tannji

OK then.... I can see and appreciate most of the points made here, but they have been made already, lets move on, shall we?

Ask Ross at MM... he had them on his Z last I knew.

From what I have gathered, wasted spark is pretty much that, a coil that sends dual spark pulses, one to the cylinder that is on the intake cycle, and one to a cylinder on the exhaust cycle. It seems to be a cost control measure, less coils and a simpler ignition sytem are the results.

Moby, would you have any idea if MS is capable of managing the Toyota 3RZ with its DIS system? It comes in versions with Distributor, Dual-coil, and Quad-coil, and I dont think it is COP. Mainly, I havent been able to find out if the Toyota DIS as opposed to EDIS, is going to be a problem..... and no one on the main site has done a 3RZ yet, though one guy is attempting a 1UZ.

LOL, I can second the recommendation to use cutting lube.... I had the dead-pedal removed from my Z at a shop. The guy went through 3 bits getting the spotwelds out. Granted, I doubt any of his bits were in good shape to begin with, but the lube will ease the cut, and extend the life of the bit.

LMAO...."That cursed Datsun....." = ) good read. PS... "That car only LOOKS old... !" lol

FI also= Forced Induction.

OK, next question: The 3RZ gen 1 came with Distributor GenII was Twin coil DIS GenIII was Quad coil DIS GenIV was Quad coil DIS + VVT cam technology (163 HP - 183 TQ version) I think I will stay away from the VVT for now, I dont need the headache, maybe go back for a second look when everything else is sorted. I am not intimately familiar with DIS or EDIS, but I AM considering using Megasquirt. Any thoughts on which version I should be looking at and why?

An S30 with T-tops is going to need some serious attention before it will take the torque of a v8 safely..... that one looks to have a an extension from the rear hoop to the top of the windscreen, but I dont think that is sufficient. Interesting, but something to keep in consideration.

from what I found, it could be from either 305 or 350, early 90's, possibly Camero.

LOL... ya, but you are in the "big city" or NM's version, anyway... I will be out in the boonies, near the CO state line and Durango. I saw one for sale in Aztec that I almost bought just because.... looked to be a 240 with a L28 and tranny... fairly rough swap, but great otherwise. it was "powder-coated", where sun and oxidation have reduced the paint to powder that comes off under your fingernail, but other than door corners, saw no rust. I miss that climate, lol. I remember seeing quite a few Z's in Alb. when I was in high school, but I had no idea what they were, and thought the Z31 looked real cool. 6 years later I was in NY, and looking high and low for good bodies, lol.

Ya, I dont think the smog will be an issue in Iowa, and I am probably moving to New Mexico soon, where I also dont think it will be an issue. I am thinking about doing the swap with a mild turbo conversion first... getting the feel for it, and then tearing it apart and shooting for a "final" config... having the crank treated, shot-peened, ect, using turbo pistons from LC, lightening them if possible, and going with a slightly shorter or lighter rod. The intake has to go, might make that the first priority, actually. I might talk to A.R.E. in OZ about that, he seems to have a handle on the intake and plenum, see if there is something I could fab myself. Same with exhaust, I would like to learn to make my own headers, start off with PVC, then mild steel, then stainless as I prove a design. On a completely unrelated note, I might actually sell off my 240, as it already has a complete and decently done SBC TPI conversion, but it has a large sunroof I would rather do without. If I find a roller in NM with typical lack of rust, I may very well do that, and start from scratch on a slightly better chassis so that I can jump right into merely refreshing it and improving suspension, rather than the complete strip and rotisserie job I was planning on this one.

thanks for the input! Ya, I kinda figured that the square bore was incidental, but the cross-flow struck me as very good to start with, as it was a bit of a problem on the L series, IMO. I read a post that appreared to be well grounded, and the guy was of the opinion that the heads on the 3RZ are merely adequate, in his words, "what you would expect on a cheap, small, mass-produced truck engine". had something to do with the chamber design, scissor gears, the balance shafts, ect... he was unimpressed, but it would seem that people are working around this readily enough. The more I learn about the motor, the more I want to play with it. Aftermarket is typically expensive, but I am running into things that are swappable from other series engines, such as connecting rods from the 1UZ, which are shorter and stronger, and apparently some people swap heads with the 2.4L 2RZ. I like the idea of improving the oiling system, but I think I will try to fab much of the stuff myself, as dry sumps, swing-arm oil pick-ups, and even the Accusump are not cheap. I talked to LCEngineering for a bit, (must say, I was was impressed with the attitude and knowledge there) and I want to over-engineer the engine a bit to make it durable and reliable, and shoot for 350 to 400 HP, with the ability to make significantly more, should I ever "need" it, lol. LC was of the opinion that I could run mostly stock lower (refreshed and massaged a bit) chromolly connecting rods, and turbo pistons, a little work on the heads, and the T3/4 hybrid @20lbs roughly, and have a 400hp daily driver that wouldnt stop. This would also give reasonably quick spool, and very nice torque across the rpm range. OR...... I could just slap a STS system in there and run 8's..... JK, lol = )

or BeaZt.... = )

Couple more questions about this motor. One, this motor is a "square bore", 95mm stroke and bore. What does that mean for performance, or why is it desireable? I get the keep hearing from various posts that this is a good thing, but havent found out why yet. I have read about "oversquare" and "undersquare" engines as well, and understand how they differ, but am not sure what the implicit value of a square engine would be. I came away with the impression that generally the oversquare was the more desireable design, but every so often people refer to square favorably... any idea why? Next, the 3RZ has intake and exhaust on opposite sides of the engine, which right off the bat seems like a good thing from a modding and fabbing viewpoint, anyone have any input here? I would imagine that this makes plumbing (especially for the IC) easier, and would imagine that it is good to have the hot side separated from the intake, as well. Last, I found out that the deep sump on this engine was not always front, that center sump should be available as well. Assuming I could modify the pickup, is it feasible to shorten the sump and go with a cooler and/or remote filter to add oil capacity? Is the deep sump to achieve capacity, or to de-aereate the oil? I should have bookmarked some links last night, but I was fallling asleep and spaced it... apparently the lower end of this engine is VERY stout, and also has some relatively unusual tech in it, for a truck motor. In particular, the crank is the benificiary of Toyota's race tech, enough so that it s apparently $1600 to replace, instead of the $300 to $600 of many other cranks. The comments I remember specifically was that to the naked eye, the crank had a lot of balancing prep done to it that was out of the ordinary for a stock production piece. I just KNOW someone will eventually either have some input, or be interested enough to comment..... lol tannji

sorry, about that.... I understood what you meant, but was referring to why you dont see it too often, not that it wasnt the norm to do it, or to design for it.

not sure how I missed that thread, but your work looked very nice, will be referring to it in the future, I am afraid.... my car looks good, but I am all too aware of what is probably waiting for me when I go to restore the chassis.

OK, going by section description, this post doesnt really belong anywhere, so here it is = ). I have been considering the SR20DET swap for a while now, and was strongly leaning in that direction for a while. About a year or so ago someone mentioned the potential of the Toyota 2.7L 4-cylinder 3RZ-FE, and while it looked interesting, I couldnt find a lot of info on it, and the lack of aftermarket parts and support made the SR20 look like the way to go. I have stumbled across more info, and found LC Engineering (seems to specialize in 20R and 22R engines, but has growing support for more modern Toyota engines as well). I am now leaning back towards the 3RZ, but am concerned about a couple of things, and havent found any answers yet. First off, the 3RZ is typically a truck engine, and has a DEEP front sump. I havent seen it yet, but I hear it is something like 12 inches. I would assume that with a number of V8's managing to get the sump behind the crossmember, I should be able to with the 3RZ... but I havent had a chance to measure either the engine or my clearance between cross-member and firewall.... any thoughts? Second, assuming it does clear... am I any better off? what has been a working limit here as far as oilpans lower than the cross member? High-centering gives me goosebumps (in a bad way) as it is... I dont want to tempt fate like that. Third, assuming I strike out with options one and two, what should I know about dry sumps? Is that a workable option in this scenario? What are the downsides to dry sumps in cars that see regular driving? From what I have seen, they are pretty obscenely expensive... but I have heard of DIY sumps as well..... obviously have some more reading to do here as well. Last, if anyone could recommend some appropriate links, I would appreciate it... I am having trouble finding people and sites with specific info.... Its all "4AEG for the win, yo" or debates over whether a CAI or a light weight flywheel are good for a bogger. Man, do we have it good here or what? lol Back to Google... tannji Edit: Here is something that looks to be a good alternative to a real dry sump, and considering exchange rates and the cost of a real dry sump setup, I think this is the way I would prefer to go: http://www.are.com.au/Billet%20Sumps/Nissan%20SR20%20sump.htm Just dont know if it would use a shorter pump....

Mostly just echoing people here, but I use a combo of Antvir, Adaware, Spybot, and Hijackthis. Since switching to this setup, I have had no probs, and this is a multi-user machine at times, so I do have something to compare to... = ) Something that might help people when Spybot, Hijackthis, or Ad-aware asks to block something you havent heard of.... Google the name of the process or file. If it is a process, google's first return is a VERY good info site on the processes. Spybot also is a little intrusive at times, constantly asking for blocks or exceptions.... most of the time it is common sense, as you will have just installed something or dowloaded something and the name is logical, but occasionally I run into something that I didnt recognize and needed action one way or the other. Also, as others have said, turn off System Restore.... the bugs like it more than you should. When trying to get rid of something nasty I tend to also re-boot into safe mode first. Once you Identify an infection, look it up on the support forums for the above mentioned programs.... they will typically have a detailed suggested procedure for removal of the really bad ones... look it up before wasting a couple of days trying to to it your way, dont ask me why I suggest that... = )

Also, their press releases were last updated in April of 2003... I would wonder if it was even possible to have one made light enough for sport use, not to mention either adapting it to a hydralic system, or converting to full-on air brakes.

man, I really get tired of not being able to play videos from that site.... cant seem to find a fix. anyone else have this problem?

I used an aluminum flywheel on my L28 back in the 80's.... cost me a pretty penny back then, but if you ignored gas mileage, it was a lot of fun and made a great combo with the Centerforce clutch, peppy engine, and 411 gears I had. I pulled the tranny after something like 30,000 miles and everything was in pretty good shape, considering. I really beat on that car, but you couldnt tell by looking. The only thing that I remember being an issue was I had to relearn my shifts with that combo, between the stiff clutch, and the revs falling almost as fast as a motorcycle does, it just about made you into a speed shifter.

Now that the definition has be refined a little I would go either SR20DE or 3RZ-FE. I would lean towards the 3RZ just for the fact that it is pretty bullet-proof, but certainly there is a larger knowledge base and A/M parts availability for the SR. I will be doing one of these two in my 240Z.... leaning towards SR, but would switch to the 3RZ in a heartbeat if I could hook up with someone that knew the engine much, as well as being able to source performance parts for it.