rags

Scott, What guage is the sheetmetal? Is it aluminum? And lastly, where did you buy it? Joe

I don't claim to know anything about aerodynamics but I see a lot of pieces here that fit together but no one is seeing what I'm seeing. Taking bits anf pieces from what everyone here has said, I come up with the following. If you want to vent the hood with hood vents, the vents have to be way forward of the trailing edge of the hood to stay out of the high pressure area created by the angle of the windshield in relation to the hood. Opening the hood and leaving it on the safty latch doesn't do much to vent the underhood air but it does do something to releave underhood temps. How does this happen if there is a high air pressure system at the base of the windshield? The answer is in the side openings of the hood. I can to this conclusion because a cowl induction hood causes temperature issues. The additional air that comes in caused by the high air pressure system at the base of the windshield hits the air that is coming through the radiator in effect slowing it down, and all of this air competes to exit under the car. With the hood popped, the radiator air has a way to escape out the sides of the hood and around the car. What I would like to try, and will do so on my car, is to try to vent the underhood air to the sides of the car with someting like TitaniumZ has done at the TC cups. Also, once the front of the car is has been sealed and air can only enter the radiator or go over the hood, I'd like to try to help the air go around the windshield. Areas of concern would be the A posts at the drip rails and the windshield gasket. I'm interested in what everyone thinks. Am I off my rocker? Not getting this at all? Joe

I second the idea of getting the compressor out of the garage. Do you have another shed that gets used for lawn tools? That's where I put my compressor. It wasn't easy and did require A LOT of piping and electric to get from the shed to the garage but it's worth it. No floor space used and no compressor noise. This guy is in my neighborhood. http://ultimategarage.com Not cheap but if you have the cash and want it done right I'd give him a call. Joe

I've used Gordon at WitchHunter Performance / InjectorServices out in Bothell, Washington 3 or 4 times and would recommend him to anyone. http://witchhunter.com/ He usually does the injectors and ships them back out on the day he receives them. He also sends you a sheet that shows what the injectors flowed when he received them and after he has worked on them. I have sent him injectors that flowed 0 cc's and he worked them to 99% of the top flowing injector of the set. Fast and professional. Can't beat that. Joe

Lets see what you have Dave! Joe

Dave, How is that for fit? Does it fit under the stock battery hold down?

How light weight? I'd bet shipping it would still be murder. I could use a spiral cell for my car as, like DavyZ says, all lead acid batteries leak! Joe

It does look rather good. Right now I'm freshening up a 1980 that has been in the garage untouched since 1988. It has 28k on the clock and the engine compartment looks pretty much like the one in the pictures. It has that yellow spray on stuff that covered the cars before they went on the ship to be brought over here which makes the valve cover and all bright work look crappy. Also, on the 80, the interior panels did change color even though the car was not in the sun! And the headliner loosened up. I'm not sure what the cars are worth but it does look pretty good. Joe

Roddy, I have a question about your car. Have you tested what effect a larger splitter at the bottom of the airdam would have on downforce? Something that would extend beyond the leading edge of the hood. My thinking is if you stood the car on end with the front of the car pointing upward. If the rad support was a sealed and you filled the front of the car with a liquid, the liquid would spill out over the shorter side, which normally is not the hood, and go under the car. To have the spill go over the hood the splitter would have to stick out past the hood. I'm thinking it has to be much more complex than this because it just seems too simple. Joe

Hey Clive, From the first picture it looks like your going to have to work on the tranny alignment. It looks to be pitched slightly to the left. Yes, it was a joke. Joe

It has been removed.

Scott, Looks great! Do you have a picture with the top piece removed? I'm curious to see how you boxed in the intercooler to radiator since I'm assuming your intercooler sits directly in front of the radiator. I have taken a slightly different approach where I have gone from the top of the same air damn as you to the top of the lower cross piece of the radiator support. This was not to bad for me to do since my car is a 240 and that lower cross piece does not have as big a dip in it. I'm already at work so no pictures yet. Also, does the top piece interlock with the leading edge of the hood when the hood is closed? Any fitment issues there? Joe

Say it ain't so! The Eclipse is gone?

I'm starting to see a trend in this forum and it's very unHybridz like. Where's the love?

Tony, Where do you think the air is coming from? The only place it could come from is under the car but why is it doing a 90 degree turn to pressurize to bottom of the hood instead of just flowing under the car? Do you have a picture of the belly pan? Joe

Mike/Jon, Aren't you guys saying the same thing? As quoted above, if you block off the entire grill area and duct that opening to the radiator, aren't you in fact sealing off the rad support to hood? How would air otherwise get to the area on the outside of the duct that is feeding the radiator if the airdam is also sealed to the bottom of the rad support? I know the airdam to rad support has not been discussed in this thread but I know it was mentioned previously. Joe

I'm good guy's. Thanks for all the help! Joe

Mike, great idea! I'm sure we'd all like to see how aero mods help you lower the already incredible times you lay down. Joe

No problem Warren. Since I scored a Gleason I gave up looking for the hens tooth Joe

Yeah Warren, I have the same problem. VLSD with no long axle. I actually made mine from a Q45 diff. I took the VLSD out of the short nose R200 and put it into a long nose R200 2 years ago. Still no axles. And yes, that does look like a viscous diff to me. Joe

The white one is a 72 that is bone stock with the exception of the wheels. The yellow one is a series 1 71 240Z 3 liter TEC II'd turbo. The red one is an early 260 with a 327 and Super T-10 done in 1988. Joe

I think this is going to be the fastest RB swap on record. Nice going so far! Joe

Yeah, just a little Tim!

Uh Rick..........I was going to be looking for you before I check in Joe

TEC II for me. So who is the tuning guru? I'm going to drive my car from NJ to Daytona this year for the convention in Oct so I have a few months to get the tune perfect. I'll even bring the car via trailer to get tuned if I can find someone within a few hours of me! Joe