softopz

I agree with the most of the above statements. Frst you need to open that ecu and see what ignition input its for etc. Secondly that harness will look so fugly when trying to extend it. Either get the 8ft harness from online if you want to do it yourself. If you want a plug and play solution I got you covered. Check the group buy section here I am making a full harness to drop in for ms. 2 versions one full efi harness with all.plugs and sensors required and one with relays and fuses which will minimise more. I could also set up your ecu as well based on your hardware ifnition/ injectors base map loaded.

MODERATOR PLEASE CLOSE THIS THREAD ! THANK YOU MOVED TO VENDOR FORUM Iam now an authorized MS vendor via Amp EFI/DIYautotune. Any products from DIY autotune I can sell. Any sale made through hbz will have a 2-5% donation to the forum ( varies from product to product ) the least I could do for the forum. Any product will be the same price as listed on DIY website and any warranties will still be covered. Also my plug and play harness will still be for sale here as well as more new efi products for hbz so be sure to keep following the progress. Original post I just happened to complete a full plug and play ms2 system was wondering if there was interest in doing some more seeing as FricFac is not doing any more . I can make them for the less cost and will include much more. Allot of hours has been put into this harness and will clearly show pictures don't do it justice. To make this worth while I would need 3-5 to start. The Essential harness will be $400 It will include: - 8-10ft harness color now 12 ft minimum coded with diagram , ignition input shielded for noise cancellation, 1 wire end to end not a hack job. all new plugs and sensors - 6x EV1 sealed injectors plugs quick disconnect - 1x GM coolant temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x GM air temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Throttle Position sensor with sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Crank Angle Sensor with plug OR l28et distributor input ( you supply plug ) - loom supplied new - lowered price from$ 490 to $400 - AMP DB37 METAL clamshell connector - GXL wiring (heat and oil resistant) - 12ft length at no extra charge! ( shorter length and custom layout available ) - labelled every 3 inches - extra FIDLE, IAC 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B wires The Full Package Harness + Relays + Fusebox will be $750 will include: - Everything from Essential Harness - Main and Fuel pump Relays - Fusebox: Labelled with fuses for fuel pump, coil, ecu, 2x injectors banks. With 2 spare connections for wideband / boost controller. - 16 ft power to fuel pump and 10ft power to coil (crimped and soldered) - Main Power to battery with fuse connectors, 8ft ground for relays, 8ft switched power for relays. (crimped and soldered) - NOTE LAST 4 OPTIONS I could connect , crimp and solder everything. OR just include and label the obvious reason being placement of ECU is different for everyone - plenty of loom supplied - new - AMP DB37 METAL clamshell connector - GXL wiring (heat and oil resistant) - 12ft length at no extra charge! ( shorter length and custom layout available ) - labelled every 3 inches - new relay/fusebox can handle 6 relays ie fan(s), lights, etc with 6 FUSES typical install uses 3-4 leaves 2 spare wideband , boost gauge etc - extra FIDLE, IAC 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B wires extras options available 4 cylinder harness, 8 cylinder harness, trigger wheels for CAS ecu panel mount custom length wires. Mega squirt hardware assembly. PM for extra options and more info.

Why dont you piece together yourself go on rockauto and get the 84-89 early s12 toyota caliper thats all it is and spend the money and good pads . The vented version is the later caliper s12w marking with 300zx 4 bolt caliper get the spacer of Silvermine I actually have one brand new if you want to go the vented route with pads. I have done both between solid and vented same thing just if you are really spirited in braking the vented comes along better in cooling. The next best brake upgrade is the bigger brake master you have two direct swaps the 15/16 bore size off early 280zx (vertical flange) and the wilwood 1" cylinder they are on practically every site just do searching silvermine/jegs/summit/zcar/msa depot etc . The rear I have done twice and can honestly say I dont see an improvement just better for serviceability and look factor.

Sorry to bring this up from the dead. Has anyone confirmed this? I know the carriers are identical inside because all the aftermarket Quaife unit list for all r200 from 280zx 300zx s13 s14 200sx ANY R200 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quaife-ATB-Helical-LSD-differential-FOR-Nissan-R200-QDF7L-/191538641132?hash=item2c9897b8ec:m:mJ6248YxFGZjx7lsASbwovg&vxp=mtr I have always wondered if you are swapping a carrier how does your axle input shaft still work I thought s14 have different spline count ? If that is the case why or how come this has been overseen especially in terms of cv axle swap with a custom companian flange? Or even especially considering the other end of the 240sx is a tripod design couldn't we just use the 280zx companian flange. IF the cv is too long it could be shortened?

Nicest dash I have seen very nice .

https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/TachAdapter $10 seems like a good solution and you dont even have to pull out your tach.

You have 3 options use the later tach. There is a mini circuit board option if you google you will find it . from classiczcars beermanpeteThe 4 wire tach 240Z tach uses a current sensing circuit on the positive side of the coil. With the original points type distributor the +12V (black wire) connected to the ballast resistor. The green/white wire runs from the other side of the ballast resistor to the tach. The black/white wire returns from the tach to the positive side of the coil. To get the tach to work you need to connect the solid black wire to the green/white wire (remove the black wire from the coil) and connect the black.white wire to the coil. I wish I knew this before I went with aftermarket gauges. From what I understand and seen here on HBZ guys with MS2 and EDIS which essentially the same type of coil pack. You bypass the ballast resistor run the tach from the 3 terminals of coil pack with diodes I believe straight to tach.

You should.contact smoking geez in Hudson qc

Really nice !

I got some check your PM

very good idea I just went through same thing, Or just the columns in general always break. I also like the idea of the mount ring for aftermarket gauges. Also cause I just went through this. I am suprised no one mentioned series 1 ashtray those are expensive for nothing. How about the glove box logo? for 280z its on top I think

Dont undo your wires. Now start the car and see what the alternator is charging at pos and earth. then unplug T connector see if it changes. I took the the time to write a step by step process to fully diagnose your charging system you only did half of it and your asking for suggestions " ideas or tests" Search how to use resistance on multimeter watch a video on youtube to see some functions of a multi meter. While your at it search how to diagnose alternator, and charging system I give up spoon feeding for today.

Well turn it on and see! hold one before you do hopefully you didnt do any serious damage. So you had the positive that suppose to go to (battery ) I think through starter on the earth (ground) of alternator? I am surprised you were running. THE POS terminal on the alternator should have plastic/rubber between the housing and its labeled BAT. Secondly are you sure your multi-meter is on the correct probes I know it sound silly but double check your colours . Rather you switch them now than really fry sh*t up. The only possible way I I can think of that you didn't burn fusible links/charging wire is if your BAT on alternator isnt hooked up to POS on starter OR your BAT POS isnt hooked up HOT ( POS ) on starter. Make sense? Thirdly if you checked multi-meter and confirmed it isnt the probes simply by testing them on battery or alternator. Are you getting -12v reading on the multimeter on BAT on alternator with it connected to the RED probe and black connected to earth?!?!?! Check voltage at battery terminals. Also keep your + probe on + battery and switch - to engine / alternator just to see if its a ground issue. Check voltage at starter + (hot) terminal on starter and - use the starter body, and switch the ground probe to the - on battery see if there is any difference. YOU SHOULD READ SAME AS YOUR BATTERY VOLTAGE if not then you got a + or - from bat to starter is not connected properly , BUT I highly doubt that cause your car starts! With the car off Check voltage at alternator using the BAT for + and body of alternator as - , then keep + lead of multimeter on BAT and switch - to neg battery YOU SHOULD READ SAME AS YOUR BATTERY VOLTAGE if not you need to connect that thick ass wire from BAT to + of starter. Start engine. do the same last test you should be at least charging 13.5-14.2v at your alternator. If your not rev it up a lil doesnt need much. You either have a bad alternator, loose belt, or wiring . If its your wiring pull out the T connector and you should start overcharging non regulating and will spike up to 14.7-17v . If you are charging but not getting it to the battery then do same first 2 checks in reverse order and work back. Good luck

So test the alternator with a multimeter like Greeko Mentioned. And work back

The l28et has very low compression and was "overbuilt safety net" compared to most common turbo engines. I dont see why a decently built l28et running 10-13psi intercooled 8 hours shouldnt be a problem with a proper tune. ARP hardware not a must but would be good at those extremes and stay from felpro headgasket OEM for head and manifold.

Its a long shot but considering you removed your cam cover and coilpacks. I'd look there first probably cam sensor plug

It was sold as a clsd from an 88t and was through facebook :S

That is not the same sensor or way it mounts. The way it mount its different and comes with a pigtail mine is completely different. Im going to get some shots later tonight and measurements of the inside of axle splines . Its not a shiro , shiros dont have this sensor.

It definitely looks vlsd however when I spin one side of the input the other side does spin the same direction? I know on most LSD it suppose to spin the same direction however the viscous works on pushing fluid through gears ( correct me if I am wrong )and there is obviously no fluid in this thing. I haven't had time to count gears but from what I remember counting before it was 30. Seattle don't worry your not in trouble with me. ( not just yet ) However I did some research for it on google and hbz and the only r200 *** long nose ** with ABS sensor came in a m30 unless this was swapped at one point. I message the OP he says he got some axles to work we shall see. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117517-long-nose-r200-with-abs-sensor/

I will count the splines I think I counted 30 last time but I will double check. JMortensen is there Stubs or axles we could use with this setup to make it work either with 280zxt companian flanges or 4 bolt z31t? or did my friend just loose $600 on this diff edit I just saw the pic which I seen before posting this topic, doesnt tell me much what axles or stubs those are. infiniti j30 tripod mated to a custom axle? Well besides the SS I think this is another VLSD in a long nose. Do you know any other Diff with ABS sensor on flange

They dont fit as in different spline count. It is a VLSD I could see the spider gears and way its made in carrier. The CLSD looks nothing this.

A friend of mine bought this differential as an advertised 1988 300zx turbo diff (clsd) not ss vlsd. When it arrived he immediately noticed the axles dont fit (280zx cv turbo axles). We opened and it looks to be a vlsd unit so we thought it was a 1988 shiro diff with special spline count. However the differential has a sensor on it which looks to be ABS maybe right on the snout in the front from my understanding the 88ss never came with any traction/abs control. Attached are some pics of the r200 long nose. I did some research which leads me to say it could be from a infiniti m30 .

The nissan OEM one should be a paper/graphite/metal. I also found non oem in that same material and like them

Dump the stock stuff its outdated garbage

Retails anywhere from 45-65 canadian or if your a junk yard dog you get it off that application.