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1969honda

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Everything posted by 1969honda

  1. ^^^^ Agreed! Please share pics or a thread if you have enough information, would love to hear and see more about how you fabricated everything and the performance differences you've noticed from the typical coil over setup.
  2. Little confused, do you currently have a 3.9 LSD R200 and the open 3.7? If so why don't you just swap the carriers between the two? Also very interested to see how the s10 double a-arms turn out, I don't have the knowledge to help there but, it should be quite the undertaking and educational.
  3. Nathan, if you hit the LS1tech.com marketplace it seems like there are always stock heads to be had. Here in Utah they are constantly for sale on the local classifieds for ~$200-400 a set depending on casting number and condition, sometimes far less. If you need s mock up set let meet know and I'm sure we can find some
  4. Do you need a F-M -10 AN or can you do a 1/2 MNPT to -10 male? Is there anyway you could re-thread for a 1/2 Banjo?
  5. Nissan Titan v8 has similar looking o-ring. I can get measurements if desired, I think a set is $15-20?
  6. Have you checked out AN fittings direct? They have a pretty extensive selection and prices don't seem to outrageous.
  7. Interesting project, keep us posted! And don't be shocked if the $12k goal gets hit early
  8. Looks amazing, can't wait to see how the cans and everything look!
  9. Love the way they blended the fenders back into the body lines on the rear and didn't just leave them cut off. Looks much better than some of the liberty walk stuff in my opinion. Beautiful looking car.
  10. Look at post #27, trucklite 7" LEDs slot right in, kinda heavy though. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119707-anyone-used-led-headlights-before/page-2
  11. Maybe it's just the picture angle but it looks like your holes are spaced differently on each hinge as well? Do you have hinges from the same model/series car? The early 260s and 240s have a different hinge and latch design layout than the late 260s and 280s. If you cannot adjust them from the same angle you removed, I would drill the threads out of the car side and tack weld nut on to each hinge bolt hole. Just make sure you have room for the nuts to be welded in place and not interfere with the door operation.
  12. Ever get this one figure out Xnke? I've looked at the millennia chargers several times and thought there has to be a way to fix them.
  13. Thank you for the files and the details on mounting height. These should give me a great starting point when I get to the rear suspension and drive train of my build.
  14. The drawing you posted is great, thank you. If you are willing to share your solid model of the diff that would be very helpful as well, my e-mail is jeremyw63d@gmail.com and I have solidworks 2014. Thanks again for the part data and sharing your build!
  15. TeemuM would you be willing to share who made your CV shaft adapters or a CAD drawing by chance? You're car looks really nice by the way!
  16. Good to hear it's slowly getting all back together and working out!
  17. Keep us all updated on how this works out, I'm on the fence about welding a sump on to my factory 240 tank this winter or getting an F-body.
  18. Stony is that the one I saw last night in Sunset on KSL? Looked like a pretty good deal from the pictures, can't wait to see where this goes.
  19. Wow, that's a of processing and tuning going on! Compliments to you for getting it all to talk together and cooperate
  20. I can't see a picture of the exact threaded insert your looking for, but hit up grainger, fastenal or mcmaster-carr and look for nut inserts, rivet-nuts , j-nuts or panel fasenters. They'll have any thread you could want. I think Harbor freight might even have a cheap threaded insert kit with the tool, yep here's a link; down side to this kit isit is for standard and not metric threads so you'll have to change hardware. Nut inserts in my experience tend to spin in their mounting holes if you try to tighten them down to much, so if it's something that requires a little muscle I would use weld nuts (little flat threaded tabs you can spot weld on the back side) or tack a regular nut to the back of what ever you are installing.
  21. Well still no real progress on the body or engine, did fix some picture links that got messed up though from the first page. I've also started to think about just rebuilding the engine with stock internals and getting it running and together before I commit any further to a forged rotating assembly and the ITB or supercharger. There's been some interesting ideas brought by VK Nation on facebook using the 06+ fx45 front exit intake manifold that looks really interesting and close enough to stock to use without major changes to the fuel system or anything else. It's got a designed in dual intake runner profile using a vacuum actuated set of butterflies that opens at higher rpms but closes at low rpms changing the intake tract from long on the low side and short on the higher end. It's pretty interesting, and I can get a manifold for under 300 with the injectors, actuator and other necessary bolt on bits.
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