softopz

bump .. Anyone know the circuit that controls the fidle output?

Google megasquirt map sharing thread for some reason it should be a sticky here. I recommend cygeneux 's (sp?) tune. Just export > then import his ve and spark table see how it works out for you.

ya so I dont need to do any modifications to board. Thats what Iam trying to troubleshoot. its not driving the relay I want to know the circuit thats for the fidle.

pm sent

I might have what you need pm me

I have my old ms2 (works well the injector driver circuit is burnt) However I can fix it for you or you can deal with. with a full brand new harness untouched(brand New). and brand new stimulator assembled (Working to test ms2 box)

looking for a pair left and right z31 84-89 turbo axles they must have 4 bolt partern not the tripod 280zxt cvs style. some 300zx have those i need the 4 bolt. If you only have the tripod triangle bolt pattern axles then I would need the companian flanges that mate to it (stub axles) let me know what you have and asking price in the PM section thank you

Matt would this apply to ms2 I thought ms2 fidle output has enough amperage to act as coil on a relay. I didn't think some board modification were necessary.

I also tried that went from 0 to 1 then I lowered Coolant value so it will come on right away. I think I may have bridge the transistors if it was one of them. I just don't know what circuit controls the fidle out put

My car is officially on the road and its running very decent at 5 psi I am trying to iron out the little things. I got my old issues sorted out but things that I had "sorted" are now not working. In my previous ms2 box (replaced) It use to control fan through the fidle out. I assembled a new ms2 and its not controlling the fan. I followed the megamanual for assembly. On another note my external wiring hasn't changed its the same. I also checked the fan straight to battery its fine. I also tested two different relays and bench tested them they are fine. I also tested the end of my ms2 harness to the db37 I get continuity. How can I test the fidle output and which part of the board it is? I am running a relay like this. I didnt do these steps when assembling the board because I am not running a IAC and they do not apply to pin 30 22. Now you need to make a decision on the first 'optional' component: if you are going to use an IAC stepper motor with MegaSquirt-II, you must install a jumper from the hole marked S12C to the hole marked JS9 (+12C). These are on the bottom side of the board, on the DB9 side of the processor. DO NOT INSTALL THIS JUMPER FOR NON-MegaSquirt-II APPLICATIONS - IT WILL DESTROY THE PROCESSOR!! If you are going to use a stepper style IAC (such as the GM IAC), you need to connect jumpers to bring the controller signals out to the DB37: Connect (1A)JS0 (under the processor socket) to IAC1A (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC1A on DB37 pin #25 Connect (1B)JS1 (under the processor socket) to IAC1B (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC1B on DB37 pin #27 Connect (2A)JS2 (under the processor socket) to IAC2A (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC2A on DB37 pin #29 Connect (2B)JS3 (under the processor socket) to IAC2B (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC2B on DB37 pin #31 I also google'd around and saw someone wiring the fan exactly the figure above but added a diode Between 86/85 so current wouldnt flow back I imagine and damage the board. ie your driving and the fan spinning through wind creating current.

I'm running the same injectors. Why are running resistors they are low impedance just run pwm. Also what is your injector opening time set at?

Real nice stuff. Your making amazing progress. I'm shocked since your dumping so much money on drive train.Brake/suspension modifications that your going with the stock ecu. It doesn't add up. Stock ecu is outdated and problematic if you ask me.

1. look at your ignition outputs and shielding. 2. air/tps/coolant Sensor grounded to ms box. 3. Wait for your wires and plugs to get in.

As an update the issue was fixed, all the injectors are currently running even if I just pulled #2 out it would shut the complete bank off that's why this problem was so wierd. The new (old) replacement is not so good its leaking fuel I got sold a bad injector what more.... the Car starts very well and idles okay. I am having lots of issues with VE and Timing maps under load its popping and bucking. Time to get the wideband in that's been still new in the box and start learning I guess.

thats pretty slick indeed

Oh so its back?!

Hey billy they work actually well speaking of inj 1 and 3 whats weird is when 2 is plugged in none of them work! I guess cause The resistance is close to infinite and its disabling the bank all together. Since the coils on injectors don't really have a specific terminal of (-)(+) looks ill be pulling out all my injectors actually for cleaning and testing at a local shop thanks for all the help and congratulations for your running project! Hopefully your shakedowns are not as bad as mine. (trust me this is the begining)

Glad to hear everything is nice and running, No thank you for helping me actually. Hopefully I can return the favor.

OH SNAP, Its too early for me when I mean injector 5 its actually 2 Iam counting from the wrong end my apologies. So you could be even more right however, Iam pretty sure I have heard 3 click! I will shoot a new video of my discoveries.

I just measured the resistance on all terminals of my injectors. I get approximatly 2.1-2.3 on all except the injector for cyldiner 5. For that injector my reading is 0.6 I did some reading up on injector specs and it looks like that it could be bad. Question would that stop the rest of the injectors on that same bank from not firing? I will have to test later today I will keep you guys posted. I just want this issue to be over and done with, so I can work the new ones that will keep coming up

Looking for yellow top feed rb26dett injectors if you PM me Iam only interested in 1 but will take the whole set. These are yellow 440cc top feed bosche ev1 type 1 plug

No Billy , the brown is a ground same as red they provide the ground to fire the injector. The+12v is green and it a switched 12v+ through a 10amp fuse. You could be right about the injector except I have got them to work just like in the video. Whats wierd is when I measure the resistance for the injector i get 0? and from what I read between 1.5 and 4.0 Ohm, you have a low impedance injector and if the range is between 10 and 16 Ohm you have a high impedance injector.

Matt I just saw your post im not using any resistors. Heres a video of my explaining this issue http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yr9CHh3Jsc4&feature=channel&list=UL

No hi jacking I appreciate any and all input available this is a informative forum and this thread could help others in the future. I just hate those little transistors their so small! On the new ECU I know both banks work cause I tested it on stim the circuit is fine. And when I switch my bank wires they work its only when I put all six injector plugs only one banks works!? How did you wire your injector +supply?

zip msq files then attach