ZHoob2004

With rust like that I'd just leave it. I imagine most fuel tanks have rust to that kind of degree. Otherwise, I'm an advocate of having the tank steamed and then leave it uncoated. As long as you don't leave it empty and open you'll be just fine.

Am I hearing a Tesla autopilot swap in the works?

Reading this thread makes me wonder if the dynamic camber is different between the 240 and 280 chassis. If the strut mounts are further apart on the 280, it should experience less camber and therefore the axles should be less compressed, correct? This goes out the window with camber plates, of course. Then again, camber plates might be a contributing factor pushing the companion flanges slightly inboard when running more camber. Also related, are series 1 axles also the same? If so, that might also explain the axle length due to the diff mount change.

First wave of parts ordered. 10" springs in 250 and 275 lbs 5" sleeves with collars A1-12470 non-slotted tops with 12mm holes. If the tops sit too high I'll drill them out to 7/8 to fit over the damper shaft giving me all the height I need. Hopefully I can still use the stock steering bearings and I'll see after driving a bit if the coils still need Torrington bearings.

To confirm I'm on the right track, the coilover top should be sized according to the shaft diameter of the shock I'm using, right? I imagine the top sitting around the shaft and the steering bearing above that followed by the strut isolator, with any necessary spacers in between.

Alright, sounds good. I'm going to get started ordering parts soon. 5" sleeves, I'll email a1 racing about the bore on the top hats to see if I need anything else with them or something different entirely. I was looking at the summit racing brand springs at ~$40/ea, are those decent or will I regret not going for something like eibach?

I'd like to go all the way to sectioning, but I'm trying to be budget conscious about this whole endeavor and I have brand new strut inserts that should do just fine for my needs. I've taken all four struts off enough times that it's really not a big deal anymore. That sounds like a solid plan, but I need to replace the springs in the rear anyway because I can't get a pair to match properly. Plus my tires are a little wide so the narrower springs will help me with clearance. If it comes to it, I'll just have to raise the rear up if I can't get the front low enough without sectioning.

I want to lower the car, I like the adjustability, I like being able to select spring rates, I don't want to run progressive springs like all the lowering springs use, and I only want to buy these parts once if I can help it. Right now I have stock springs with 240z rear isolators but the front is way too high and some previous owner must have done some strange spring swapping because the rear doesn't sit level and doesn't feel very nice to drive. (Yes, the springs are in the right places, this is the most level configuration I found)

I've decided I want coilovers, but I'm not ready to section my struts. It's a pretty dumb reason, but I've got brand new inserts all around so I've come up with a compromise and want to see how it works out. I've read this thread, that acknowledges this as possible but doesn't really go into specifics. Essentially, the plan is to follow the instructions provided here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98897-step-by-step-coilover-conversion/ , skipping the sectioning/gland nut part. I plan to place the sleeve perch at the same height as for sectioned struts (allowing me to section in the future without moving it), use the same 5" sleeves and use the tube that I make the perches from to make spacers to lift the sleeves up to my desired ride height. Strut tops I believe should be this part, but I'm not 100% sure http://www.a1racing.com/A1_Racing_Products_12470_2_1/2_Spring_NonSlotted_Coil_Over_Top.aspx May need bushings to center the struts in the tops depending on the dimensions. For now I want to use the stock strut insulators and I'll piece together the front bearings like were done in the thread. in brief: 5" threaded sleeves 10" springs (275/250 seems safe) spacers to lift sleeves up closer to stock ride height stock strut mounts the linked strut tops? Anything wrong with this plan?

S30 mounts are all the same. Use your stock motor and transmission mounts and they'll bolt up. I think if you have the t5 trans that mount is different.

Metal temp for the chts

For the record, if it's an auto trans car it still has the r180.

Only reason I mention the accessory plug circuit is I can imagine being stuck on the side of the road and needing a fuse. Lighter is usually a great place to borrow a fuse from but in this case the car wouldn't be able to start then.

So I think the idea with the oil pressure switch is that the normally closed terminal connects to the starter signal to provide fuel pump power when cranking and then switch over to battery power when oil pressure rises while running. This way, if the pressure falls the fuel pump loses power since you're no longer cranking. Idea seems pretty good, but I feel like there may be a period between cranking and running where the starter is no longer energized but there also isn't enough oil pressure to trigger the switch. This may still work if it starts fast enough and fuel pressure doesn't fall too quickly. Also as a preference thing I would take the power for the ignition switch from a more vital circuit than the cig lighter. My idea with this is to need as few circuits as possible to run the car.

Sounds like you have a short. Depending on the sensitivity of your meter (you need a meter) you might be able to check the resistance to ground at the different light sockets to find generally where the short is. Based on you mentioning previous hackjobs, I would start by making sure they're returned competently to stock.

Forgive me if you mentioned this somewhere, but what are you using for rear suspension? Is it from the same donor vehicle?

For half shafts you want 393 u joints. AutoZone lists mostly 393 and one 391. 391 is what you use for the propeller shaft. Look closer on the Atlantic z page and you'll see both joints are listed.

N42/n47 was still used in a number of 280zx as well, so that's not exactly a surefire way of knowing.

Fuel charge is calculated based on the amount of air going into the cylinder. If the air is not all drawn through the metering device, then the mixture will be calculated based on incorrect information and will be lean due to the additional air. The air entering the block through the valve cover matters because that air is eventually drawn into the intake through the pcv valve on the bottom of the intake.

I have no idea about regulations, but I would think you want the entirety of the vent line, including loops, above the top of the cell so it can drain back down. Right now the lines are just gradually filling with fuel and acting like a pump rather than a vent.

I took my tank to a radiator shop and had them clean and paint it for $100. They recommended against sealing the inside because of fuel and vent lines in the tank and if you keep gas in it it protects itself against rust. This was on a 280z.

Yeah I'm going to investigate further tomorrow (need to pull the driveshaft for an output shaft seal). Everything else should be be good since I just replaced all bushings. It's either the mount or a part of the driveline. Any comments on vibration with your setup?

Since we're talking about the RT mount here anyway, what is the recommended mount configuration for a nearly stock l28? I'm experiencing some clunking and if I find it's the mount, would it be a mistake to simply add a RT snubber on top of it? Essentially, keeping the stretched factory isolator and adding poly above.

I believe this is the thread you're looking for http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/93859-1971-240z-rb25det-build-thread/

Do you need drivers for the usb serial adapter? Check your device manager (win 8+ right click start button -> device manager. Previous versions just use the start menu search). It looks like the firmware script couldn't find a com port and I'm guessing it's not got a driver for it. Disclosure: I don't have a megasquirt but I've used a lot of usb serial adapters.