LanceVance

Pictures?

Keep what you have, add cut-out, fender exit exhaust, done!

Looks like the shop is closed, so I doubt they will be able to help you. If you search on some Honda forums you can find their contact info, if you still want to try though... Oh what the hell, I'll make it easy: ravermotorsports@earthlink.net

Here is the pump I received. Tried it again, and it definitely won't turn without modifying the valve cover. Looks to be the larger impeller to me, but the only other I have is the stamped type so that's of no real use for comparison. Edit: I forgot to mention that there are dremel marks on the outside identical to those recently posted.

Sounds like you may have been experiencing cavitation in the heads coolant passages?

The CHTS is generally considered the better option. Temperatures around cylinders 5&6 are typically higher than the others so it's good to have the sensor near there to quickly read when they are getting too hot. The thermostat housing will always read slower and lower than the CHTS. The GM sensor threading in (despite it not being the same thread size/pitch I might add) is the only real advantage it has going for it. If you've got the CHTS already, along with the conversion values then I don't see any reason to change over to the GM unit.

Here is the build thread, perhaps you can sift through and find the answer? Andre Raud's Datsun 240z Turbo SR20det powered Hope you cab read Estonian...

I believe the original plating is in fact cadmium however yellow zinc chromate is usually considered an acceptable substitute (similar appearance and protective properties). It can be difficult to find someone to do cad plating due to it's inherent toxicity and restrictions placed on it's use. I've considered lacquer but I worry how it would hold up to under hood temps... I've boiled some before and it was hell to remove. Are you referring to clear PC or something more specific? I'm probably going with a high temp clear powder on some of the larger items... This looks promising! After just a few minutes research I came up with some interesting information. It seems the original owner simply renamed and updated the brand and formula. Seems like a bad idea considering most references to 'Zoop' imply the business went under! Took a page right out of the Datsun-to-Nissan brand name marketing book... Here is the new product, ShineSeal. Something tells me the wife would object to me converting the garage...

Disclaimer: First off, let me state that I'm fully aware of the standard use of zinc plating, being a sacrificial layer to protect underlying metal components. It was never intended to be a solely aesthetic component, and that it losing it's luster over time is simply a function of it doing the job it was intended for. I would like to direct this discussion however into the light of a classic car restoration mentality. Zinc plating is both pleasing to look at with it's golden shine coupled with hues of red green and blue and a desirable provider of contrast where chrome or powder coat is unwanted or overstated. It can provide a level of OEM completeness and finish to even highly modified engines. It is for this reason that I have spent many hours prepping a multitude of parts for zinc plating. Considering all the work I've done already, I am now looking for ways to preserve the plating before I reassemble the various components that they belong to. I've considered clear powder coat or paint but given the different sizes and complexity of parts this will only work on a few of the large pieces. Small parts (screws, nuts, etc.) are always going to be impractical to PC or paint, and would likely chip during installation either way. Now I am asking members of HybridZ, what have you done or considered doing to preserve zinc plating? We've got enough old Hot Rodders, fabricators, platers and powder coaters not to mention our walking Wikipedia; someone else has to have thought about this! Some eye candy I saved from somewhere, just to get the wheels turning:

Definitely needing the ubiquitous OEM versus our product shot. I'm interested, though I may be needing a different size. 9012 I think?

Just tried it out, part no: WPN079 has the large impeller and will NOT turn without modifying the timing cover. Good to go!

These are the headlights I'm using: They are Fiat 500 projectors, and I will be doing a fair amount of work to make them fit. The point for me isn't to go the easiest, or even the most effective route but to thoroughly modernize the entire exterior of the car while maintaining a OEM level of fit and finish. Simply putting the fogs where the signals used to be just wouldn't cut it for me, especially considering that most fogs that would fit are cheap AutoZone specials. The car will likely never be driven at night or in the fog (You're right in that we rarely have fog here), and will never be a daily driver; this is a weekend racer/cruiser/street hoon and occasional show car, so I'm not afraid to go crazy with it. I'll make concessions for aesthetics, so long as it's both functional and done in a way that won't hurt performance in any way other than the limited added weight. All in all, I'm doing it for looks. If someone follows suit because they actually drive in the fog then great, that's why I posted it up. My inner ricer even has some yellow film ready to go...

Tracking shows mine delivered, I'll get home this afternoon and try it out.

You have, Post #1478, Page 74 of the post your pictures thread. Member name shakotan_culture. Very sharp looking Z!

As soon as it gets here I'll bolt it up and see if it spins... Odd feeling hoping something doesn't work right out of the box!

Just ordered one, 3 left...

Tan and black can look good, especially if you can add some chrome or brushed aluminum for contrast. A friend of mine has this combo in his white S2000 and it definitely looks sharp! Plenty of examples of this interior on the internet if you want to get an idea how it might look. Keep the exterior yellow, an older neighbor of mine had an all original restored Z in yellow and it was very striking in the sunlight. Seeing him drive to work every day in it was very frustrating considering my car is in boxes all over the garage right now...

Not to mention some of the most vigilant moderators of any car forum out there. Information without organization is useful to no one, and this beast certainly doesn't govern itself. I value my time, why should I expect theirs for free? In regards to the statement that 'this site used to be a goldmine', I would attribute that to the growing popularity of these cars and the dwindling number of parts and parts providers. Get what you want when you can, you never know when (or if) it will ever crop up again!

Did we forget the 'T' at the end of EJ22 Looking forward to seeing what you do with it, I've always loved Subaru and VWs!

Out of curiosity, how are you guys keeping the exhaust tip from hitting the fender? I've seen a few of these, and the tolerances always seem very tight where the exhaust actually exits the fender. I don't recall seeing any flex pipes on these, so are guys using solid motor mounts? I'd love to put an electric cutout and do this, but I'd be pissed if I ended up bashing my fender and chipping paint on every startup. Burnt paint just adds street-cred though! Edit: Just considered the possibility of shooting fireballs at cars wanting to race. The look on the faces of Honda kids alone would be worth the additional cost!

Is this for the Senza Pari group buy? If so I believe someone sent two manifolds and the one they aren't using is an N42... Might be worth looking into either way.

Found a set of practically new Fiat 500 projectors for less than $150 shipped, so I pulled the trigger on them and then picked up some FRP headlight scoops to modify. Probably won't get around to actually mounting and cutting for some time, but everything looks good on initial inspection! Proper HID's and using the amber light in the headlight as the front blinker is the eventual goal.

I plan to find a soft wire brush you can chuck in a drill and get one of those flexible extensions when I get to cleaning up the rockers. Eastwood also sells a 'inside-the-frame' coating and rust converter with a special sprayer/hose to get at the stubborn surface rust deep in there.

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Payment sent, I included the address on the 'message for recipient'.