LanceVance

Hate your turbo much? Wayyyy too much dust in the desert where I live for that! Here is the section of piping from the manifold to the rad support that I had Casey (of Senza Pari) put together. Mostly showing it off, but considering it's relevance to the topic I'll post it anyway...

Perhaps, but considering the typical intercooler piping routes (under motor, or behind the radiator, etc) I don't really see the 3 extra couplers as over complicating things. My planning is ever evolving however, the top pipe looks like it will pass through the top hole without any modifications to the rad support. This will be done to facilitate my hidden nitrous system (I cringe to word it that way, as it gives the impression I'm hiding it with some nefarious purpose in mind; I assure you, I'm only doing so because everything else is tucked/shaved/deleted), which will be plumbed in the natural pocket in between the rad supports upper walls. This is also evolving; considering the work it would take to plumb everything through the relatively small area available to me in the rad support, I've begun also looking at sending it under the headlight into the natural box that makes up the bumper support structure (park bench bumper models only). Considering I've got to mount the early bumpers and an early airdam, I'm putting off cutting anything away before I know what is necessary for them and what clearance issues may arise. Added benefit is the airdam I'm planning on using (3 hole Kaminari) lends itself to ducting into this box, ensuring steady cool air. My STi has a much smaller intake funnel with sharper bends, so I doubt this would be an overly restrictive set up. Best thing is, 4" piping is possible this way, simply by changing where I weld in the joiner.

Happen to have some pictures?

Bit of a spoiler, but he's got a more recent engine bay shot in the 'Post pics of your Z' thread. Looks amazing, very clean and well thought out. One of my favorite bays by far!

Care to elaborate? I'm working on a single wiper, arm-on-motor conversion and had been looking for an arm compatible with modern blades. I like the thought of having the small spoiler to compensate for the lack of a recessed rest position as well...

I love how you used banjo fittings on the valve cover and fuel rail. Very 'OEMish' level of fit and finish you've achieved. Few Questions: 1.) What is the chrome pipe on the spark side of the head? 2.) How is the line off the valve cover plumbed (catch can, A/O sep., direct to mani, etc)? What about the block port? 3.) I see a dizzy but the spark plug cables don't go to it,what's going on there? 4.) Did you make the hardlines lines yourself? Couldn't find a build thread, but I'd love to see all that you've done if you have one (the brake MC resivoir raises more questions than I'm willing to ask in a picture centered thread)!

Wow! I wasn't aware there was a 2+2 specific widebody out there. I'd love to pick up those rear fenders, shave the vent thing in front of the arch, widen the tail light panel to fill the rear vents and slap some ZGs on top of it all... Good find, hope to see it all go to use.

Thanks for the link, I've been planning a rear diffuser similar to this, and I'm glad to see one already in use on an S30. I'm thinking mine will extend out slightly more, and I'll notch the rear panel to allow it to come up a little higher as well; something like this, hanging off the rear bumper: Anyhow, considering this is a hood vent discussion, I'll redirect that way. I'm planning on cutting some holes in the hood for venting, and installing some almost flush louvers (I will rarely track the car, despite it's many 'race car' features, so I'm not opposed to making some successions for aesthetics). Has anyone here made custom louvers in this fashion? I've seen it more and more often in the OEMs, and despite their fascination with non-functional fashion vents in the 90's I'm inclined to think that they do serve their purpose. Here are a few examples to illustrate. Ford Raptor: Aston Martin V12 Vantage: I'm planning on something closer to the Aston's in terms of design and shape, but much simpler in construction. A basic riveted aluminum design, powder coated to match the exterior trim work. This is the closest thing I found on the web: I'm also planning a set of matching fender vents, situated right behind the ZG flares. My hopes are that the flare will act like the small spoiler before the vent that has been discussed earlier in this thread...

Any pictures of your set up, or sound clips? I'm considering a fender exit exhaust and would love to see how you went about it...

Stivva, those new wheels look great! Anymore shots of the new shoes? I'll likely be PM'ng you down the road, those are the exact wheels I've always planned on running on my Z.

Afraid not, both of these are pretty far down on a long list of things that need to be done to the car.

I have one (maybe two), I'll PM you with pictures once I get home from work. Edit: Forgot I had some pictures already on my phone, you've got a PM headed your way.

They are RECARO Sportster CS'.

That's about average from what I've seen. Usually it's $70-80, plus $20 shipping there and back. Perhaps I'm just being stingy, but I'm wanting the $40 'throw it in while I'm at it' special... It's not that much after all, it just bothers me to pay the tray price for six tiny parts! If I can get my parts snuck into someone else's big lot then I'd be very happy. In the end, this is something I would like, but only at a low (around $40-50) price. Anymore than that, and I'm wasting money on aesthetics that could have been spent on go fast bits, which just doesn't sit well with me...

I've considered the DIY route, but I'm not confident I can get the quality and consistency I'm after.

Like the title states, I'm looking for someone who can do some small scale anodizing work for me. Everywhere I call has high initial fees, which would be fine if I was doing a big batch, but I'm doing six small parts. Specifically, I'm wanting to do the injector retainers in a matte gold. Here they are, all cleaned up: If anyone works at an anno shop, or knows of one that is affordable please let me know. I'm in no rush, so waiting for my stuff to be thrown in with a larger batch is no problem. If necessary, I can have them blasted locally, though it would be a plus to have it done all in one shop. Thanks in advance!

You might try looking at your 'recent visitors' list on your profile page; perhaps one of the names will ring a bell?

I had no problem with your question! Someone questioning the answer without doing any research beforehand is what bothered me.

Is Tony really needed to validate what has been repeatedly confirmed on this site? I've got a 2+2, the hatch is shorter. At least search before you question something you are unsure about. For the record, everything FORWARD of the door hinges is interchangeable when speaking of 2+2/coupe body differences. Anything behind (again, speaking of body differences only) is unique, and therefore not an option for a simple swap over.

No it won't work, different size.

Tony, Thanks for yet another thorough reply. I can only assume I'm asking the right right questions when you take the time to type that much out. All, Here is the plan as it stands now: I will mount the nozzle within the pipe pictured above, held in place by a bracket that holds it where it will spray beyond the opening for the BOV. The nozzle will be fed by hard lines that are fed into the pipe close to where it passes through the radiator support. This will be done with bulkhead fittings and a sealer, although the fittings can later be welded in place should they not seal completely under boost. The solenoids will be mounted as close as is practical to the bulkhead fittings, while still keeping them hidden (the under fender area lends itself to this). The solenoids will be actuated with an arm switch and a WOT switch; they will be further regulated by either a window switch or MS, whichever proves to be more practical for my build. I am using a crank pulley mounted trigger wheel for ignition, which should be very accurate so I'll probably cut flow at 250rpms before redline. The BOV will be recirculated as originally planned, with special attention paid to the dump point. This will be angled in such a way as to help get air moving in a circular motion matching the rotation of the turbo's compressor wheel.

The bracket will be located in such a way that the ends of the nozzles will be beyond the opening for the BOV. Aside from that, the engine being under boost should keep the mixture moving in the right direction.

I'm afraid I was too busy yesterday to type a proper response to everything that was said, so please excuse yesterday's short post! Sounds like very good advice, I'll start researching what it takes and the associated costs to add solenoid control to MS vs a standard window switch. I'll most likely end up trying it out with two bulkhead fittings and some RTV on the outside. If that doesn't work I'll just have them welded in place. More than likely I would position the nozzles in such a way that it avoids the BOV path before venting to atmosphere. I like the recirculated sound and the help spooling up. You can see the valve in my gallery if it makes any difference to the discussion. Softer would be better here. I'm not really looking for the Fast N' Furious light bending, face melting hit. I'm hopping that the nozzles mounted even with the BOV flange provides a nice balance, while avoiding sending fuel further up the intake path. When you say 'into the airstream correctly' do you mean angling the dump point downstream so that it creates as little turbulence as possible, or something beyond that? I suppose I could even angle it side to side to create a cyclone effect? The BOV's location was decided long ago, with many other factors in mind. That said, I see no reason I can't keep it recirculated with the set up I outlined above.

Here is this pipe that Casey put together for me: I figure if I mount the bracket shortly after the BOV flange, angled so it has the straightest path possible I should be able to get adequate distance from the TB.

I suppose I could run open, although I doubt the old school HKS 'diverter valve' was ever intended to be ran that way. It's probably just my distaste for people putting loud BOVs on otherwise unmodified cars around that makes me want to run recirculated... If I go with the method I mentioned above it shouldn't be an issue either way. Thank much for the thorough response, it is greatly appreciated. I'll probably be shooting a few more questions your way once I'm closer to putting it all together. Still have some time to study while I gather the parts, so I'll keep reading up on some of the points you've touched on.