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JMortensen

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JMortensen last won the day on April 8

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About JMortensen

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    JonDatsun
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    petdoorstore.com

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    Seattle area, WA

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  1. There is very little money to be made in making performance parts for a 50 yo Japanese sports car, both because the market is so small and because for many people the attraction to these cars is that they're cheap. Maybe that last part will change, but certainly when I bought mine price was the primary concern. Seems to me that Apex does more engineering than most, since he actually shows his FEA results, etc, and looking at some of the other kludged together shit that has been sold his looks relatively good. That said, there have been problems, like the failure to produce the tra
  2. The wrong one. Hawk Black. John Coffey recommended them 15 years ago and I bought based on the idea that they have a decently wide temp range. There are better options these days. Main issue I have is insane amounts of dust.
  3. I think you'll find that all those warnings you heard about not having any bottom end are way overblown. It will be fine, you're going to love it.
  4. I had a .490/280 cam and wanted to step up to something like you have but ended up LS swapping instead. I love almost everything about the way lightened flywheels work. Revs drop faster so it will shift faster as a result, much easier to heel/toe, engine braking is better, acceleration is better. 2 complaints you'll hear about them is that they make it hard to hold a consistent speed on the freeway, and the trans will probably sound like it has marbles in it at idle in neutral. I never had a problem with the freeway thing at all, and the marbles thing is irritating, but worth it. I've read tha
  5. The lightest you can get, I'd go steel if possible, and with the least mass around the edge of the wheel. You see some with holes around the perimeter. That is the way to go, as removing mass from the edge is more important than in the middle. When you go light you do have to be good about not putting too much heat into the flywheel, so if you have bad habits, you'll want to get rid of them before you ruin your new part. FWIW the AZC one was 12 lbs, I drove with a heavy pressure plate and cammed L28 with 44s in traffic, was easy to drive. I think the crankshaft itself is so long and heavy t
  6. Takes 5 lbs off, OK. Turns a 25 lb flywheel down to 5? I don't think so, but I certainly wouldn't run it if they did. If you really want lightweight, get a button clutch that has a smaller diameter multiplate clutch on an automatic flexplate. Here's the dual 7.25" clutch I've got on my LS. IIRC the flexplate and clutch and everything was right around 20lbs.
  7. I did something similar with 1/4" steel after 3 different machinists looked at my old AZC flywheel. All three picked it up, looked at it for about 5 seconds, then looked at me and said: "That's cool. Do you have a scattershield?" I think the stuff he was selling after the 90s was better designed. Mine had sharp corner cuts right through the pressure plate bolt holes and nothing was radiused.
  8. Mine's a trailered autox car so not many miles on it. It definitely has some stone chips in the flares, but the biggest damage so far has come from hitting a cone with the rear flare. Spider cracked the gel coat. Still haven't decided what to do about it, but I don't want to put a lot of work into making it pretty because it's a Rustoleum painted race car.
  9. I dig it. Reminds me of the 80's 930 Turbo with the black guards on the rear flares. Was considering doing something similar on mine.
  10. Having the cell in the pass side was done back in the day. It offsets driver weight and makes a lot of room for a big ass diffuser, which isn't legal but could be made to be easily removed. Search youtube for AJ Hartmann, he makes CF parts and shows how to install onto the car, IIRC shows how his gigantic splitter and diffuser are removed so he can get the car on the trailer.
  11. The JTR manual says up 3/4, out 1/4 inch. IME from stock on a 240, you need to raise the pivot about 7/16" to minimize bumpsteer, without moving it outwards at all. Making either end wider will increase grip at that end, so if you have an understeering Z (which is their natural tendency) then making the front wider would help. Almost nobody does it though. Some racers will run wheel spacers for that reason, that's about it.
  12. I realized the the shock will still be topped out, so I was wrong about cutting the tube releasing the spring.
  13. I'm betting those wheel speed sensors could be used for traction control. That would be really cool. Is that part of your plan?
  14. What is up with the SCCA shutting down the season? Is that just a covid thing? Just saw something hit my inbox yesterday about it being shut down. I'll probably be out of commission this year due to an upcoming surgery anyway. Can't tell if your pic is ABS or fire suppression. LOL
  15. The springs on a Z are soft and aren't compressed that much. I've taken plenty of them off by just aiming the strut away from me and zipping the nut off with an impact. The top hat will only fly a couple feet. It's not a big deal on a Z. On most newer cars, MUCH different story and very dangerous. IIRC though the 240 front spring rate is under 100 lbs rear is just over, and is compressed an inch or two. Not that much force. 280 has slightly stiffer springs and similar compression distance. If you removed the springs and then couldn't get the gland nut loose then I would think that using a saw
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