rags

Nigel, I have the unit from EZ PS. The unit works great and I'm very happy with it. I purchased mine before they offered the speed sensitivity control. I've since tried to purchase it from Roger but unfortunately he has become difficult to get in touch with. One other thing to watch out for is the angle that the sheering shaft to firewall flange that they used. When I first got the kit, the flange angle was way too shallow and the steering shaft would no way bolt up to the dash. They sent me a new flange that was better but not perfect. I wound up modifying the flange myself to get it to fit. Other than wishing I had speed sensitivity, I'm very happy with the unit. Joe

You're in NY? City? Where abouts? Might be able to hook up for a beer one night this week. Joe

No issues.

Hi Pete, What a great find! That car looks amazingly clean! I have a Rebello 3 litre in there at the moment. I am borrowing it from Clive who swapped my old 327 and T10 for it when he removed that engine from the car I sold him. The original engine was ruined by critters making their way up the exhaust and nesting in the cylinders that had open exhaust valves. Also, I had the automatic trans rebuilt and will be using that as well. Eventually the car will have a V8 of some sort. Not sure which one but I do know it will be a V8. Yesterday I felt guilty because of the lack of progress I had been making so I went out to the garage and put the dash back in it. Hopefully this weekend I get motivated and get the fuel system sorted out. Which reminds me, I need a mechanical fuel pump

Interested

Well it's been quite some time since I posted an update so here goes. Since it's been so long there must be a story, right? Well there is. Here goes. After getting the car back form the bodyshop, I started doing the assembly and all was going according to plan until I got to the passenger side door. I hung the door and everything seemed fine until I looked at the one inch gap between the bottom of the door and the rocker panel. Seems the bodyshop didn't reinstall the rocker in the correct location. If you want something done correctly you have to do it yourself, so I ripped the rocker off and did the reinstall in the garage. Took many pictures and had the shop come pick up the car to redo the paint work. I now have the car back in my possession and I'm back at the reassembly. Most of the major bits are back in the car. Doors assembled and installed, along with all of the other bolt on body pieces. Engine and trans are back in. Suspension and steering is back in. All of the wiring has been put back as well. Today was the gas tank and rear hatch glass. Tomorrow will be the windshield and maybe the dash. Not really too much left. Off the top of my head I can only think of is sill plates, trans lines, steering column and exhaust besides the dash and windshield. Maybe try to start it this weekend? I'll try to update as I go. Joe

Dibs on the wheels and tires! Oh wait, you aren't parting it out, are you?

Nope, they are definitely different. LS1 and LS3 use different number of pickup points on the reluctor ring besides the DBW as a minimum for differences. Stick with an LS3 ECU and harness for the motor to avoid headaches.

That usually happens when an air gun is used to tighten lug nuts and the stud is stretched beyond acceptable levels. Joe

5 but who's counting

the wire that goes to the "N" on the alternator connection must be fed 12v switched power. That will keep the electric fp working. Joe

The only independent movement would come from exhaust pulse vibration which is much more prevalent at the header than the bellhousing.

Does anyone have a picture from the front with the crossmember installed? I'm trying to judge how far below the crossmember the pan and headers hang as compared to the Johns Cars offerings. Joe

Look at my signature. None of those are stock either!

Stock? What is that? The motor you see in the picture is a 3 litre Rebello that is occupying the engine bay until I can find a deal on a LS2 or LS3. I am also toying with the idea of dropping in a Coyote motor but I think it's just a tad too wide. As you can see it will be anything but stock Joe

The rotation of the inner main tube does happen which plays havoc with the suspension settings. The lower you put the pivot point on the bar (to raise rollcenter) the more problematic it becomes. What also adds to the problem is how the short nose uses the tubes for a front mount. The torque applied to the tubes from the diff movement will rotate the tubes. We pinned the tube with set screws and put flat 1/8" stock between the diff mount flanges to keep then from lifting. No more problems. Joe

I guess I'm not so good at keeping this thread updated. It's been a busy three months! I'll let the pictures do the talking The first picture should be the last but you get the idea.

No issues at all. Both side fit perfectly. This is on a 78 280z with John's cars mounts.

CB, While the car is at New ERA, why not just have them fab up 2 heat shields and some brake ducting?

Actually the field excitation is done through the ECU wiring harness. The direction of current on that wire is into the alternator. I agree with needing to fuse the pink wire as well as the alternator output. Any insight on troubleshooting the OP's problem? Do you agree that the second yellow wire going to the fuse panel is backfeeding the yellow wire going to the ECU's pink wire?

How do you have the alt tied into the car? Do you have the BAT terminal going directly to the battery of do you have it tied into the wiring harness after the starter? Something is backfeeding the fuse panel after the alt is supplying current. To test my theory, pull all of the fuses at once on the fuse panel and see if the toggle switch then works.

Front bumper is available from Black Dragon for about $150 new!

Can you post a picture of the motor in the car? I was under the impression that whether iron or aluminum, the mounting points were identical on Gen III and IV motors.

Here is a picture of originals to give you a visual. http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2010/09/02/01/17/1974_datsun_260z-pic-51495428341993281.jpeg

Neither car has the carbs that came on the car when it was delivered. The original carbs can be identified by having a bell design but the top of the bell is flat as opposed to round like the carbs on your first 260Z. Also, the bowl is incorporated into the body of the carb on the originals as being off to the side of the round tops. Although there are many more differences, those 2 are the most obvious. Joe