LanceVance

Haven't heard of anyone trying this, although it reminds me of the IMSA cars. Have you considered that style? Pretty radical departure from everything else you mentioned.

Nice find! I believe what you've got there is the wheel and adapter out of a Nissan 720 'ST' pickup. I've been looking to pick one up for my 620, which sort of explains why you found it in one (they were a popular swap).

Are you referring to the R35 or older generations? Is there any advantage using something out of the skyline model line (hard to source in the U.S.) when there are various 4x4 models that must have come with transmission coolers? I wasn’t aware of this. I’m anticipating a fair amount of research on this topic in my not-so-distant future… In regards to the I-10 limit, lets just say the stretch in between Las Cruces and the NM/AZ state line have been used as a top-speed proving grounds on more than one occasion. …Mind the jackrabbits, coyotes, and big cats… that is all I will say on the topic. The diff cooler is definitely in the works as well, just debating on how to go about mounting and providing airflow. Synthetics are a must here in the desert! I’ve been babying the STi here the last few days (110° on the dash for external temp) due to the high heat, and my garage still smells like burning plastic the next morning… Any model specific recommendations in regards to the pump? Most everything I’ve looked at is gear driven and specific to the model’s motor or auto transmission.

I've got an idea that is most likely ill advised, but I figured I would run it by those more knowledgeable than I before dismissing it completely! Anyway, let me first list what I've got (this is for a 75' S30 2+2 with an L28ET): I've got a manual 240SX 5-speed gearbox that is out and ready to be mated to my 4-speed bell housing. I've got a P90 head (which was cast with an opening for a mechanical fuel pump, despite not being intended for use with one), a camshaft with an eccentric end piece and a spare mechanical fuel pump. I've got a replacement radiator that comes from the factory with a transmission cooler (as was equipped with automatic models). See where I'm going with this? Would it be possible to pump the transmission fluid through the cooler using the mechanical fuel pump? As far as I can tell there shouldn't be any problems with this configuration, but being so deceptively simple leads me to believe I'm overlooking something obvious. Advantages would be: A.) Cooler transmission fluid. B.) The ability to constantly filter the fluid instead of relying on one small magnet catching only ferrous contaminants. C.) The simplicity of using readily available and professionally manufactured components from within the Nissan family. D.) Cost. I've got everything aside from the few fittings and lines required to connect it all. Disadvantages: A.) Not very efficient. B.) Pump not intended for the heat and viscosity associated with transmission fluid. Comments? Ideas? Suggestions?

Nigel, Bummed that they started leaking, though I'm glad you took the time to warn others about it. Sorry to hear about your paint . I was only using them for a short time before I tore everything down for a complete restoration, so I never really had the proper amount of time to test them. Do you you suppose an insulated t-bolt clamp would work better than the double wire clamps the factory used? I imagine that would remedy the slipping problem and more evenly distribute the clamping force (avoiding stress points and subsequent cracks). I guess another option would be to grove the MC for o-rings, which I'm sure someone here could provide measurements for. Overkill perhaps... For reference, this is the thread that turned me on to the Tilton size similarities (I'm curious if he's had any issues?): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/71795-240z-remote-master-cylinder-reservoir/ In reference to your yellowed stock reservoirs, research 'retr0bright', you may find that you are able to bring them back to their former glory (or some approximation thereof).

Any chance you'll make the 2+2 set since you're tooling up for the mold making process?

I'm seeing if a friend of mine is close enough to pick up for me. I've got a 620 that will be getting some love soon, and this will definitely give me the extra encouragement needed to start digging into it! Edit: Looks like he ended up moving around 4 hours away from you. If you decide to ship I'll be happy to pay that and whatever your favorite 6-pack costs!

Found it! I believe I paid around $35 for it and would like to recover the same. It has never been mounted,just left in storage. I bought this from Derek, but ended up having a complete matching set of block off plates made for the engine (timing, fuel pump, and dizzy).

Tyler, It is merely a cosmetic piece, aside perhaps from the contamination prevention aspect. The shaft is held straight further down the 'pathway' it follows diagonally across the cover; trimming the shaft after this point is fine, albeit unnecessary. I may have a project for your lathe if you feel like practicing on some parts for minimal compensation . Chaos, I'll try and look tonight, kids and viruses seem to be conspiring against me...

I might have one that I can spare, I'll dig around for it this evening.

So.... how much?

This may give you some ideas: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106780-lets-see-those-brake-ducts/

Still a no go on my RAZR, I've done the following: 1.) Cleared Cache. 2.) Cleared History 3.) Removed www. from address 4.) Tried the mobile and the desktop site. Thanks Dan for all the hard work!

Still can't access HybridZ on my mobile (Droid RAZR Maxx HD), which is what I use to do the majority of my browsing...

I've also been getting 404 errors. Seems like the site works fine on my laptop, but I usually browse away from home on my mobile, which seems to be completely unable to log onto Hybridz...

I've got one that I pulled while picking up manifolds for the Senza Pari group buy. I never saw the car run so I can't vouch for condition, purchase would have to be an 'as is' purchase. $40 plus shipping/PayPal fees.

While you've got the glass out I would suggest a good polishing with cerium oxide. It's not always noticeable how many small scratches it's picked up in the past 40 years, but you've already done most of the work just getting the glass out. I plan on doing all the glass while the trim is out for PC, which should aid in tinting and gasket replacement. Just trying to spread my 'While I'm at it' sickness

I wasn't aware of these, but you can consider this idea stolen! Much better than stacking steel and rubber washers (especially if you get the rubber rivnuts).

While researching oil filters for my L-Series build I came across a thread on another forum ('Bob is the oil guy') which I thought would be a good reference for members here. The thread, written by a dedicated guy known as 'Big-O-Dave', was made to provide a comparison of oil filters threaded for 3/4"x16. I've tried contacting him via PM, but it seems he is no longer active on the forum. He did give permission to others to repost his findings, so he should be fine with it here (and if not, you can always contact me to have it removed Dave!). Most of the pictures were posted on another forum all together, but I consolidated them here (instead of just having PhotoBucket links) to allow easy side-by-side comparisons. A few of the ones listed are standard L-Series items, so theoretically they should all be cross compatible. If anyone tries one and has fitment issues please post here so we can remove it from the list. Personally I'm curious to see if I can run one of the longer filters on the 280zx oil cooler adapter... Enjoy. Sources: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/343533/Some_cut-open,_virgin_oil_filt#Post343533 http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/414873-here-are-a-few-oil-filter-photos-new-additions-by-big-o-dave.html#post299461

Agreed. Also, a black and white number decal on the door may help bring it all together.

The price of the smoked version is significantly more expensive. Something on the scale of 3 to 4 times the price I'd pay for the clear. It would be nice to go that route, but matching it to the other glass (both in terms of light transmission and hue) was also a concern of mine.

Avernier, The big issue with that mirror will be converting to a windshield mount as opposed to the factory roof mount. While actually using the windshield isn't difficult (although it may look awkward looking due to the lack of frit), removing the original mirror mount, which is integrated into the sun visor system will leave an obvious empty/unfinished area where the mirror arm used to attach. Moving on... Another possible option may be the Z32' mirror. I stumbled across a photo of one and was struck by how similar it is to the S30 piece. Unfortunately I haven't been able to compare them side by side, but if someone is able to pick one up reasonably priced to verify fitment, this may be a good option. Being 20 years younger and with hopefully better/more modern silvering techniques used in it's construction I'm thinking these may last a good bit longer than the S30 mirrors! Z32 Mirror (Don't worry, it comes in black too) S30 Mirror

Whatever it takes to draw their eyes off their cell phones!

Luseboy, it's funny you suggest the third brake light flasher combo. I've actually got both sitting in storage, awaiting the bodywork stage of my build. I'm doing it slightly different, using the third brake light from a current generation Dodge Charger. It's an LED type light with an integrated momentary button for the trunk release, making it ideal for my shaved hatch/spoiler combo. I'll be installing it in a ducktail style spoiler.

I've been looking at BMW E30 rear views to get an integrated map light. The mounting is the same (pivot ball within the housing, instead of in the arm) as the S30s, but I've yet to compare them side to side. Another issue is the wiring... In the BMW the wiring actually goes through the arm, instead of being routed outside of it as is typical in many cars today. This may or may not be a problem, depending on how the wiring is routed inside the case. The ideal thing would be to drill out the S30 mirror arm for the wiring, but this would be far more work than most are prepared to do considering the curvature of the arm...