JMortensen

Used to be you had to submit a post to the FAQ and it had to be approved to get in there.

Also losing fluid from one of the reservoirs is usually a symptom of a bad primary cup seal in the master. If it's in the front it will usually push fluid into the rear reservoir. If it's in the rear it will dump fluid into the booster. I've had a brand new Tilton master leak. I'm sure it's not unheard of with Wilwood as well.

Hole in the diaphragm makes the hissing/whistling noise.

I got through all of them with 3 Harbor Freight cobalt bits. Broke the first 2 bits on the first two bolts. Once I changed the angle I was drilling at, no problems at all. I agree cobalt is the way to go though. I used to get Harbor Freight gift cards as credit card rewards so I have a ton of their tools and have tried all their bits. They all suck, except the cobalt ones, which are pretty amazingly good IME.

I also figured out that if I set up the drill jig in a way that the drill bit hit the inside of the Allen head flat, that was better than hitting an angled surface. You can see how oblonged the hole in the tool is, but as you said earlier, placement doesn't really matter, just need to get a hole in the bolt for the wire to pass through.

Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J83Q2V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There is a larger hole on one side and a smaller on the other side of the piece that locks onto the head of the bolt. I'm using .031 safety wire, so I used the smaller side. When drilling through the round head, it barely hit the bolt at all, so I just drilled a hole farther over. It's a cheap tool and really there are super hard drill bushings that you can buy that would make this thing a lot more durable but probably increase the price a lot. My self drilled hole has already wallowed out quite a bit, but it will work for 8 bolts. If I was doing this a lot I'd buy a better tool. I'll take a pic when I get out to the shop today.

I ended up just drilling a hole in the tool so that I can drill right through the middle of the bolt. It was going through at an angle. Drilled 5 more bolts without breaking the bit. Two more to go, just ran out of time.

Good idea, thanks.

They're 10x1.25, so no, none of those will work. Drilled 2 so far. Really not that bad. Takes about 5 minutes per bolt. Problem is that when the drill bit pierces through the far side of the bolt it breaks. 2 in a row. I'm just going to keep moving up in drill bit size. Hopefully as they get bigger they'll get tougher. I have 2 complete cobalt drill indexes so I'll have enough, but it's going to be a bummer losing 8 drill bits (4 bolts on Z31T CVs x 2).

If you make the rollcage structural and then the skin is just skin.

My car had rust in this area. Not as bad, but I found it above the quarter window on the outside. The sheet metal was all bulged out around the spot welds. I cut it out and fixed it, but again, wasn't as bad as yours. It's fixable, but at some point you have to consider how many hours you want to put into it.

I have longer than stock control arms. Definitely not binding. I actually sold the short axles for a while to solve that problem, but that was after I fabbed up the control arms for my own car to fix. Might have something to do with my flexplate/button clutch, which is extremely aggressive, or the 14" wide slicks. Whatever the reason, it's happening and I'm gonna fix it. I did look up the torque spec and it's 55 ft/lbs, so I was definitely undertorquing them.

Thanks. I use bacon grease for cutting fluid. Machinist taught me that one, works great. As far as drill bits, I'm hoping my cobalt bits from HF do the trick. They're shockingly good drill bits, but the bolts are 12.9 so might be hard to get through...

I've seen threads about this from time to time. Always thought it was particularly the Wolf Creek CVs and it was flex between the AL adapter and the steel CV that caused it, but mine is steel to steel and still having the same problem. Figure I'll post up my problem and solution and whether it works. Problem: Z31T CV 4 bolts are loosening when racing. I replaced the hex bolts with allen bolts because the hex head was so close to the CV body that it's impossible to get a socket on it. Using 12.9 grade bolts. Ran 1 autox, they were loose again. Red loctite. Ran another autox, loose again. Solution: drill and safety wire the bolts. Bought a bolt drilling jig off of Amazon for a whopping $25. Hopefully it works well and I can safety wire the bolts. Already have pliers and all that from wiring my front rotors to the hats. Anyway, will report back when the tool comes and the install is done, then report again later on when I take the wire off and check for bolt stretch probably in the winter.

DIY, start on the bottom or around the spare tire well where nobody will see it. I can't imagine what it would cost to have all that work done at a shop. Thousands for sure.

Eh, I fixed the battery issue and it's running great now. If I find myself putting in a different motor I might switch, but lack of power is not an issue, currently. The only issue I have that I think FI would fix is that when tuned for acceleration there isn't enough fuel to rev the car with no load, so it doesn't heel/toe very well at all. I tuned the carb to rev quickly and that's why it was so incredibly rich on the dyno. I think this is a function of the flexplate and button clutch. It revs so fast that the carb can't keep up, or the carb keeps up and then when that same rev is under load there is way too much fuel being dumped in.

Going to build a rotisserie? Makes fixing rust on the floor so much easier. If you haven't already seen it, 74_5.0L_Z's car is pretty amazing. I think he's now running a 331 or similar stroker. Bad ass car from front to back. Good for inspiration.

As to the separate toe link part of Cary's suggestion, you can read this. If you would prefer to buy, Apex Engineering has basically my end result for sale now:

I used something like tube80z's idea on a set of arms I built but never used. I just added angle iron so that the end links were in double shear. I would suggest you add your connections to the bottom of the control arm so that you can use longer end links, although this gives you a left arm and a right arm. If you put the mount in plane with the control arm you will still have universal arms but will need shorter end links.

Mine's an L33. Has caused confusion in the past...

No offense taken. When I was 16 I had a bunch of friends who got me into Datsuns and they were all purists, so I came up believing that pushrods sucked and OHC was fantastic, that V8s couldn't rev, that the L series was a fantastic engine, etc. Mid 90s we had Carl Beck's email group and I started seeing people with V8s and who just generally weren't so closed minded. The guy who, up to that point, had taught me everything I knew about Datsuns (and was a Nissan master tech and legit Z car whiz) was one of these "don't go too big on the cam" guys. So I had tiny cams in my truck and my Z. Some people on the internet disagreed, and I remember him saying something to the effect of "how do you know that they know what they're talking about?" I decided to get a much bigger cam than he suggested, and it was a huge improvement, at which point I realized that I could actually have a pretty good idea if someone knew what they were talking about. BTW after driving my L28 with .490/280 cam, he immediately went for a .580/310 or something like that for his L18. At least he realized he was dead wrong. Then I started to notice a lot of people like Pete Paraska were talking up V8s and that put a little seed into my brain. Later I was looking for GOOD suspension tech and John Coffey suggested Hybrid Z, and I took a look and found tons of good information. Same friend had a standard autox alignment: -1.25 degrees front, -1.5 degrees rear, 1/8 toe in front and rear, 3 degrees caster. As it turns out, this is a shitty, understeering autox alignment. Hybrid Z recommended a lot more camber and caster, and more neg camber in front than rear, and zero or toe out in front. Again, huge improvement. And all these smart people on this forum were ditching the L series and running V8s. I came to realize that all of my preconceived notions about adding huge amounts of weight to the front end were just wrong, and I realized that I wanted more power than I was getting from the L28/44 Mikuni combo I had, and it was probably going to cost $10K to get another 50 hp if I kept on with it. Also realized that having intake and exhaust on the same side of the motor is pretty shitty, and since these engines are all smog era designs the combustion chambers aren't great, in short, the L series isn't the best engine design. Had the same revelation about my Toyota truck with 22RE. For the longest time I thought that was a GREAT motor. Now I wish I had pulled my head out of my ass years earlier... Anyway I was looking for more power and by this time I had changed my mind and realized that hp is hp and it doesn't really matter what you use to get it, if the goal is to go fast. In fact, the cheaper the hp the better, since race engines tend to wear fast or break, so I decided on the LS since it's cheap and easy. I still love the sound of the L series and don't hate them, but I feel like I have a better handle on what makes a motor good or bad than I did when I was a kid.

Just pull the springs and jack the control arms until they're level, and that should be close to ride height. Can check bumpsteer while you're in there.

I bent mine, front and rear, in all kinds of directions. No problems.

Here's a crappy drawing on bending the bar. Just lay it over the base and push on the bend. Keep measuring eyelet to eyelet. Bend one side until they move 1" apart, then flip and do the same on the other side. 10 minutes max.

Bend the bar. If you have a press you can bend them pretty easily. Surprisingly easily.