softopz

I work at a huge parts retailer/warehouse when I walk by the exhaust section quite often I always stare at this section of exhaust tubing. Its great for anyone wanting to fabricate 3" downpipe / exhaust. its got 4x 45 degree bends and a 160 degree The nice thing is its all mandrel bent not like the crush/wrinkle bent stuff. 51" long plenty enough for downpipe and a little more. Walker part# 45431 Used on CHEVROLET/GMC C1500 SUBURBAN 1994 - 1995 C2500 SUBURBAN 1994 - 1995 K1500 SUBURBAN 1994 - 1995 K2500 SUBURBAN 1994 - 1995 Class B Material Type Steel Finish Aluminized Inlet Count 1 Inlet Diameter 3.000" Inlet Diameter Designation Inside Diameter Inlet Connection Type Pipe Connection Outlet Count 1 Outlet Diameter 3.000" Outlet Diameter Designation Outside Diameter Outlet Connection Type Pipe Connection Overall Length 50.125"

Definitely need copper washers ! You may want to take your banjo to a autoparts store find the tightest one you find it cannot be even a little bit loose. Auto parts store usually stock up on Raybestos copper brake washers they will do fine.

Would help if you specify motor, car, year efi parts in question.

This post is almost a year old , Gravediggers. Ok ill play yes it is obviously a s30 however the front air dam spoiler is a 280zx you could even seen how its squeezed a bit more on the side. I personally dont like the look but I know exactly what you mean when you said " The more I look at the car, the more it starts to "grow" on me " I am the same way. Hence my name softop my 240z has a vinyl soft top some people dont like it. It definitely grew on me and its a thing I started not just to like but love on the car. Sad thing is I just took it off to do paint job.

This a nice picture the back round is on point!

ill try to shoot you a pic later today if I dont forget

Very impressed lots of great ideas . Its the little things that will make this build unique and stand out.

The companion flange is interchangeable I dont think the stub is. Oh and the companian flange will work only with 240z stubs 280z stubs need to be changed to 240z.

Good to know I could still bother you for help.

Great write up! thats what HBZ is all about. I am too interested in year of bronco and rotor part number.

I have done the calibration before and did it 3x again. I still have the issue I tried both outputs and tapping into a new one. I also ohm the pin23 o2 input f4om db37 and then it cut it shorter that didn't change a thing. My ms2 and innovate lc2 are grounded same spot as well It's definatly something with Ms2 or tuner studio. Any input?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW4XneD8U_s Here is the video. Yes I tried tapping the output for gauge, with gauge and alone. I also tried after the video programming both outputs the exact same. Then swapped both controller outputs to ms2 pin 23 and vice versa. The gauge reads fine and fluid like video even with other output . I am starting to think this is a problem with ms2 / wiring / tuner studio software

Yes I tried both outputs and tried programming.

I will try to get a video of it tomorrow. Believe it or not we just got at least 10 cm of snow this is is MAD.. By sticky I mean its not smooth it will stay stuck on an a certain AFR. And after revving it a while it will change to another AFR its not what I am seeing on the gauge which is not "sticky" its opposite like "smooth" and "fluid".

edit I was correct the factory default settings are Analog Output 2 1.1 V for AFR14 ---- 0.1 V for AFR15. HOWEVER I changed the output to be the same as 1 with LM programmer software to be the same as output 1. That did not change a thing and splicing pin 23 of ecu to the analog 1 ( with gauge ) is also sticky.

Ok I tried that and still it doesn't read as quick. The output is not narrowband I programmed both the same so it should get what the gauge is getting. Why is it that the DIYautone and Innovative instructions do not say to take the signal from one output. Even though I tried that it still not good. Sorry I made a mistake its not set that way. I tried Programming the output from the innovative controller to output is exactly like the gauge. In tunerstudio I set my project properties to lc1, even though I am using the lc2 should be the same right? , then ego control to single wideband and calibrate afr with lc1 0-5v still nothing . I also attached it to the same output as gauge. It shows the correct afr in Tunerstudio however its not responsive and "sticky"

I just installed my lc2 and cant get the output to read right in ms2 its a little "sticky". My analog 1 (yellow from controller) is hooked up to the wideband gauge and seems to be reading well. My analog 2 output is hooked up to pin 23 on db37 the factory default are: Analog Output 1 0.0 V for AFR7.35 ---- 5.0V for AFR22.39. Analog Output 2 1.1 V for AFR14 ---- 0.1 V for AFR15. According to the diyautotune FAQ it says For a long time we guided customers on how to re-program their LC-1 / LM-1 / LM-2 to output a slightly different signal from default. The goal of this was to increase the resolution of the signal in the range of AFR most users will spend their time in. We used to recommend programming the output you were using to send a signal that represented a 10-20:1 AFR from 0-5v. While in theory this is great and does increase resolution a bit, in practice it’s not really needed and is probably more trouble than it’s worth for most users. We now recommend leaving the analog outputs on your LC-1 / LM-1 / LM-2 at their default settings (which is 0v = 7.35:1 AFR, and 5v=22.39 AFR). Proceed to configure the TunerStudio tuning software to allow your MegaSquirt EMS to properly talk to your LC-1 / LM-1 / LM-2 do the following: The issue is analog 1 is being used for the gauge ( could I just tap into this signal for ms? ) I used the LM Programmer and made the analog output 2 the same as 1 default 0.0 V for AFR7.35 ---- 5.0V for AFR22.39 In turner studio set it into project properties, ego control and calibrate afr table . I tried various configuration from LM controller (re program) and in tuner studio my gauge in tunerstudio is pretty sticky and doesn't read the exact same. My innovate controller is grounded also to ms2 grounds. Any ideas?

I Dig it actually

I am going through this exact issue at the moment. However mine is not a tps switch like the older z its a sensor (potentiometer) With my new manifold Its now counterclock wise opening vs clockwise. I did some research whats going to work with me (I also check with SDS ) is mount the sensor in fully opened in the D slot with a custom bracket locked in and just switch the + - wires. I dont know if that will work with the z31 it should just test with your multimeter between the pins first on a bech. Or you could get a different TPS that opens the right way, Also I agree with last poster I doubt your CAS is broken if your idling and running fine

I may Have an extra Ill let you know in a couple of days since its in my storage !

Very nice. Which axles are you running for your later diff? And what we're you doing with that lathe

I have the turbo afm, turbo to afm boot, jpipe and turbo.

Had mine for 2 years now love them!!

Where did you buy this from and do they have any other sizes

Awesome , I will give that a shot!