softopz

Iam having issues with my injectors banks to. The only thing I can suggest for your injector issue. I know you didnt build the board but get familiar with it. Look at the assembly build guide on www.megamanual.com the part of building both PWM flyback damping circuit and standard flyback circuit. those are steps 69-71 make sure all the resistors, diodes and transistors are there. Do yourself a favour and get rid of the stock coolant sensor. tuner studio and megatune are pre-programmed for the GM sensors no need to calibrate. They are newer, probally more accurate, cheaper and way more to find. The threads are different but actually close take your thermostat housing off you dont have to retap but its recommended. DONT TORQUE TOO MUCH as is its aluminum and will easily crack. DONT CALIBRATE your tps with it jumping around you have a noise issue, I would check the ground. MS has is its own ground for all 3 sensors ground air, coolant and tps. That could solve your noise issue. this doesnt ground on you - battery but to ms ground PIN 19!! it has the triangle wire the fuel pump same megasquirt harness it is powered through ms and grounds relay DO NOT just wire it separately out of the EFI it is part of it.

double post delete me

Update I replaced both bank grounds still the same I ohmed out from the db37 to each injector plug I get 0 hms 32/33 and 34/35. I even shortened the split and wired them all equal length let me clarify this so I dont over look this simple thing both 32/33 tie in together to ground as one and split to 3 injectors, and the same goes for 34/35 is that correct? I got some progress on isolating the issue. when I put bank 1 to my other 3 cylinders they work! same as when I connect bank 2 to the others this isolate my ecu all together, and that my 2 bank grounds work fine. IT IS ONLY when I plug in all 6 I get no clicks from bank2 this is leading me to the way I wired my +12v source. Both banks are wired to 1 wire 12v+ and a 10 amp fuse not like the schematic shows each bank having their own +12v and a 5amp fuse. Its a little late know for me to annoy neighbors so I will try that tomorrow. So I guess my first ECU there was nothing wrong with it till I shorted something out! Matt, would wiring all the injectors to 1 pos 12v cause this? I had it like this before and it worked fine before maybe they could of got heated. Can there be any other reason besides this? like setting in tunerstudio single table or dual? or PWM settings?( I built the MS2 with both flyback circuits as recommended) and my pwm is set at 30 I am using low impedance 440cc skyline gtr yellow injectors. below is a msq Was wondering if someone can take a min to overlook all the setting thanks in advance 2012-09-30_20.34.50.zip

I ended up buy all new parts from digi key first for the complete 1+2 inj bank circuits. Its still wrapped and havent touched it. I decided to get a new ms2/stimulator unassembled to help familiarize myself with the cirucit board. This way I could also go back to my old one and fix it maybe even sell it. I spend the past two days building both stim and ms2 everything went well. I started loaded the latest firmware s19 file and started a new tunerstudio tune file and just imported exported my tables from megatune and the other little details i just manually input them. Not even 10 mins ago, I put the new box in she started within the first crank! I put a screwdriver to the injectors 123 and im not hearing anything I check 456 I can hear them going off. So Im still running on 3 cylinders!?!! this car is driving me nuts. I just plugged in the stim on with ecu/daughter board removed to trouble shoot driver on my new ms2 and when i jumper both 21 and 22 the lights dont come on (meaning something is wrong with my circuit!?) HOWEVER when i put the stim on with ecu and turn the rpm up and down both inj banks are firing. I dont know really what to do at this point looks like ill rewiring my whole efi harness (since I got a cleaner one from DIY thats asking to get wired) im going to also go back to first ecu and try to fix that one which I messed up trying to do the inj troubleshoot without stim now if i plug that in the car my main fuse blows right away! you got any ideas what that could be? i'll keep you guys posted if anyone wants to chime in go ahead throw me some ideas

Stony congrats on everything man I hear ya my car is been 7 years and its not nearly 10 % as modified as you but IM SO ANXIOUS and the tons of little BS that sidetracks and pop out of nowhere. So I can imagine 10%of how you feel haha keep the updates up

You are correct on the spraying patterns and atomization of fuel and I made a post concerning this issue quite awhile back thats why I ended up choosing the gtr injector. I was concerned with unburned and that fuel wall effect forgot the terminology. However lots of hbz members have been using 2 or 4 spray type injectors with no issues. I had actually both supra 440cc and the rb26dett injectors and the supra were off a dohc head with a 4 spray pattern. The gtr injectors were also off a dohc straight 6 and as car much newer but were identical pintle type to older z's. If you search my content im sure it's out somewhere I took some shots with them mounted on intake. At idle I can see this as an issue but if you can imagine at 2000+rpm the high velocity of air and immediate combustion of mixture wouldn't be a big concern.

I have ms 2 I didn't build mine but im not familiar with any of things you just mentioned. I have 3.0 board is the 3.57 that different? I suggest you call diyautotune since they built it for you to see if your running the right ignition input for your setup. This is a key step way before tuning and all that.

I'm using gtr rb26dett injectors yellow top they are low impedance some rbs are high I left the settings the same settings in ms2 as my l28et injectors. Recently my injector bank 2 stopped firing. Could it be my settings in ms done this ? Zya I'll send you my injector to test over the winter. I'm suprised how few of hbz users are not using them . They are Bosch ev1 connector, the size are identical to zxt especially spray pattern and how long they protrude in intake, except o ring top however I used them with hose and clamp never leaked for me.

You never answered me when I asked you how your ms ignition is setup on the board? Please say which jumpers you have in place..

Yes, set the motor at TDC compression stroke! then you also have to align the shaft with the oil pump there will be a hole punched with the shaft and its on pump this is key also good idea to put a bit of oil in pump so its not dry pumping. Slide through the hole and bolt the oil pump now your mechanical timing is good! ( i dont know about the chain and the rest of it though) bolt your dizzy from the top. now with your cap off dizzy at tdc you should see the rotor point directly at 1. if you dont something is definatly WRONG. then 153624 check your wiring i cant stress that. pull out fuel injectors clips off so your spraying fuel while diagnosing spark. check with timing light its very KEY it should flash to the timing marks 0-20 depending where your ignition maps is saying. do you have a timing light? if not borrow / buy or steal one. while running you should see about 17-20 advance on idle.

Hmmmm ecu from 81 was auto . The wiring is almost the same and uses a completely different type of ignition pick up hey bro not being an ass trust me and the other advice on here go with something more tunable you want reliability and better performance your not going to get that from a 30 year old ecu. So go aftermarket there's many choices or go with the z31 ecu it will probably be the cheapest and fastest conversion. You can also then add nistune and start the real tuning good luck.

I just quickly read everything so I am not sure if someone mentioned this but do you have the correct jumpers on the board for the type of ignition system (hall/optical) and VR I dont know if DIYautotune did the mods for you. Since you already made sure that you have power at coil, rpm and fuel.... thats the only thing I can think of or timing> when you installed the 280zxt You were suppose to allign the oil pump>shaft and dizzy.

Wow super clean Dave keep up the good work. Video request sounds nice when you get hour spark back in order.

I figured I proceed because I know inj2 doesn't work for a fact and only the beginning part of article related to stim. I'm going to swap transistors q5 and q1 if that doesn't work I'll do the diodes d5/d7 and q3/q11 from inj1 to inj2 circuits its crapshooting but I'm out of options. I'm kind of in a rush to get her going i already ordered all the parts from digi key

update : This could be a sticky and walk through for someone not getting injectors to fire! luckily I had just recently bought a ms2 assembled harness from you DIYautotune and I did not install it yet. I plugged it to the ecu and powered/grounded it to a battery. I figured I don't have a STIM but I can do some tests. This article will walk you through how to troubleshoot them. It is written for the V3.0 and V3.57 boards. The V2.2 is similar but the component names are different; see here for the component names. It does not cover the MicroSquirt, MS3X, or MSPNP Gen 2, which use different injector driver circuits. You will need the following tools: Stimulator or JimStim Stimulator power supply or 9V battery Volt meter Some lengths of test wire To begin with, remove the case lid and processor (or daughter card, in the case of MS2 or MS3) so we can concentrate on the main board, and power the ECU up on the Stim. The injector LEDs should be off. Use a bit of wire to touch the U1 socket pins 21 (in the upper left hand corner if you're looking at the board with the Bowling & Grippo text at the lower edge - the U1 socket is "upside down") and 22 (just below it) to ground. The injector LEDs should come on. If they do, the board is working correctly. If not, here's what to check to fix it. Time to get out the volt meter. for checking pins 2/4 in the off state I need help clarifying is this off for injectors(jumpered 21 and 22 on U or now power to ecu? so i removed daughter card and jumper 21/22 with wire LED don't come on But I believe its speaking of the LED's on STIM Correct me if im wrong. Mine dont light up but I moved on anyway I have trouble reading which ends I should see infinte continuity and which I should see resistance. for some of circuits. First, check pins 2 and 4 on U4. If they're not getting 5 volts in the off state, turn the power off and ohm out R14 and R17, and make sure you have continuity to the CPU. At pin 4 and 2 i put one lead of multimeter on pin 2 and the other on I am not getting power ON or OFF. I am not clear if I was doing this step right. R14 to pin 21 of U1 on the brown end of resistor I get 0hm, on the gold I get 10ohms. R17 to pin 22 of U1 on the gold end of resistor I get 0hm, on the brown I get 10ohms. U4 is an inverting driver. If you don't see its output on pin 7 go high when pin 2 is grounded, or pin 5 go high when pin 4 is grounded, you've got a bad U4. Same if it's stuck high when it gets 5 volts on the input. Note that if you have a 9 volt battery, the points I've marked at "12V+" are going to be lower, more like 8 volts. You'll usually see somewhere around 12 volts on a power supply. If you're seeing more like 10 volts, don't panic; it's still working OK. Time to move on. I don't have a Stimulator so I cant go high or low like its asking but this is what I managed to get.I see 12v off pin7 on U4 and when i put multimeter one lead to pin 5 and the other to pin 4 I get 6.25v Check the input signal on pin 1 of Q1 and Q5. It will be a little lower than the voltage at U4, but not by much. If the voltage has disappeared, power it off and check the ohms on R15 or R20 as appropriate. Either R15 or R20 has failed, or the transistor in the current limiting circuit (Q14 or Q15) has shorted out and needs to be replaced. First things first How do I know where is PIN1 on a transistor of the three PINS?! Iam getting 11.75v on both Q1 and and Q5 by putting positive lead to the left (if db37 connector is to the right of me) and negative lead to the right last pin. I then ohm r15 and r20 im getting 22ohm on both of them If the signal is making it to Q1 or Q5, but the injector driver isn't working, first check for continuity from pin 2 of the FET to the DB37. If that checks out, and the injector driver is failing to turn on, replace Q1 (for injector 1) or Q5 (for injector 2). If the injector driver is stuck on, it could be same transistor, but it could also be the flyback circuit. To find out which one it is, desolder D5 (for injector 1) or D7 (for injector 2). If the output is still stuck on, it's the transistor. If the output goes off, it's the flyback circuit. The most likely culprit is Q3 for injector 1, or Q11 for injector 2. ok pin 2 im guessing is the middle and I have continuity from Q1 and Q5 to db 37 wire .06ohms . Whats confusing is that im even getting same resistance if I have Q5 for bank1 and that transistor (q5) is for bank2? I tried this method with power to ecu and then I jumpered 21 and 22 of U1 and I got at the same Resistance. I didnt to second part of the the last step.

Hey Matt,thanks for the reply I did both tests I have voltage to all injectors and grounds are all the way good to db37 connector. On a side note the other day I broke pin 21 on the ecu daughter board but i fixed that and checked resistance. I had checked that link and that could the very answer I'm looking for however I don't have a stimulator and quite honestly I can't understand that schematic I'm going to ask around for some help and buy a stimulator EDIT i said pin 22 first its pin 21 of daughter card which happens to be part of injector driver circuit however its fixed and IM getting 0hm from the top of daughter card all the way to bottom of board.

ok now im positive its bank #2 that is not firing at all, i completely disconnected the bank pins 34 and 35 and the car runs the same. I should of noted Iam using rb26dett yellow injectors 440cc attached to post are my injector characteristics and injection control settings. Could someone throw me a bone here

I find its always the simplest things we over look, are you getting fuel? Are your plugs too wet try airing the motor out, pull plugs clean them up. Verify plug wires then timing order then ignition timing double check tdc. Since you say you got weak spark how is your battery ? What is you rpm signal with laptop hooked while cranking. Check voltage at coil make sure it's grounded well.

Plenty of tools and a multimeter, I dont have a scope,stimulator nor a node light.I KNOW the car is only running one bank properly those the spark plugs from one bank are so clean slightly wet. also the screwdriver I can hear them just swoosh and not click precisely open you know the crisp sound. should I just wired them all one one bank? edit Matt my car is know sporting the DIYautotune.com sticker on quarter window I just ordered a harness and a set of plugs from youz guyz h

After winter went to start the car found a million problems not there before. Basically my car is running on 3 cylinders the other fire but the plugs are clean and slightly wet. Even when I put screwdriver on injector for the first bank I can hear it click crisp the other bank 1 2 3 are not giving me a crisp click its like a wine. You guys know that there are 4 wires that make 2 banks for injectors pins 32, 33, 34 and 35 Mine are wired 32/33together to cylinders 1 2 3 and 34/35 to 456. I am not home right now So I dont remember what my MS2 setting I believe they are setup alternating. Do you guys have any advice how I can trouble shoot this or solutions ? My other issue is the fan it use to engage the relay I am using the same settings as I used before nothing changed the wiring is the same as well. I check the relay with another its fine. How can I test the fidle port?

my experience on wasted spark is you wont see timing gun consisently especially if your running thick supressed EMI shielded cables. goodluck

ANYONE??>?!?

yes and yes

SO I got the kit they (mckinneymotorsports) machined the bellhousing too. When I sent the bellhousing to MM I left the shim (thrust bearing washer) in the bellhousing and now I dont have one. I called nissan figured out which part I need and now hes asking me for thickness I believe he says it range from 0.8 to 1.4.... which one comes factory ? or do I measure the tolerance of play... than figure it out

As always moby you are always trail blazing here ....and doing all the hard work for us! much appreciated and keep us updated.