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Evan Purple240zt

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Everything posted by Evan Purple240zt

  1. Extending the crossmember is exactly how I did the front subframe in my 240sx to accept stock RB mounts. I used super thick square tubing. Evan
  2. Hmm maybe I am way overthinking this and you may be on to something. Ill take some photos and put some thought into it tonight. Thanks guys. I am going to have to make a shroud of some sort anyway, because i need a way to mount my fans (unless I mount them using strap steel, which may work well too)..
  3. Well part of the battle I am trying to win is keeping this thing cool at low speeds on hot days. Highway speeds are okay. I am just trying to streamline things and keep them as efficient as possible. I can make the shroud from the IC cover the entire radiator frontal area, thats no problem. The core on my IC isn't much smaller. I guess worst case, I can mock one up and try it. If it gets hot, out it comes! Evan
  4. Alright, in my S14 (I know its not a z, but figured this might be of use to someone with one) I have a large FMIC that covers the entire opening in my bumper. I have a radiator that is mounted in the factory location with pusher fans (no room for pullers). I am going to make a shroud to cover the front of the radiator leaving two 12" holes for the fans to increase the effectiveness and not have them mounted flat to the radiator. Is this going to hurt highway cooling? Reading the ducting articles on here, and the ducting info in Maximum Boost I think it will be fine. I do have the radiator totally sealed to the core support. Next question, there is about 5" between my radiator front and intercooler. Should I build ducting to go between the intercooler and the radiator? My concern is that it may actually restrict air movement too much. the intercooler is 3" thick chinese core with a fairly open fin design. I had envisioned this; Intercooler sealed to opening in front bumper. I/C sits about 3" back, so I can block off the edges and make it fit tight so the air will either bounce off or be forced through. Shroud from rear of intercooler to the front of the radiator. Thoughts? I have read the aerodynamic threads etc.. and will likely do a splitter/belly pan on the very front edge between the core support and the front lip as well. Thanks - Evan
  5. Glad to hear nobody was hurt. Frustrating indeed, but the damage is likely not as bad as it seems at first! Good luck getting it back together. Evan
  6. I saw a 35 pound toolbox damn near come into the passenger cabin of a ford Taurus that hit a parked car at 40mph. The toolbox smashed a subwoofer box like yours, and almost ripped its way all the way through the sheetmetal that seperates the trunk from the interior. All you really need to do is mount a couple of eye bolts and a ratchet strap to keep everything in place IMO. Evan
  7. Been quite awhile since I have seen a motor in a z that interested me! Can't wait to see how it goes. Evan
  8. As long as it isn't too breezy, you will have no problem with mig. Its much cleaner than flux-core as well. You may consider putting up something to stop the wind before you start welding. Your welding outside, make sure NOBODY can see you and damage their eyes. This includes children, animals and neighbors obviously. Evan
  9. Holy crap, you actually went to the track? I thought I saw pigs flying but wasn't sure!! Congratulations dude, great time. Evan
  10. Are those patches seam welded in? Or just tacked. If they are tacked, finish welding them in. I learned this from my old car. They tacked in patch panels and filled. The paint cracked around the patch eventually.
  11. WTF is a slipyoke? If you don't mind me asking.
  12. Scottie, I had one of those intercoolers on my 240sx at DNI. No complaints here! I would love to have a higher end unit, but at the rate I trash them I can't justify it!! Evan
  13. Dude, that looks 10x better than a cowl hood. Nice job cutting the hole neatly! Evan
  14. Joel, those look great. The tan looks nice with the red. A+++ Evan
  15. Bryan, I agree with above. Way overkill for the 6.5" speakers. If you can't return the amp I would do the following. Not sure how stable that amp is. I had a four channel in my Z a long time ago I had wired like this; Front and rear right wired paralell to a 2 ohm load Front and rear left wired in paralell to a 2 ohm load Rear channels on the amp bridged mono to the subwoofer. You must make sure your amp will tolerate the 2 ohm load on a pair of channels. Same deal with the sub. I can double check if you have model numbers. Also, you won't have front/rear fader capability. I would definitely do it this way if possible and your dead set on using what you have. Evan
  16. Man you really have something you should be proud of there!
  17. I do love my RB25... 2j would be nice but parts are too damn rich for my blood. Evan
  18. A replacement... no Regardless of what you end up with, you will miss your Z. I don't miss it enough to get another one though. Evan
  19. Looks great, how did you do the sweet fish mouth cuts on the tubing?
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