Forrest

That looks wicked!

If you're going with a T3, the GT35R seems like a pretty good choice, but if a t4 is what you want, why not get someone to cut off the flange and replace it with a T4 flange? That shouldn't be out of the question, right?

I was very happy with him.

We don't have streets over here, so much as piles of rubble with traffic lights every so often. Overall it's subjective, but the relative ride quality between HPs and Illuminas is very obvious to everyone I know who has run both....here. I'm sure in CA it's not such a big deal.

I've run the HPs and Illuminas, and the Illuminas feel much harsher, even on "1", than the HPs ever did. I called Tokico and they claim the HPs should feel like Illuminas set on 2.5 (if that was possible.) That has not been my experience (or any of the many other Z guys I know locally who are running them.) It's probably a lot worse for people living around here, because our roads are so ridiculously bad. But my car handled great with the HPs, and it felt much more comfortable, so I'm taking the Illuminas out.

3rded!!!

What bugs me is that people are saying this wasn't national news? Our power grid is worse than New Orleans was 3 years ago. WTF? "George Bush doesn't care about Baton Rouge people." Still no power.

Baton Rouge is TOAST! 100% without power after the storm. 80% without power for most of the week. I think they got a few more people online today, but still no power at my house. Trees through houses on every block...of the entire city and for miles and miles around. Worse than Betsy by far. And just about the time about half the people get the power back, we'll get hit by Ike. Awesome.

I used Eastwood's tank lining kit, and followed their directions to the letter. It has worked out extremely well. It's been 2.5 years now, none of the coating has come loose, and all the rust was removed (there was a lot) by the process before the coating was applied. The downside is that doing it right took me a total of about 12 hours, and it was miserable work. But the total cost was about 80$ for their kit, 2 gallons of hydrochloric acid, and 2 quarts of phospho-rust (not required but I think it helped.) That's a lot cheaper than the 500$ a friend of mine paid for a coated tank, and at least I know I did it right.

Blake cleans up and paints everything he sells. It goes a long way. I think it (might be) a little disingenuous to call spraypainting a "coating", but hey, I don't begrudge him a dollar. His customers are happy.

Damn, cut me some slack...thats as close to scale as you can get with a 12 pixel height. I actually took some side shots of real cars and photoshopped them to fit the space on the watch in order to get the pixel dimensions. Trust me, you can't get it closer than that. And Ace and Gary's car was poking fun at all the 70's sports cars, so maybe that's appropriate.

It's actually a heart rate monitor, so...it can make me run fast enough so that I can work toast into my calories. Delicious buttery toast...how I miss you.

Right? Right? Because it has a file system, I was able to change the logo. And those are flares, not wheel gap!

Funny that this thread has been revived. With the help of a friend of mine (who has just installed a hydraulic handbrake inline with his wilwood rears!) I installed the wilwood porportioning valve a week ago. It made a huge difference. I don't understand why, but it absolutely did. My pedal still feels like there is a lot of slack on top, but my friend said when he swapped in a new booster, it took a lot of adjustment in the piece that connects to the brake pedal to get rid of that slack. I would think that would only change pedal height and not slack, so I was surprised. But I will try that soon. Once you get past that slack at the top, the pedal feels perfect. I have hope for the first time in over a year. Can't wait to get the last bit worked out, and then hopefully get one of those hand brakes for myself!

Exactly!!! It's worth the extra 20% to drive at WOT all the time.

I promise I wasn't exaggerating anything, and I'm not the only person that has happened to. Do you know why your car caught on fire? Do you have a way to change your behavior so that you can be reasonably sure it won't happen again? The problem is that you CAN'T check the lugnuts on the adapters without taking the wheels off. If one of the adapters is not 100% perfectly flush (which can easily happen when placing them over wheels hubs, depending on design), it will get bound up when you are torquing it down. Your torque wrench will show everything being fine, and then the first time you hit a bump and it is unbound, it will loosen very slightly. It might be days or weeks until the nuts work themselves off, but you won't have much warning. Guys who "drift" while using spacers are probably changing their wheels that day. They (hopefully) check their spacer lugs every time the car goes out on the track. There is a big difference between track cars and daily driven cars as I was very careful to specify earlier.

You'll understand if one of those adapters comes loose and suddenly you're flying off the road with no control over your car. Ask me how I know. It's scary as hell, and psychologically damaging. I could never daily drive a car with adapters again. Any slight noise or vibration and I had to pull over and double check all my wheels. (I had very little warning when my wheel came off.) I was a nervous wreck until the new tires I ordered came in and I put the old wheels on a shelf (where they remain to this day.) And of course you can't check the lugnuts on the adapters without taking the wheels off. If you decide to use them, use a lot of the green loctite. Be extremely careful centering the adapters over the hubs and making sure they are torqued down evenly and are perfectly flush. Don't listen to music while you're driving. If you hear any strange noise, pull over and check your wheels. I feel I was very careful installing and using the adapters I had, and it wasn't enough. We're just trying to save your life, so don't take it the wrong way. Best of luck.

Mission accomplished! I told Gabe you guys had better make a video. I'm a little disappointed in the lack of burnouts, though.

I know exactly where the map readings are taken from. I thought my question was pretty clear. I was asking if you were implying, in your statement specifically about EFI with this plenum, where you said gas mileage would "go to hell", that it would go to hell because the map readings were inaccurate and a MAP based system would provide a mixture richer than it was supposed to for a given pressure vs RPM point of the fuel map. I only have a problem with the statements that were potentially misleading, because they weren't clear. The reason I hang out here and not Zcar.com is because people discuss these kind of things instead of having misinformation floating around, just because someone might get angry if their word wasn't taken as gospel truth. You DID NOT qualify MANY of your statements, especially the initial ones. The original poster has Megasquirt listed in his signature. It seems reasonable to assume he wanted to use the plenum with an EFI setup. He never said anything about carb'd applications, you brought them up. You made many negative statements about the cartech manifold that were unqualified as to which type of fuel delivery application you were referring to. I was certainly not trying to make "smartass" comments. I was actually trying to keep things a little lighthearted by saying I wasn't going to throw my plenum out with the garbage. I was doing so because I got the feeling you were getting defensive - clearly I was right. If you get riled up so easily when someone asks you to clarify sweeping negative statements about aftermarket parts, maybe you shouldn't make them. I can't stop you from taking it personally, but it wasn't meant that way. I just want people reading this site to have the best information possible, and if this is what it takes to save all those cartech manifolds from getting scrapped, so be it.

Fine, the map sensor reading taken WITH a smaller plenum. I think you knew what I meant. Improved throttle response makes it harder to drive conservatively, certainly. But I think that's why most of us went with ITB's in the first place. I think I'll hold off chucking my cartech plenum in the bin.

I was thinking this too. I'm running ACT kits with stock master and slave cylinders on both cars, with no problem...

Did you grease the input shaft and the inside of the TOB collar? I once bought a car from someone who had recently swapped the transmission and neglected to do this. The result was exactly what you are talking about - after a couple thousand miles corrosion made it stick and the clutch wouldn't fully disengage - it was most obvious in first or reverse because they have shortest gear ratios.

Let me put it this way...I could have bought a brand new 350Z for less.

He ran over a Z? Glad he got shot.

Ouch! Where from? I think my whole kit was only 315$ from nipponpower.