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JMortensen last won the day on March 26

JMortensen had the most liked content!

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About JMortensen

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  1. I think you're missing out here, regardless of whether you do it diagonally or setting fronts even. Mine was really far out. I'd be shocked if fixing this didn't help.
  2. There are SO MANY other things that could affect it, that I think your results (and mine) aren't really meaningful for other people. The thing about the Miatas is that they have a tendency to lock up the LF tire under braking. Not sure that I've heard anyone say that about their Z. FWIW I learned a new trick the other day: when corner weighting, set the front weights equal, rather than setting the diagonals even. This is supposed to load the front tires more evenly under braking. Between setting the fronts equal and making the lines equal length, you MIGHT be able to tell the difference. Probably not... To me these are things that you do when you're building because it's theoretically better. The actual difference it makes is probably pretty minute.
  3. I didn't think the position of the T made a difference either, but since I was plumbing it anyway I went ahead and did it as evenly as I could.
  4. I read something on Miata forums about the length of the hard lines being different, and this contributing to their tendency to lock up the LF tire, so I tried to put the Ts in the lines right in the middle. But yeah, T the front lines and go to the front master, and T the rears and go to the rear master.
  5. Since you mentioned bumpstops, what kind of bumpstops are you going to run? They're actually a very important part of the suspension, and most people with Zs run hard, crude, polyurethane from Energy Suspension, which suck donkey balls. I would suggest if you don't already have them you look at some of the longer, more compressible ones like Koni or FatCat Motorsports sells. They act more like a spring than a piece whose only responsibility is to keep suspension parts from slamming together.
  6. I wouldn't think it would be a problem if you have a needle bearing in the top hat already, but since it obviously is, bearings on the springs should help.
  7. It's pretty common for the spring to wear on the coilover sleeves. The problem is worse when you use longer springs. The longer the spring, the more it deflects. Bearings under one or both ends of the springs are a good idea as they help the spring to compress with less friction and will allow the strut to rotate more freely. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Strange-S1409-Spring-Seat-Bearing-Kit-2-pack-Torrington/123588766568?hash=item1cc676eb68:g:SvYAAOSwNm5ZsbJl
  8. That doesn't look abnormal. This thread goes over a bunch of causes:
  9. The G Machine TC setup is better than running poly in front IMO. Still should run rubber on the back so that it moves freely. They do wear, and may need replacing every few years. I used to take them apart and inspect and grease them up every so often. This video on polyurethane bushings in a Miata is really really really good. If you understand how the bushing is supposed to work than you can reduce some of the problems you'll encounter with the poly bushings that you'll buy for a Z, main one being the poly is too wide and the center sleeve is too short on pretty much everything as it comes out of the box. You can fix with a belt sander. Also I'd suggest drilling and tapping the control arms and sway bar saddles for zerk fittings. You will have to drill a hole in the bushing as well, but this will allow the bushings to be greased during services and will cut down on friction a lot. Don't bother with the inside bushings on the rear control arms. The bushing saddles aren't tight enough and the grease won't get in between the bushing and the sleeve. Outers on rear lcas works, as does inners on front, and the saddles on the sway bars.
  10. FWIW, I had a brand new brake system with new calipers, hard lines, soft lines, and dual masters that wouldn't bleed. Tried by myself, with help, with a mity vac and couldn't get a good pedal. What finally worked for me was using a 60cc food syringe and putting the fluid in through the bleeders at the calipers. I think there was a bubble that just wouldn't come out of the masters no matter what I did, but pushing the fluid backwards dislodged it.
  11. Yes, the hoop can be welded to the surrounding sheet. I have some shear panels welded between the sides of the car just behind the door and the vertical part of the hoop, and a couple 4" wide tabs where I welded the map bar to the top of the hoop. I totally agree that this is the way to take care of the C (actually B since Z has no B pillar) pillar paint cracking. 20 years or so ago I had a friend who ripped the A pillar off of his 240 autoxing it. He fixed the A pillar and welded in a 4 point bar and added one 6" wide shear plate just on the top and that got rid of all the interior panel creaking when he would go into driveways.
  12. I can definitely relate to Michael. Mine took 12 years to drive, although I took a couple years off. My suggestion is if you really want a done up chassis that's caged and ready to race, buy someone else's race car and start from there. If it's a street car I'd focus on things that are easy to accomplish and don't get too hung up on perfection. Things like strut tower bars make a big difference on a 240. Look at Apex Engineering's K member front crossmember setups, bolt in and connects the front X member to the TC rod buckets. Another simple area to brace is from the end of the rocker panel to the upper frame rail. You can pull the front fenders, weld those tubes in, cut the little piece that separates the fender from the wheel well, and bolt the fender back on.
  13. The boxes are the same, it's the pedals that are different. If you got an automatic brake pedal should install right into your existing pedal box.
  14. In my limited experience when mechanical pumps fail they spray oil all over the engine compartment. Electric pump doesn't put heat in the fuel like mech pump does, if that matters. Had issues with vapor lock on the L6 way back when. I fixed by eliminating the stock mech pump and fuel rail. Not sure if SBC has that problem very often.
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