Thanks for all the info guys! I have been thinking about what feild I want to go in, and the two that I have given most attention to have been either cargo or corporate. I figured a four year degree would likely be a plus, but I am a fast paced person and 4 years of desk work just doesnt seem to appealing to me. Regardless, I will figure it out and I just want to have a fun career that I am interested in.

Put that on a Dyno Dynamics dyno or a Dynomite Dyno and see what the numbers come out to. My turbo ZX layed down 40 more hp and 50 ft/tq more on a DynoJet than it did on a Dynomite chassis dyno.

You stated bringing your gap down to .038 lessened your missfires. I gap my plugs on my turbo motor at .028. Close your gap a bit more and see if it helps out.

Hey guys! So I recently decided to become a pilot. I am going to take private lessons to get my Private License and then work towards a commercial licence. At this moment I am searching around for recomended instructors and a good price. Anyone here know of a fair rate to pay for lessons? The closest instructor to my house is giving an average cost of $9800 for about 60 hours? The plane I would be flying is a Cessna 172 and the company is Eagle Aviation in Columbia, SC.

Isky aslo carries nissan L6 blank camshafts to grind to any spec you want.

3 IN. Will definatly be better than the 2.5". If you factor in the length of piping and number of bends that create back preasure in the system, the 3" piping becomes superiour. It will also become beneficial once the boost bug bites you and the urge for more power becomes harder to resist

I am running the 3.90 in my Turbo setup and hate it. I have a larger than stock turbo and I can never get over 10psi in 1st gear. It's also my DD and I drive mainly on the highway(3.90 is terrible for the highway). I will soon be going to a 3.54 as the 3.90 is WAY too short. Also, if your using the stock turbo cam, the 3.90 tends to keep your RPMS above the power band.

What happens when you break a ring and damage the cylinder? Bring it to the local machine shop and stick it in the oval bore machine? Oversized pistons.....I think not!

Edit: Sorry, still getting the hang of the new layout, didnt realize there was more than one page.

Take into consideration that the vacuum advance is only engaged under light throttle, when there is a good vacuum being applied. When under WOT the vacuum advance is not giving the additional 18 degrees.

Yeah, if I remember correctly, they are called injector holders. Also, it may be a good time to replace the injector o-rings. I know Advance Autoparts should be able to get the o-ring kit.

Go to advance autoparts. Thats where I got mine from. Also, you can find them pretty cheap on eBay.

When you pull the front timing cover, I would recomend replacing the two gaskets for that cover. Also, It makes the job a bit easier if you loosen the bolts to the oil pan to allow a bit of clearence when you reinstall the front cover. I believe the crank bolt is a 27mm, but dont hold me to that number. The two dots on the chain should line up with the dots on the cam sproket and crank sproket at the same time. Both dots should be on the right hand side if you are facing the cam chain.(tried finding a pic, but could'nt)

I had those injectors on my turbo motor. I sold them to another member here when I upgraded my setup. He said they are working great for him.

Go to autoZone and have them test your alternater. Your guage reading 14v when the car is on may be saying the alternater is putting out the correct volts. But if the alt is not putting out enough amps, then your battery may not be getting a decent charge.

I've got a turbo manifold. Not to sure on how to ship to Sweden, buit I can try and find a price for you. Can you email me a shipping address and what you would be willing to pay? My email is adamsilver1984@hotmail.com Thanks, Adam Silver

Yup! You can email me at adamsilver1984@hotmail.com with more details.

Here is my dyno graph. Sorry it is so blurry, but torque is 350.4ft/lbs and hp is 290.0hp. This was on 15 psi on a stock rebuilt long block running MS-II and a GT30 .63a/r turbine and .70a/r compressor w/ stage 3 wheels.

Wish I had seen this before I sent you a PM. By the way, I am running a Failpro head gasket on 15psi with ARP head bolts. Tomorrow I will try and scan my dyno sheet and post it up, numbers were 290hp and 350.4 ftlbs/tq.(I had one run at 297 hp with a few ft/lbs of torque less) What type of Dyno did you run on?

Well I just dyno'd my L28ET with MS-II and I layed down 297hp and 350.4 ft/tq at 15psi. I was running about 21.2 deg. timing at 15psi. I started loosing power as I increased the timing.