ModernS30

unavailable... lol. The guy I am getting the bumpers from also has a 260z, not sure if it is an early or a late though but as far as I understand the early mounts will work on 280z.

Welcome, the fuse box is not very hard, if you have not seen the atlanticzcar write up just go to my build thread, I believe I linked it in on the 3rd page? 2nd or 3rd for sure just check it out, very easy to do, everything works better, stables idle and all. Also check the light switch for a charging issue ( I know random right) but the guage may not be working proper just because of this.

The lugs are a pain too they like to loosen up, I hope you re torque them often. I work at a tire store, I plan to keep them balanced. =P tape weight aren't nice, especially in the cold. We literally boil the glue to get them to stick, but they don't throw after that, and if they do we use all purpose cement for them (no this doesn't damage the wheels) Looks like I am going to get some 240z bumpers for FREE! I just need to make the 3 hour drive to pick them up and then the materials to make mounts, I am going to use the stock 280z bumper strut mounts onto the mount points for the 240z bumper on the front and the tow hook mounts for the rear I think. I will be looking up the rear one. Front will go on first as I want the looks bad. the rear will go on when I can figure out how I want to mount it. I am told they aren't in great shape so I am probably gonna do my best to make them look alright and then just spray paint them with high quality silver unless the chrome is good enough to just leave them that way for a while.

Well, I got to drive it and the steering wheel moves a bit more, the wheels could be bent but I did the balance (they did balance out) without a heat gun in the cold so I think I lost a tape weight on one, if not both, front wheels. Tomorrow after I am off I am going to rebalanced the front because it didn't do this right after putting them on but it did today. I do know one of the tape weights didn't stick very well so this is probably the issue. Might be getting 240z bumpers soon but we will see.

I am sorry, I was typing in a hurry. I will try to slow down because I do understand how hard it is to understand what I am saying when I do that. Big-Phil got 388WHP and 403FT/LB from a stock engine. I have an idea of taking a 240sx twin cam head and sectioning it like the L31DETT on here. After I do that not bolting it together just going to use it for measurement purposes. I will then take all the measurements and put them into a program like CAD or something. Then I will try to get a mold made where I can pour custom cast twin cam heads that will bolt onto the L block. Like I said, this is an idea, it probably won't become reality because its much more hard than it sounds. After putting it in CAD though it could get CNC machined. A big problem is you would still run into the how to do the timing chain issue and the what cams issue. I have no intention of turbo soon because I see other things being more important. I will only go turbo when I need a new engine or have the time/money. Which may be this summer but I don't expect it to be even though I will have access to plenty, and I mean PLENTY of tools. I hope this was a little easier to read, if there are any suggestions on my writing you have please do let me know. I am also interested in seeing how a stock L24 handles nitrous. I believe sticky280zx has a carbed l28 with a 125 shot that made good power before the nitrous, not sure about after.

So your saying rod bolts main bolts, pretty much just upgrade your hardware to ARP stuff or something and pistons and rings and you should be set long block wise. Then you do what I hope to do and put a section franKAnstien head in CAD and make a casting bolt and make the head and build it. Then you can figure out the cam issue and timing chain issue and you should have an engine ready to handle some big power?

Not sure if this is true or not, but I was told an l24 has forged internals (yes I am kinda a noob) I still believe they are cast but if they are forged then I would imagin' it could handle a small shot of nitrous if doing right as mentioned above.

This is why I tried to post a DIY that never got posted, I believe the admins decided they didn't like it? Are you sure your switch is in the ON position?

Good thing too cause I don't have that. haha, like I said, mostly everything over there is gone. No more fusible links, no more external voltage regulator, no more nasty wiring plugs, I put it all into the loom/ got rid of it. I now have maxi fuse, internal voltage regulated zxt alternator and I just put all the wiring inside the harness and just left the tips of the plugs exposed even though I don't think I will ever need them I can't just take them out of the harness without pulling the dash and taking the entire thing apart.

People in new mexico are babies, the only big problem is they don't like salting anything, so when we get snow, then its gets warm enough to melt, then it turns into water but doesn't drain anywhere and stays cold enough it won't evaporate, then it gets late and cold again, the all we have is ice, EVERYWHERE!

I haven't used that welder but that's a great price, used I am going to guess. I like mig a lot better than arc welding, you'll never want to arc weld again.

Picture can either be posted from photo bucket or you can use a URL of the picture and you click the little mountain button thing above and add it. I will answer as soon as I see a picture because I too have a 77 280z. The passenger side of the bay is pretty well cleaned up for me so there isn't much left on that side.

Got let out at noon today and we have 2 hour delay so far, everything is frozen, almost totaled the taco earlier, hit a curb when I hit ice and just went sideways, about hit a sign... LOL. Everything was ok though after I got the truck slowed down. I still had to work and people were still buying tires, since I started working at discount I have been amazed, I never thought selling tires was such a great business. Man labor is expensive too, I love the idea of opening up my own shop someday. I will be sure to do so when I can. haha, I plan over the summer to make some custom parts for the z and if that goes well maybe I can start a production of certain parts if they are wanted. Thanks for the compliments guys, I am loving the way she is starting to look.

I put the new wheels on but haven't got to drive it since I have except with the old wheels in the back, I don't think it will feel any lighter but hey, you never know, with the interior pretty much stripped, 120 lbs of bumper gone and some natural weight reduction. It is super amazing how much lighter these wheels were compared to the stock steelies even though they were wider. Stupid snow messing up my fun.

Yea, I was like sweet lost at least 50 pounds.

I was surprised how much lighter my new wheels are compared to the steelies.

That's a yes, you will have to rewire the lights, just do it right, solder them and heat shrink them. I am sure there is more you have to rewire but there is a guy in roswell with a 240z that has a 280z harness and an l28 and everything. He said just the lights need rewired but I am not sure if he had done any other wiring splices. Just use the 240z light pigtails (from the chassis harness to the light harness) and wire them on, just take your time and make sure you use the right ones.

YAY! Welcome to the lovely world of working on cars, especially 30+ year old cars with abuse from owners over the years. Also, with the wiring I remember you talking about fully rewiring a car before. Why don't you use the blue cars harness for now? if you do a full harness swap you should be alright. I have found some crap in my car that I didn't like. Most of it has been fixed. I am just taking my radio completely out because I would rather not have such a crappy setup. I will probably be taking out the heater too because I never use it. Not even in the freezing cold, but maybe I should keep it for days if the car doesn't end up in the garage and the windows frost.

Let me quote myself from another site, oh and thanks Justin, yea, I just got it cut, I like it, its so much lighter now, and it looks pretty good, way better than the crazy mess I used to have.

That's cool, so long as he still sends out his products and everything. It seems like everything has been going o.k. just seen a few people saying communication is bad and that is something I am big on.

YAY WHEELS! LOTS O PICS!

I always get this from people. Litterally, clear and everything is 1.12. If I want white, black, or flat black then its only 96 cents a can. Sandpaper isn't expensive and yes I said "do it right" which honestly rattle can paint isn't doing it right but for something that you only want to last two years I think that 300 dollars and doing it that way is better than going to macco and spending 500 for a paint job that will last 6 months.

I am still ready for this, definitely will buy, I still would like hybridz to benifit.

lol, pep boys, under 26 bucks total. price said 5.99 per set it was like 25.8 something? I was stoked when I found them.

Yea, your wheels seem similar, do they have the shank style lugs? Pain in the A** to find, at my work I would have to special order them.