JMortensen

It looks like it's too high off the ground to really have the effect that a diffuser should have, based on the wind tunnel testing that I've read about in Racecar Engineering and elsewhere. I'd like to see some hard numbers from cfd or a wind tunnel to prove it's effectiveness.

How did you measure the effect of the diffuser after installation?

The bolt in style just bolt in. No jacking or anything needed. The adjustable style with rod ends on both ends just need to be slacked so that there is no tension on the bolts, then the bolts removed.

All of the stock cams are puny. C grind is so slightly different than the others that I seriously doubt a dyno would show a difference outside of it's margin of error.

Yes, just make sure the cam rotates freely after the new towers are bolted down.

Should be the same thing, unless I'm missing something.

I'm a bit confused by "the more aggressive of the 2 common rear ends." Can you clarify that? If it is the typical LSD chatter, you just need to add LSD additive. They're all the same, whether it's GM or Chrysler LSD additive or Ford's "friction modifier" or any of the others. That will get rid of the problem. Without additive a tight LSD will make some hellacious noises, banging and popping.

How about a piece of door weather strip from JC Whitney?

Check out post #39: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122509&page=2

What do you mean by "a bit above stock"?

If it still doesn't make sense, this thread goes into more detail: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96707 I was running a 4 speed shifter and didn't have any issues with it popping out of gear, but I did have a little rubbing on the shifter under the pivot. Read the whole thread, because I started off thinking I knew what I was talking about...

Not to get political, but I see an error in there. The tax rate on the top bracket in 1952 was 91%. Today it is 35%. http://www.truthandpolitics.org/top-rates.php

Please be more descriptive in your titles. We want people to know what the thread is about without having to open it up. Rebuild on a Z 5 speed books out for 5 hours labor if the trans is out of the car, if I recall correctly. These transmissions aren't that hard to rebuild, you can definitely do it yourself if you have a manual, and I think they are fairly prone to damage if you're not nice to them. They don't explode with a missed shift, but the synchros seem to be on the sensitive side.

Welcome, Bohemian Funk. I see that these are your only two posts here. Your titles need to be descriptive so that when people are searching through the database they don't need to open your post to figure out what it is about. Please take 3 minutes and read through the rules before you post again: http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=93&a=2

Based on the other descriptions in the thread you linked to, it sounds like the machine shop is pushing the seals too far down on the guide. The L series seals are going to be L series seals, and won't give extra clearance for a larger cam.

I would expect damage at the crossmember as the most likely damage. It might take a while to actually show a crack, but that's what I'd look for. If it were severely bound it might be difficult to move the control arm up and down with no strut attached.

Pretty much any auto parts store in the US will have Fel Pro gaskets. I am surprised you can't get them in Aruba. I'm moving your thread to non-tech as it isn't about the gaskets themselves, just where to buy. I'll also change the title.

I believe the RX7 is different in that the entire arm (the arm has both the LCA and TC rod all built into one) pivots when you change caster. On the Z it's different because the LCA moves independently of the TC rod, so lengthening the TC rod changes the of the LCA as it relates to the frame. The delrin is in my opinion a bad idea even on a stock front control arm on the Z car because the caster sweep causes the control arm to move on an arc, and the delrin/aluminum doesn't allow for that range of motion.

That don't make no sense. It still has to work out via the geometry. Unless you had super short struts (like frame rails below ground level), I don't think this is possible.

It's been a while, but I thought there was only a cup on the front side, and not on the back. I think that driver's side would definitely cause a vague or wiggly feeling under braking, and the car probably wouldn't track too well on bumpy roads. Should be pretty easy to fix though, just weld a new piece of metal in.

What hubs again? 280z's have 4 lugs.

Correct. Lower cg = less longitudinal weight transfer under braking (also less lateral when turning). Don't try to compare what you have now to what you'll be running with the duals. The pedal ratio is different and you won't have a booster, and the rear being a different diameter makes any comparison of when the fronts lock vs the rears useless, unless of course you thought you needed two of the same size masters...

I think your estimate is way high. In looking at what 74_5.0L_Z and tube80z had estimated their cg to be, I came up with 11-12 inches for my car. Your's might be a bit higher due to the taller wheels. Maybe 13" or 14". Unfortunately actually measuring cg is a bitch and a half.

Yep, I'm talking about Mike. I don't think he has this one running on oil yet.

You need to figure out the pedal ratio you are going to use, then you need to match the size of the bore to get the correct line pressure at the correct foot pressure. The stock pedal box is something like 4:1. I modded mine and got more like 4.75:1. Most aftermarket pedals are 5:1 or 6:1 if I recall correctly. If you look online you'll find spreadsheets that will help you. I tried to use one from Tom Holt, but found that it wasn't accurate when you tried to change some of the variables. Get a known good spreadsheet or just email tilton. They need to know the size of the rotors, number and size of pistons, ratio of the pedal assy, and I think that's it. You can get more intense with coefficient of friction of the pads and expected braking g's, but I think tilton can get you in the ball park without that info. I believe most of the spreadsheets base their estimates on a pedal pressure of 50 lbs, at least that's what I've seen most often.