Savage42

No, they have 3 different compounds and are a carbon-kevlar composite that works very well and is very easy on rotors. Porterfield makes the R4S (street/autocross/track) pad, the R4 (race) pad and the R4E (endurance race) pad. I've used the R4S pads on all my cars for over 15 years and love them! http://www.porterfield-brakes.com

Of course, you have to consider that you need sticky tires to really get a ton of flex and while you still have a ton of rubber in the upper strut mounts (assuming you still have stock mounts), you'll only gain a marginal amount from the bar. If your car is actually moving the strut mount area, then you might have a weak floor, wobbly quarter panels, etc. Of course, you can then take into account the difference between a 240 vs 280 shell, and on and on and on. At the very least, they are good for mounting a harness! The real answer is a fully integrated cage (6 point or more) that ties the front & rear, triangulated all over the place, etc to make the car stiff, but it's better than nothing if you autocross or track it. For a dedicated street car, probably not much of a performance gain.

Me hanging out at Laguna Seca last season. Lapping the 1970 Plymouth AAR Cuda Factory Trans-Am car at Daytona before the start of the Rolex 24.

Major work and expensive. You have to have an ABS controller, pump and wheel speed sensors on all 4 wheels. Possible? Yes, but not cost effective. The other reason is WHY? It works as a safety device of the drivers with lack of experience, but typically is not really a performance upgrade. Threshold braking is the maximinum you can achieve and is far beyond what ABS will do, as it kicks in way before that. Even when running road courses in my 540i BMW with a highly developed & engineered ABS system, I can brake into corners harder than the system will allow and once the ABS kicks in, you can actually feel yourself accelerate, as it takes away braking power. If you get yourself in trouble, it's nice to be able to just stand on the brakes w/o any wheel lockup, but I'd prefer a good non-ABS system. Also, you want to go with some real calipers and rotors with either setup, which is already as much as most want to spend on brakes for their Z car. Just my 42 cents.

Ask and you shall receive! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126208

That is a cool setup, for sure. I read in a performance engineering book a few years ago that you gain (on average) 7HP per 100HP the engine puts out by pulling outside air vs the high temp, under hood air. The other big benefit is to have some sort of nice, large radius airhorns. Lots of different ways to get the desired effect.

I can understand that. Thanks for the feedback. I just kept updating the list of names in the one post, but just have to keep adding an updated list in this type of scenario. No big deal, just didn't want people to get annoyed by it. Thanks!

Then how about a Corvette ZR1 motor?

Oh, but it WWD "Wrong Wheel Drive"!!!

Still not working. Anyone on this issue? SuperDan.....I hear you are the technical Master!

I'd seriously pass on that idea. We have those things come in at the shop and they are junk once a head gasket goes on them. Most of the head bolt holes will need to be helicoiled, parts are spendy, etc. With the time and money you'd put into your car, you are much better going with a more "tried & true" Chevy motor. It'll save you tons of money on the back end. The Aurora motor is the same way. Hope that helps.

For the last couple of days, I noticed that the "edit" feature for posts I wrote has not been on the thread. Is anyone else having the same problem? Help a brother out!

They stretch quite a bit. Should be fine.

Sssshhhhhh! You said the "R" word! You didn't "race" him........you just gave him a few blasts of "enthusiastic driving" in order to display the superior performance & prowess of a Hybrid Z. Based on what he paid for the Vette, it's a moral victory, if nothing else!!

So, you got rid of the cool finned one? (no room for a sticker with all those fins!) I'm assuming it's an LSD, right? I made up a couple of these units, so I could run the finned diff cover. I like the idea of extra capacity and increased cooling. http://album.hybridz.org/data/551/280Z-RearDifferentialBrace.jpg

It's all part of the Hybridz motto "More is better!" Actually, it's about going from 2 (should have had 4, anyway) to 6 discs, which is an upgrade and for the price, you can go through a 20 yr old differential and know everything is good & tight. With a 4 disc unit, which you probably have if you bought an R180 LSD carrier, you probably aren't in quite a rush to buy discs for it. Anyway, it's just nice to have some serviceable parts around, just in case.

Besides the fact that the larger ones are your main fuel line and smaller are return lines, I'd guess there may be some sort of bypass valve inside that allows fuel from the return line to enter the primary feed stream if pressure drops below a certain point. That would be my guess, as I don't see any other way it would work. Use your X-ray vision and look inside!

Thought I'd post this for anyone who is looking for a "done" Z32 300ZX. Definitely a nice car. Pass it on! http://eugene.craigslist.org/car/422092433.html

I would agree. Unless you can build a full flat bottom tray to smooth out all the air going under the car and they diffuser/vortex generators would need to go farther forward under the car to do anything. As was said, it would look cool.

OK, here are a couple hundred pics from the meet. We had a great time! Dustin & I took 1st & 2nd in Street Prepared over 2300cc with a 37.8 & 37.9, respectively. Definitely a lot of cool cars at the meet. Dustin & I both plan on going next year with our LS powered Zs! Not many stock Datsuns there, which should be the case! Only bummer was when one of the nicest Z32s there (550HP twin turbo), spun at the autocros went over the curb and broke some stuff. Enjoy! http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=817

This is with my little Casio 7.2 MP camera during my trip to Miami last November.