MYRON

Good news.. The loud cracking coming from the rear of my was the diff hitting the ebrake mechanism.. I had an automotive serpentine belt strapped over the top of it but it must have gotten stretched a little too much... Now it has a chain over the top of the diff and it is bolted to the vibration damper... I rejetted the carb and took the platinum tipped plugs out and it seems to be running much better... Myron

Be careful on block huggers and angle plug heads.. I had to mount my engine 2 inches higher than i wanted to because of clearance problems... Just look at the hood on my car to see the end result! Myron

you may want to get some fiberglass mat and resin from your local auto parts store, then lay some on the back side. Make sure the surface is clean and roughed up before you apply the stuff. You may want to do the same on the front with a much finer grade of fiberglass cloth. If your airdam has a thick layer of gelcoat then you want to grind the crack open(make it a little deeper and wider) then use some fiberglass filler to fill it in.... Myron

I have had the e-brake problem before, but I do have the nose of the diff. anchored down pretty tight,so i do not think that it is causing the problem. My strap (automotive ac belt) may have snapped though, I will have to get under there and check it out this weekend....

What does it sound like before your ujoints blow out on your halfshafts?... My new tranny and torque converter are really putting a strain on the driveline now... when i hit 2nd real hard i hear a series of loud sharp "cracks" and i can feel a slight shudder comming from the rear passenger side of the car... Has anyone else heard this sound????

I'm glad to see that you are getting the bugs worked out. Does your BG750 have equal size bores, and is it a mechanical secondary unit? I am assuming that with your different jet sizes that your carb has a power valve? I had tons of probles with mine running to rich all the time and i changed main jets from 66 to 84 and never gould get it to run right.. turns out I removed the 4 tiny air bleed jets and removed the power valve and changed all 4 main jets to 74 and it felt like i was spraying 150 shot to it! I have since changed my torque converter back to a stock unit and now will have to re-jet it again...

I was just offered 4000.00 cash for the motor in my car. My desktop dyno claims to be between 464 and 513hp. I do not have the flow #'s on my DartII's so I just entered all the specs and then just changed the type of heads and looked at the #'s... I have aprox 5400.00 invested and i am thinking about taking the guy up on it and buying an LS1 with t56 so i can cruise the highway more...

Maybe you should try a crankcase evacuation system. I am probably going to put one on my car. If I turn it to close to 7k the crank case pressure causes the dipstick to pop out which causes a really big mess and smoke screen!

Mike, I think that you should give up on the "return line" system. Maybe your regulator is bad and causing your fuel pump to just squirt fuel in circles.. I have never seen any one with the problems that you are having that is using a single line system.. I hang out with 4 guys that race all the time... In ever case it is holly blue,1/2 line to the regulator, then # 6 lines to the carb. the 57 chevy has a cell and a lingenfelter 489ci.. the 71 camaro has a 604hp 383,fuel cel and the 1/2 line and the #6 to the carb...the 70 cuda has a 468 ci and the same config... all the cars pull the wheels off the ground and I dont remember any of them having fuel delivery problems the are all #8 and 1/2 inch to the regulator then #6 to the carb all have holly blue with the supplied regulator... Myron

Make sure that u use a valve body from a trans am or camaro or vette.. otherwise there is no way that it can be made to shift the way that you want

thanks for the info. I was thinking that for a few minutes there i was hammering and r180 and was about to kick myself!!

I have the hp4150 pro carb that has had some extra tweeking done and am very happy with it. I better be for 625.00 bones!!! It started life as a 750dp but it now has a 750 body with an 850 base plate and has been coated with some fancy slick stuff. it does not have a choke and it is a little rough until the temp comes up a little but the ease of changing jets and power valves is easy... I would suggest getting one.. Myron

POR15, it is very expensive but i think it is the best stuff around. You can coat rusty exhaust manifolds and make them look loke jet hot coating... it is 99.00 per galon.

mike, come by my house and i will show you a dash, i have one on my work bench out of my new 78 project car... myron

CAN IT BE DONE?? I have noticed that some diffs out of late 280z's (76-78) do not have the 6 bolts holding in a seal or bearing where you plug in the stub axles? My 77 does NOT have the bolts and i was under the inpression that it had the r200, but the 78 that i just got HAS the bolts in the diff case... what is the deal and or difference???

Mike, I am using the stock tank and vent system. I do have a sump with the #8 AN fitting coming out of the tank... No problems here... I was messing around with it the other night and was revving the engine to 6500 and the pressure never dropped below 6.25 psi

Chaz, I have a b&m 10" stall that if you brake torgue the car it starts to spin at 2700 rpm, but as soon as you let off the brake it flashes to 4000 rpm... It does this in any gear. You can be cruizing along at 40 miles an hour in 3rd gear and punch it and it jumps to 4k then starts pulling real hard... This is great for racing but way too much for cruizing... I am going to put the stock converter back in as soon as my tranny gets out of the shop... If you are racing more that cruizing I will sell it to you for 150.00.. It has the anti balooning plate and brazed fins so you can spray the gas to it without any problem.. myron

John, the numbers that i gould find through the grease were "GB1 9T" "048" "912 73" "B12 73" some of these may be innacurate because a "B" looks like an "8" and with my hand wrighting that "GB1 9T" might be "GM 9T" the heads had huge intake valves and factory guide plates and large almost square ports with the corners kinda rounded out the ports look just like the # "0" the intake is 4 barrell 3 "GMT 333841" the block has "O or Q then E459752" on the front of the block. the back of the block has 3999289 and the words "high-perf pass 7" under the cam gear

I just got a deal on a an olds 455. the casting #s prove it to be the 380hp model w/10.5 compression. It is torn down and needs to be bored and the crank needs to be turned but i got it cheap with the th400 tranny and a th375 tranny with electric kickdown. Locotus plese respond to my email Myron

Glenn, My car is aprox 475 hp and the weak link in my car was the small hollow roll pin that holds the large steel shaft that holds the planetary gears in place... when that roll pin lets go the large shaft will float back and fourth and it gets chewed up in the pinion gear. In my case when the shaft got tangled up in the pinion it blew out the sprag in my tranny... needles to say a cheesy 2.00$ roll pin just cost me 400.00

STAN THE CARPENTER MAN! I will sell you my 280Z chassis or complete.... look at the pictures in members rides.. i have about 12k in it but will take a loss.....

are you sure that your timing is the issue? they may be many reasons for an engine to be hard to start... you can loosen the distributor bolt and slowly rotate the distributor either way to see if that helps.

Have you ever tried it? it is VERY messy!!! i have doen a few molds and worked on stuff like that before but i was never really happy with the end result...

Scott, I am using the stock radiator in my 77. My engine is far from mild though(475hp) and i have not had any cooling problems as of yet, BUT i do not have an A/C in the car either. I am using a 16" electric fan as well. I have around 1000 miles on the car as of right now....

Mike,I told you that stuff was awesome!.. Guys, I have my headers wrapped in that stuff and you can actually touch the wrap after the car has run for a while and you wount get burned. plus after a friday night of cruizing AND racing the only under hood temp increase is from the fan drawing heat from the radiator... I swear by it! even if there is a possibility of premature header failure after a year or so....