DonH

A gentleman on Instagram / Holley Forum - "Projectgattago" is his screen name and IG handle. Was either going to use a fusion fan OR a C7 fan - the C7 fan has a "spal" logo on the back - needs to be the AC delco part. Yes its brushless - the key here is its from a 2014 to 2017 C7 Z06 OR Grand Sport. They came wiht this upgraded fan and wholly shit does it move air!

Absolutely sir - Sadly hindsight being 20/20 I didnt pay attention to the outlet sizes on the dang radiator 😕 Ill need reducers now... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Aluminum-Performance-Racing-Radiator-24-2-Row-Double-Pass-Universal/254469862834?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 You may be able to get the 26" size RAD to fit as on each side there is roughly 1/2" of space but could be really tight to the frame rails. it seems the core will do just fine considering the beastly fan! Ive found a radiator is ONLY as good as its fan... Im also going to have aAC condenser in front of the RAD so the extra pull will be nice. The bonus is the petcock... One less thing I need to worry about adding to the universal style units out there.

Well - she fits niiiiice

Also - the C7 fan is a BEAST of a unit. I selected it because I wanted to have PWM capabilities for my setup. Terminator X ECU will be controlling the modulation. Will also be able to kick on higher for my AC system . also - ITS A BRUSHLESS SPAL fan for $200 - you cannot beat it

Here’s what I ended up getting : EBay dual pass cross flow with large 1” tubes (most are much smaller!) was advertised as a 24” wide setup. and a C7 fan from rock auto - took a little trimming to make the C7 fan fit my radiator core but only about 15 minutes worth! total in hard parts - $350!!!

@milesz my T56 didn’t come with a reverse lockout. I bought this and love it! Same idea as above where you mood the intervals but this is much lower profile! https://www.ebay.com/itm/T-56-TR-6060-Reverse-Solenoid-Delete-Forward-and-Downward-Facing/173158632311?hash=item28510f0b77:g:c-IAAOSww9xZD94j

Did you decide yet sir? Im looking for a proper cooling system for my LS Z as well. Modest built 5.3L alum engine so nothing crazy. Been reading on the c7 fan / radiator combo and it will fit the 240Z chassis

With the CX racing Kit i was able to get the engine to sit completely behind the crossmember! Could be a challenge with the intake setup here. it also put the shifter way farther back which is great for me considering i'm 6'3" and set my seat all the way back. All in your fabrication skills look great man! Love the exhaust too. Ill be doing my own exhaust as well to get it to tuck nicely. Using the oval shaped exhaust for better ground clearance.

Pretty good shape? I would say that AMAZING shape for just sitting in the woods man!

love it! ill be going the same route as Im going with the Terminator X ECU

this build is unreal

Im going with a Holley Terminator X ... Any way you look at it you will save $$ long run by going with it - For $1000 you not only get the ECU AND Harness you get the added bonus of real time tuning... no more sending an ecu out and back etc. Also can get rid of a MAF tune and go with speed density cleaning up the engine bay. Really, with it you can fire an engine up with 5 connections! Unreal... I almost pulled the trigger on a BP automotive harness and do the stock ECU... Stock ECU plus tuning and a new harness if going with engine upgrades = $1400 and upward for dyno tuning

yikes those hang LOW!

dude... I need more info on the 8.8 rear end!!!!

Do you have a 240, 60 or 80? the 240 is much easier VS the tied in Interlock system on the 260Z...

I did the same! yet to fire up and drive on my end. I also was able to retain the stock sending unit by simply bending the arm so the foot would not hit the pump assembly in any way. I out the corvette regulator as close as possible to the tank so I made a bracket mounted with rubber on the back to isolate any vibrations.

Found this thread - I’m calling BS on anyone that got a drivers side to fit with the cages flipped lol.... I’m doing these cutting measures later today on mine! Thanks for documenting - I’ll add to your thread even though it’s 6 years old.

Fantastic Job so far! Ill be tackling my wire harness soon!

Hey Richard, I know you are 100% opposed to coilovers but I must say, When I switched from Tokico to CX Racing Coilovers I didnt find to much difference in how "Harsh" the ride was and found the opposite actually... Just a note for you to contemplate.

hit up Andy @ Syndicate Motorsports here in Upland, CA https://www.syndicatecustoms.co He made a kick ass BOLT IN kit for my buddies 260Z

This statement is too true - That and remember, you are swapping in a engine and transmission designed for a COMPLETELY different make and model. No matte rhow perfect the kit you will need to be able to tweak it to fit.

You could make your own mounting ears in the rear section - I would. The stock trans mounts were designed to hold a 70# trans in place not a 140# trans lol

I have heard of issues on the 280Z chasis with the CX kit - I had the same issue with my engine mount as well so I took it to a machine shop with a large break press and bent the ears to sit flush with the engine crossmember. You can do this at home witha vice and a propane torch if need be. I also used the side holes and drilled another mounting point for security on the ears. For the transmission - Why not return the transmission mount and fab up a full cross mount like the hoke / JTR style mount? https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/s30-ls2-engine-mounting-kit Where are you in cali? I could point you in the direction of local machine shop to bend your tans crossmember? Do you have an IG? PM me it ill conenct you with a guy that made his own as well with minimal welding and worked / is holding amazing!

I searched for over 2 years for a non rsuted part out.... no luck. Im now fabricating my own from sheet metal. Good luck!

count the splines - 240 will have 25 - 280 will have 27