softopz

you pretty much got it. Just remember to punch or number the main bearing caps, rods, cam tower caps. Then check tolerances with plastigauge. dont forget coreplugs. Good idea on the 2+2/turbo flywheel

dont just get the axles get the companian flanges that the axles bolt to ! swap it to your 280z while your at it take the diff too and disk brakes.

yes it would work there is a sticky about it in this forum z31 turb ecu anyways I have all the parts if your looking for swapping efi the z31 has a much better system with tuning support with JWT , eprom, and nistune!

yah I havent seen too many ms "ebc" that actually works hb280zt here is what your looking for ! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1073956 Iam getting one for sure. no way iam playing with ms for something like boost control or paying crazy for greedy ebc

palmettoz exactly thats my concern with more than one spray pattern it will be wetting the walls and dripping down . Thats why I want to port the intake manifold but before that document it before and after I am running MS2 all I have to do is put in the settings for the 440'cc, you guys all raise good points. My original concern was dripping/wetting of the walls and it not running to its full potential. I complelety agree with you BRaap the difference will not be that big when driving aroound pulling loads of vaccuum or loads of boost. However this is more intend to having a nice clean, smooth burning idle and not stinky. I am going to go ahead and port the manifold since the head has a nice little port job. I cant go to as far as more than 3 inch's inside runners cause of limited tools, it wouldnt hurt. can anyone confirm the sticky? use the stock zx seal at the manifold. Some members said they bought a seal kit and just use different ones.

My logic is quite simple better atomization better mixture = better ignition burn. especially with a bigger injector and 4 spray pattern, at idle I imagine this will drip down in head and cause a rough rich idle. I have already ported my head similair to this pic from Braaps thread on big and nasty head work. However not as aggressive and nice as a port job. I ll take some videos/pics of mine with stock injectors mounted to intake manifold spraying in a clear platic box, then Ill do the same test with the supra injectors. I will then repeat it with the manifold ported and injector body shortened. If anyone could chime in maybe stop me if this is a bad idea hehe or maybe some opinion or specifically how I should shape the walls of injector body...specifically the end I notice they all have a crease in them probally to give it a pouring/ spraying affect.

thats interesting, I am going to try that side index while I am doing my port to the intake. My thoughts are exactly like yours dave its all about better firing especially atomization of the fuel. Not to long ago I did a mild port job to the head... especially after reading BRaap thread for head modifcation I concentrated allot on the upper area where the fuel is being sprayed by injector. My concern is when I install the supra injectors they dont protrude as much in the manifold like the zxt injector this will cause dripping into manifold and poor ignition of mixture/poor idle. Ill be seeing the difference it will do with that area ported to match like the head is. More in my post here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=156370 tomorrow ill mount all the stock injector in a clear platic box and take video of spray pattern then do the same for the supra injectors. Then re do the test with the injector body ported .

So I have the intake manifold pulled out ready to throw on the supra 440cc injectors. I was planning on port matching the the manifold to my already ported head. I had a couple of concerns on what O rings/ seals to use. To the left I have the zxt injector and the right the supra injector. Notice how the zxt injector protrudes more in to the manifold than the supra injector. Will this be a problem? I am thinking the fuel is going to spray against that wall and drip into the head instead of atomize. Since Iam going to port the head I was thinking of just removing that materal is my logic right? The second thing is which seals to use? I read in the injector upgrade thread "Toyota Supra 1987-1992 - This is an o-ring injector 11mm. Injector electrical clips need modification or swap. Use stock seals at manifold and not the Supra seals." I tried that but it will make it protrude less. Is there a need for injector body mounts? How about sealing where the rail meets the injector do I need another Seal there...or the one on the injector is all there is? I got my injector plugs and O ring fuel rail I was going to bench test everything especially after porting to see the spray patterns and all I will take pics and document it for the forum.

Well since you have megasquirt get cracking! you have allot of reading to do. get the harness , and sensors and start building the thing. For cam Iam not too sure wouldnt hurt throwin in aftermarket cam or getting a re grind. Search up stroker set ups and cams. As Braap said there is a ton of info especially written from him in the stickies! ya you can run on your stock efi , but remember the tune is different and your engine has been heavily modified for sure it will run but like Braap said its backward mods; if your intent on just getting it running than ya put your stock efi and you can start building your MS on the side and research.

How to set timing on edis from scratch? its laid out clearly in the megamanual -set engine on 1 compression stroke. -missing tooth of EDIS triggor wheel must be 6 teeth ahead -thats your intitial timing and should be very close you should check with a light though. -set EDIS in limp mode which will give it a 10 degree BTDC (you can simply remove the db37 connector or the PIP wire) -now get a timing light and see where it lights up set the sensor on #1 plug wire and crank her up remove spark plugs so engine can spin faster but dont forget to ground the spark plug on metal. - this procedure should light up on 10 degree btdc if not adjust wheel or through your trigger offset in megatune. - your timing maps can be obtained from the msq sharing thread , which you can fine tune.

hey zr8ted you poking fun lol Iam just throwing ideas based on what dave was giving us. I also suggested... and i quote from my post #20 -Did you put your old plugs back and see what happened? you had said that was some of your recent changes. that would be the first thing I would do. aha that was one suggestion and others that were plausible. anyways back to discussion Iam going try this on my l28et EDIS I do have some misses here and there.

1fz what nice work you have done. From what I have read your running a copper headgasket. My question is does the block HAVE to be O ring for a copper headgasket setup...cause Iam looking for a thicker headgasket for the L28et and cant find anything except copper. I know you have to heat it up first and make sure its really clean, and also its re usable, but I havent got a for sure answer about the O ring part.

When you replaced the timing cover did you re use the gasket? if so did you put sealer in the areas that is recommended in the fsm? How about the oil pump gaskets these are very thin and it doesnt take much for them to leak.

The LSD came in late 87 . I too bought a 300zxt 87 to find it had an open diff. I have an LSD for sale if you guys are interested.

I just helped a friend installed wolf creek racing setup looks good so far but this was really recent. It is a nice kit though.

Ok back to the post. Dude dont install that ray jay kit its going to be a head ache your setup LOOKS SICK spend that money on a stroker! or if your really intent on turbo. sell the tripplies and that could offset your value like I said, keep your turbo , downpipe, get a manifold injectors and EFI ( which ever you like search ) edit or cross transform that tripple setup . gut them, tap a fuel rail in build plenum box over ooooooo nice

Iam very impressed I was going to put a sub in the spare tire area. But you sir to it to a next level.

autometer phantom for me except stewart warner tach which matches exactly except for font...

WOW even the engine cross member is different?

this is the rayjay turbo kit that was available in the lates 70's and 80's, Iam sure if you do some searching you will find the schematic for the kit. I wouldnt recommend running it your better off using just the manifold turbo and downpipe and use the fuel injected intake and go with MS , nistune or some other ECU. This will be definatly hard to tune.