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Invincibleextremes

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Everything posted by Invincibleextremes

  1. Minor improvements for v3, namely the ability to jump from 2015 to 2014 brakes and back as needed. Also tabbed a few spots to keep it from moving around too much during welding etc. David still rocking v1 in his 800hp car without issues half a year later.
  2. Heck ya, axles looking good. Btw, 2018 mustang stick v8 cars are using gt350 axles. Gt350 axles are basically the same right axle, but the left has been increased in diameter and cv size. They will not work for this conversion. So you need v8 axles 2015 to 2017 and 2018 must be v8 automatic axles.
  3. Ah, yeah I didn't know BMW diff was weak.
  4. Are BMW hub bearings bolt on? If they are you could have someone cut something like this, hack it together and use your diff, and all BMW bearings and brakes. I use this as part of a completely different (mustang) IRS diff setup but you may have good results with a similar concept.
  5. Pic of another car with 2014 mustang spindles. It moves the wheel forward by 3/4 btw. So a heads up for anyone planning on larger diameter tires.
  6. Shafts themselves are rated to 800tq, 8 ball v8 mustang cv ratings are unknown but whole assembly has been kicking butt on an 800hp car with zero issues since install. As per forum rules prices cannot be discussed in the technical threads, so PM me and I'll gladly let you know everything. To put it in perspective though... complete pair including low mileage v8 cv usually ends up costing less than the discontinued oem Nissan turbo z32 axle PER SHAFT... IF you can get them. We're talking about 34 spline inner stubs, 8 ball cv, heat treated custom shafts and 32 spline outer using a bolt on hub with a SUBSTANTIAL bearing size to boot.
  7. Pic of the summers brothers racing shafts on mustang v8 cv cores. The left and right factory shafts are shown next to the completed assembly.
  8. Obviously I can't stop to take pictures of everything going out the door, but here's a couple more uprights set up for 2015 brakes and hubs tacked up for someone. Oh and shout out to summers brothers racing. They make a kickass set of axles for this conversion. Roughly a dozen pairs so far and the fitment is amazing.
  9. Test fitting kits on my spare 3.31 lsd diff. That crossmember is optional and is for people not wanting to notch their own factory front LCA mounts like we did on David's car.
  10. V 2.0 of the uprights. Same design, even more camber adjustment and shed a little weight while still keeping most of its strength. And let's face it, "most" of it's strength is still head and shoulders over what else is out there.
  11. I'm not a hard guy to find. PM me for my number or just contact me on Instagram, Facebook under my youtube channel name of Invincible Extremes
  12. This one going out in the morning, itll still need to be tied into the notched crossmember, and fully welded up. Jig for the cradle is built so it's going very smoothly so far.
  13. Entire rear subframe can be had for anything from 500 to 1200 plus freight. Just the bare diff itself ranges from $100 to $900 and is available in 3.15, 3.31 all the way up to 4.09 factory. Aftermarket 4.56 gears are also available. The most common ones are 3.15 from a v6 rental and 3.31 off an ecoboost. Ebay is full of them, ALL have lsd but some even come with torsen.
  14. 3.15 has it's own lsd, and 3.31 to 4.56 share the same carrier and can be interchanged. The strength of aluminum ears is only in question because of the design of the factory mustang mounts, my setup doesnt use bushings on the 4 corners but ties everything together with a solid cradle. But for maximum strength, the iron case is definitely the way to go. The auto and manual input yoke are different, but swapping to the f250 slip yoke makes this a non issue. There are several different axles from the factory, ALL of them use 34 spline inner stubs, and 32 spline outer, but have different cv size and intermediate shafts... I provided the part numbers for the v8 shafts, which work work with the racing shafts from summers brothers racing. Those shafts, like in David's car, are designed around the bigger v8 cv and won't work with the smaller v6 cv... something to keep in mind when hunting for cores to build. Noah has an aluminum 3.15 diff off a v6 rental car and is using the same 34 spline v8 shafts as david and me.
  15. Video of our adventures during the race event. We had a lot of fun despite shredding the blower belt and not reaching out target speed. Brief summary of the entire concept of the swap as follows. - Bushings. That's right, the diff is SOLID mounted to the cradle, which is a two part assembly that uses bushings up front and ties into the r200 mustache bar to use the bushings there. They really only absorb sharp impacts and harmful vibrations to prevent cracks from forming. But even so, we didn't hear the diff at all. That worn out t56 is another story... The diff is huge... it's literally a cut down 10.25 inch... 34 spline axles and all. Speaking of axles... options on end. The cheapest being a couple race shafts on cheap v8 cv assemblies... and nicest being 2,000 hp axles from DSS. Admittedly they quoted me at 100 bucks over selling price for custom length 800hp axles, so I still need to get with them about the 2,000 hp axles... I'll post when I know. Gear choices. 3.15 has it's own lsd, but 3.31 to 4.56 can be rebuilt as whatever ratio you want on the same LSD... and all use the same 34 spline axles. Speaking of LSD, they all come with it, but some even come with a torsen, at a higher price of course. Or it can ordered separate. Yokes for 1330 or 1350 u joints are readily available. Thanks to Ford using the same tooling for years on end. Its 31 spline for future reference. Bolt on hubs for dirt cheap, as of this writing timken hubs are 69 dollars and they're 14mm on the studs. Brakes... you will need longer parking brake cables, but the parking brake is built into the caliper on both the 2014 and the 2015 brakes. Using 2014 brakes allows some 15 inch wheels to fit but requires cleaning up a shoulder on the hub bore... or the rotor itself. Obviously 2015 brakes won't require this, but will require 16 inch wheels for the smallest brake... the big 13 inch rear brakes require a 17 inch wheel. You can do what you like of course, but the whole setup is designed to utilize all 8 bolts on an integrated front mount. And the bushings are placed as close in line with the bolts as possible to eliminate torque load on the bolts. Oh yeah, almost forgot... at the hub camber adjustment. No need for camber plates, although some choose to use them.
  16. As in? Diff went in, stayed in and gave us no issues. It's a tight fit but works great. Only issue I can forsee is someone not welding it to the crossmember correctly, or warping the crossmember while notching it.
  17. Swap kit for s30 datsuns to swap the super 8.8 off a 2015 and up mustang into the 240z, 260z, 280z Comes with uprights that bolt up to off the shelf 2004 neon srt4 coilovers and a cradle kit for the super 8.8 diff. Brakes, bolt on hub, donor cv axle parts and diff all off a 2015 mustang. 5x114.3 bolt pattern. 2014 brakes will work for some 15 inch wheels and will bolt up with 5/16 caliper spacers that can be ordered extra or can make your own. Kit is currently in many many cars. If you have questions i would be happy to answer them. Fully welded kit is all I'm currently selling. 1600 plus shipping. Complete assembled axles are 1100 plus shipping. Feel free to ask questions, also can accommodate special requests within reason.
  18. David's 800hp datsun is now equipped with the super 8.8 differential swap. 1/2 mile racing it on Saturday.
  19. Giant 14 inch brembos on David's car. If he used the 15 inch brembos he'd need even bigger wheels. Barely fit as is.
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