1969honda

Primer "can" soak up moisture in the air and cause rusting underneath if not properly applied, if it will never be out in the rain I would worry too much though.

Primer "can" soak up moisture in the air and cause rusting underneath if not properly applied, if it will never be out in the rain I would worry too much though.

I didn't know it was that light, maybe I'll have to look into Will's setup a little more when I get to that point. I've been going the direction of throwing an s13/j30 subframe in due to how readily available and cheap they are; but if there is a weight savings and power threshold increase I will have to save my pennies and do some additional research.

Yeah, I don't think I'll need the R230, if it gets to that point I'll pony up for Will's 8.8 kit when the time comes and skip all of the adapters and so on. Thanks for the heads up!

Mike, Really enjoyed reading through your build, sorry for the troubles, but as I've always told other "life happens", means some times it sucks, other times it's great but the lemonade is only as good as we make it for ourselves. Hope you get to accomplish your goals and can't wait to read what happens next and learn a little from your experience and hopefully not your expense.

So talked with Ryan today and the crank is almost finished with relocating the oil passages and then it should be on its way hopefully today or tomorrow I also just sent off one of the original hypereutectic VK56DE pistons to Randy at RaceTec Pistons for a quote on a custom forged set to work with the 6.100" Scat H beam rods (66100927A) that I am planning to run so things are moving along. Now I need to order up 3 more throttle bodies and get the ITB mounting and linkages figured out. I've also been talking with a few people about dimensions for the 06-09 Cadillac STS-V M122, the CTS-V TVS1900/2300 and a friend about the standard GT500 M112/M122 blowers to see what is possible that way, just need to order gaskets to figure out port spacing etc.... Should make for an interesting summer and serious Solidworks time with the ITB linkages, charger adapter, etc....

Are these fender flare glass that's been bonded feathered in our steel? They look amazing!

Start by checking all of your ground connections in the electrical system. Check your chassis ground, engine ground, etc. Also just because the battery shows 12v doesn't mean it is any good you need to load test it to make sure it can support the all-star draw of the stater. Almost 90% of electrical problems are a bad ground connection. GL

Very interested to see how the Link and everything works on this, slowly going thru a similar swap http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121186-midnight-madness-560z/

Due to some unforseen and unavoidable complications my crank is still at the machine shop and will hopefully be here in couple of days. I managed to stop by a local pick n pull the other day and was quotede $125 for the complete rear suspension from either a q45 or a j30, there are currently (3) Q45s and 1 J30 in their hard. I also scored this r200 4.08:1 diff for under $30 this past week. *Fixed links

Very interested to see how this goes! Good luck

I have some TruckLites on the shelf waiting for my build to progress to the electrical upgrade phase of things. I can say they are a direct swap though as I put one in just for kicks and giggles after seeing this thread. I'll post a few pics up a little later of a comparison of how they look cosmetically, the right hand side still has the stock light installed. Interesting side note, almost all new military trucks have trucklites installed, the neawer Oshkosh trucks we are getting appear to have the JWs. Both are really nice and bright at night.

Looking great! What gas tank did you decide to go with? That tucked up in there really nice, looks like you gained some room for running the exhaust to.

So I've been laid up with some back problems the past couple of weeks meaning that garage time has been effectively ZERO!! I have however had time to browse the internet and actually comply a little more comprehensive listing of what I want and need to do to the chassis, so here we go. Plans for the car are: - 450-500HP range NA (working on ITBs while waiting for crankshaft) - Aftermarket ECU or JWT tuned early Q45 Ecu (~$100+programing-$$$) - Crankpins turned and widened to accept LS rods (being turned now) (~$350) Torque Machine - Forged 6.100" rods with a .927" PE (stock is 6.083) (~$400-500) - LS forged pistons with appropriate valve reliefs if necessary, waiting on a few mfg to return quotes and availability RaceTech Pisons (????) - JWT valve spring upgrade (~$320) and possibly JWT S7/S2 or JWT ITB cam swap (~$12-1300) - Possible future upgrade to a TVS2300 or M122 supercharger (~$500-900) - Full cage and seam weld chassis (????) - Differential and rear drive train swap, R200 upgrade minimum, possible R230 from Q45 or full S13/14/J30 subframe swap (~$500-800) - LED Headlights and covers (free lights ) - Either Ariata Speed Works FG fender flares or similar full metal flares similar to this setup - Front Air Dam and possible splitter similar to this one (not a huge fan of the ricer wing though) - Rear spoiler (undecided on style at this point) - Nismo Comp style hood vent, still working on exact design concept, thinking of using steel to slightly widen and then raise the existing hood contours with some vents cut like the competition hood vent and then boxing in/sealing the ITBs to the opening for cold air intake - Hood vents (same style as 260 pictured above) - Z32 5spd, z33 cd009, or T56 Transmission depending on pricing for matching adapter, clutch and flywheel. (~$1500-2000?) - Wider rims and tires to hook up good Should be a fun little street/strip car to work on with my 3 boys and beat up on some of the local rustangs and vetts.

I know a lot of the aftermarket SBC pistons and rods are usually bored to correct tolerance by a machine shop before final assembly, this ensures a couple of things; - eliminates possibility of the bores being of center from forging/casting - gives proper oil clearance - ensures rod and piston bores are properly aligned. A lot of aftermarket suppliers from what I have read actually plan on press fit pins being sized to the piston this way for the best performance and fit. Your machine shop should have an accurate way to proper center the pins in the rods and piston bore. I don't think it would cost very much ($15 a piston maybe) to have a competent machine shop give them a quick once over and ensure everything is up to spec. If it were mine I would have the shop take a look at them for the piece of mind.

Very nice! Thank you for sharing.

I'm leaning more towards the ITB setup as well, I'm a big fan of seeing what things can do on all motor. I think once I get it running with the ITBs then I'll start to play more with the forced induction ideas. @Roger I think your right about a stock m112 being on the small side but I'm looking at a ported charger that's been on a built Lightning. Ideally I'd love to figure out how to get a TVS to mate up and work. The chargers are way more efficient from what I've seen and read, they're also pretty readily available on fleabay for under 1k.

That's definitely tucked in there Six_Shooter! Once I get a transmission figured out I'll finalize placement and the oil pan, hoping to avoid any mods but I have a hunch the pickup screen and sump will be a little to low in stock trim.

Just got word from Torque Machine, crank should be done shortly and on its way here. Ryan said there was plenty of room to widen things up and turn the pin journal down the ~.025" to accommodate LS rods

Sorry for busting your balls, guess I'd better pay a little more attention before chiming in. But on that note.... when can we expect to see some time slips?

Are you doing a custom manifold or modifying the porsche cayenne like a few have tried/done on the titan forums? I'm working on an itb setup but work, funds and time have got me slowed down right now to a halt until the end of next month or so.

Wow... No offense but chill out man, if it's that important I'm sure Will would be willing to sell you a kit too... Just saying

What did the VK56 come out of? The front timing covers, coolant passages in the valley, oil filter location, all look drastically different than the '05 Armada vk56 in my garage/engine bay at the moment. N/M just noticed the servos/solenoids on the front cover, must be out of an '07 or newer with the variable valve timing.

You might have a look over on V8 nissans (http://www.v8nissans.com/) as well, there's tons of VH45 swap information there and the guys seem pretty helpful.

Thank you for the support, I'll try to keep things updated here as much as I can but my job does have a lot of travel so when I'm home family takes priority.