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Invincibleextremes

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Everything posted by Invincibleextremes

  1. The face itself doesn't accept the calipers, to use 1995 or 2014 rear brakes it will come with a bracket to work with the caliper you want. So I see no reason why you couldn't use any caliper you wanted, so long as you could make up some sort of bracket to fit.
  2. Yeah, I think the best situation for everyone involved is for me to tack every thing in a jig for it to stay true, and let everyone either weld it themselves, or trade favors with a welder etc...
  3. Uncle Sam has me busy for a couple weeks, after that I'm finishing the install on my own datsun, drafting up the shapes once I'm happy with them, and having it all laser cut and see what else can be done. A month or two tops.
  4. Agreed. I find it ironic that my 1st gen mustangs, and my firebird, and my 69 charger all have double wishbone, and my only car known for handling (although my 68 firebird is no slouch in that dept) has a strut. In fact, I find it downright amusing that most modern cars are strut based.
  5. That's what I'm trying to say. The 240z rack has an inner tie rod pivot width of 610mm and the wrx is 650mm. Therefore using s80 Volvo inners and 240z techno toy outers will bring the OUTER tie rod width to where you need them, but it's the inner tie rod distance being increased that will bring the angles back to very close to stock.
  6. Reason the Ackerman remains the same is that the mustang spindles have the same ball joint to tie rod distance as the 240z... But the tie rod is outboard by a little bit, so using a rack with a wider pivot center Like the wrx then brings this back to stock 240z geometry.
  7. The wheel base is the same, both front and rear, and side to side, so I'm not quite sure as to what you are asking. The reason my wheels stick out so much is that they are wide... You could stay with 17x8 inch wheels and stay withen stock fenders, I just chose not to. I've always wanted a widebody Z, and built it with 11 inch wide wheels. So the scrub radius, and the Ackerman remain the same as a 240z at factory ride height, unless you choose to change it with really wide wheels, but that is no different than a stock 240z on fat wheels.
  8. Front geometry stays stock aside from it being a 2 inch drop, which helps with the bump steer. But requires a wider rack to completely do away with bump steer... Which opens up the possibility of using a wrx rack which is near bolt on anyway. Yeah, is is very possible to use just the cradle and either use techno toy tuning uprights with z32 hubs and brakes, or 240sx hubs and brakes tonstay 4 lug or anything else along those lines. But you would be shooting yourself in the foot at that that point... The use of cv axles for $75 each and getting them cut down at $75 each and then using 2014 mustang brakes at $150 or less and paying $150 for some 2015 bolt on hubs is the cheaper, stronger way to go.... Not to mention srt4 struts are $80 each brand new, and springs are $40 a piece to set them up for whatever weight and balance your car happens to be... Like I said, you could do a lot of things, no reason you couldnt, just have to decide on what you want and how much it will all cost you.
  9. Just doing what I can. I spent today trying to get my hands on a z32 turbo stub axle so I can compare the 2015 mustang splined. Both the 2015 mustang and the z32 turbo are 32 spline 22.8 mm on the bolt on cv splines outside. Just don't know if they work together without getting my hands on one. The 2000 dodge intrepid is the same bore in the backing plate, so you could use that too if you wanted to go bigger with 33 spline cv axle ends that go into 28 spline 930 shafts via the f150 front cv... But you'd be splitting hairs at that point, as getting custom 2,000 hp 2015 mustang axles isn't that expensive for how strong they are...
  10. I have a thread in the braking forum about the front, but I'm using 2014 mustang spindles mounted on 2004 srt4 coilovers... The srt4 coilovers are being used front and back, and the 2014 mustang brakes are being used front and back, and the diff hubs and axles are 2015 mustang. I'm sure guys like you really appreciate the systems being complete off one car, not mismatched like prior offerings using custom struts and other budget blowing things.
  11. Well here's what I'm thinking, if I get all the bits, laser cut, tack them together using a jig I'll built so each piece is the same, and then have them professionally welded (Not by me) I'm looking at around 200 per upright and ballpark 500 for a complete cradle set up to use the factory 2015 mustang bushings. Now, but I can probably do drastically better than that for just a tacked together setup for the guys who trust their own welding... or want to have them welded by a friend of theirs etc. I can tack it all up in the jig and ship it out. Not 100% sure yet as I'm not sure on the amount of work it'll take, and the expenses of producing it all, but that's the idea.
  12. Had my brother make me a donut that had the r200 flange bore inside and the mustang super 8.8 other bore... then I messed up one set of holes, but the second set perfect. So I'll be driving soon on this setup without having to buy another driveshaft just yet.
  13. Threaded rod would blow apart and more than likely kill someone. It's the factory spindle pins. My brother works for a manufacturing place and made them for me on his lunch break on a lathe. So basically it'll replace factory parts and be 100 percent bolt on.
  14. I looked into it for all of 3 seconds. It wasn't a viable option. The uprights are going to cost 400 for the pair, and this in turn allows the use of much cheaper 2004 srt4 coilovers and which in turn also allows cheap disc brakes to bolt on. And that's just in the rear. Up front the coilovers and spindles allow for extremely cheap 5 lug disc brakes, and coilovers and also open up the setup for proper geometry using Subaru wrx non sti steering racks, which were otherwise too wide at the pivot points for stock 240z geometry. This allows two things.... near bolt on power steering, and affordable right hand drive conversions for guys like me who just feel like doing that. So many wins on so many levels it's just mind blowing.
  15. Got the left hand knuckle prototype done. Angles came out exactly how I want them, with tons of room to adjust camber, so I'll be mirroring it on the other side. Then back to working on the 2015 mustang diff mount.
  16. Made lots of progress today. Tomorrow I'm going to finish up the dog leg on the uprights and the spindle pin sleave and reinstall the control arms on the rear so I can see where the camber comes out to under load and make changes from there. 2015 rear hub, and 2014 mustang brakes. Still plenty to do, and I need to finish the diff cradle as well.
  17. made a lot of progress on the the rear uprights. Finishing it up tomorrow and going to install the control arms. 2015 mustang hub, and 2014 mustang rear brakes.
  18. I like the widebody aspect of it. Not really digging the front or back. Don't you have some pics of an earlier one in fiberglass? Or is that a different design.
  19. Whoa, those look real good. What are your wheel specs? I have 17x9.5 and 17x11 both with 4 inch backspace.
  20. Most likely mig, it'll be steel, 1/2 inch on some parts, 1 inch on others, then all drilled using a jig and then welded together using another jig. The bolt on hub will add strength as well. I have no idea on what you'll be using for a bolt on hub, since the explorers use a press in bearing, but I would gladly sell you a pair of knuckles that you can drill for your own hub of choice or just use 2015 mustang hubs like I am. Also, the drive line shop has 930 axles for both the explorer 31 spline and the 2015 mustang 34 spline, so getting axles to use 2015 mustang hubs and the explorer diff is an off the shelf combo that they will gladly sell you.
  21. Already designed it, just need to build a mockup, check all the shapes in real life, and then get the pieces laser cut, welded together etc.
  22. Yeah I was really tempted to do a complete subframe, but the 64 inch track width didn't appeal to me, plus it would only solve the issue of a monster diff in my car, not the masses... And because I have a youtube channel, and there's a MASSIVE hole in the market for affordable differential solutions and coilover and disc brakes I figured bringing some to market was a no brainer. Btw, if you could give me the outer dimensions of the front diff mount bushings I would be greatful. I don't have any on hand but I plan in using them in a different location to isolate the diff. The factory 4 holes are all going to be hard mount, and the bushings will be on the mustache bar and on the very front. I'm detaching the very front bit from the rest of the cradle, and using bushings between the two parts.
  23. Thanks. Yeah my ideas will be public and in place in a few days. That's awesome you're building A arms and such, I toyed with the idea of using the entire setup, but there's just too many moving pieces... so I'm sticking to datsun geometry. It may even come to pass that your A arms and my cradles will be the go to for guys with high hp... or it may not, as it's highly unlikely you're going to use the factory r200 mount points... either way, it's a win win for everyone. The points you bring up about the super 8.8 is exactly what I've been saying about it. They are hands down better than anything else out there for the money. My reasoning for the 2014 brakes and the 1995 brakes are because im using 2014 fronts and the 1995 is a great option for guys wanting 15 inch rear slicks... so it's a win win. And yeah, I'm going for knuckles, because of the neon coilovers, and because there's a lot already available in terms of custom control arms and r200 mustache bars.
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