JMortensen

The front part of the rear fender is also an issue. Could move the up angle in the back to cover.

Now thinking something like this. Always loved this car and this would be fairly easy to do.

I painted my Z with white Rustoleum sprayed out of an HVLP gun about 5 years ago or so. After a few races I had pretty serious exhaust stains behind my side pipes, and stains on the doors from tape and other tan stains that looked like dirty water had dripped down the sides of the car. Went and tried to wash it today, that didn't work at all, so I ended up basically wet sanding most of the car with 500 grit. I don't think the car is going to get different exhaust anytime soon, so I'm just trying to figure out something to do to make it less noticeable, and maybe make the car prettier in the process. Would like to advertise my business as well. Basically thinking about stripes or something and my web address across the back. Don't really know ANYTHING about getting that done. My initial thought for this car like 12 years ago was to do dazzle camo on it. This is basically sharp angles and stripes, used by navies back in WWI days. Here is an example: Was originally planning blue and white. Now I'm thinking black would hide the exhaust stains better. Thinking about masking sections off, shooting with black, then laying pin striping black tape over the edge to hide the lines. Nice part about dazzle camo is you can't do it "wrong." Never attempted anything quite like this, just looking for suggestions. One thing I remember seeing blueovalz do was to use a laser level that makes a line on the wall. He hung it from his rafters and made lines down the top of his car for super accurate, straight racing stripes. Straight won't matter if I go dazzle camo, but it was a great idea. Also a lead on where I could buy a 4' wide piece of vinyl with my business's web address would help.

Got them done. I haven't done safety wire in about 8 years, had to figure it all out again, but got it done. Mario, who is a member here but I can't remember his username also suggested these. I think if I had seen these I'd do this instead: https://www.stage8.com/

I was thinking same thing, but he says no lights. Ign module wouldn't cut the lights.

<---- nm, dumbass didn't read goodly enough.

Nothing unsafe about it if you do it right.

Used to be you had to submit a post to the FAQ and it had to be approved to get in there.

Also losing fluid from one of the reservoirs is usually a symptom of a bad primary cup seal in the master. If it's in the front it will usually push fluid into the rear reservoir. If it's in the rear it will dump fluid into the booster. I've had a brand new Tilton master leak. I'm sure it's not unheard of with Wilwood as well.

Hole in the diaphragm makes the hissing/whistling noise.

I got through all of them with 3 Harbor Freight cobalt bits. Broke the first 2 bits on the first two bolts. Once I changed the angle I was drilling at, no problems at all. I agree cobalt is the way to go though. I used to get Harbor Freight gift cards as credit card rewards so I have a ton of their tools and have tried all their bits. They all suck, except the cobalt ones, which are pretty amazingly good IME.

I also figured out that if I set up the drill jig in a way that the drill bit hit the inside of the Allen head flat, that was better than hitting an angled surface. You can see how oblonged the hole in the tool is, but as you said earlier, placement doesn't really matter, just need to get a hole in the bolt for the wire to pass through.

Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J83Q2V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There is a larger hole on one side and a smaller on the other side of the piece that locks onto the head of the bolt. I'm using .031 safety wire, so I used the smaller side. When drilling through the round head, it barely hit the bolt at all, so I just drilled a hole farther over. It's a cheap tool and really there are super hard drill bushings that you can buy that would make this thing a lot more durable but probably increase the price a lot. My self drilled hole has already wallowed out quite a bit, but it will work for 8 bolts. If I was doing this a lot I'd buy a better tool. I'll take a pic when I get out to the shop today.

I ended up just drilling a hole in the tool so that I can drill right through the middle of the bolt. It was going through at an angle. Drilled 5 more bolts without breaking the bit. Two more to go, just ran out of time.

Good idea, thanks.

They're 10x1.25, so no, none of those will work. Drilled 2 so far. Really not that bad. Takes about 5 minutes per bolt. Problem is that when the drill bit pierces through the far side of the bolt it breaks. 2 in a row. I'm just going to keep moving up in drill bit size. Hopefully as they get bigger they'll get tougher. I have 2 complete cobalt drill indexes so I'll have enough, but it's going to be a bummer losing 8 drill bits (4 bolts on Z31T CVs x 2).

If you make the rollcage structural and then the skin is just skin.

My car had rust in this area. Not as bad, but I found it above the quarter window on the outside. The sheet metal was all bulged out around the spot welds. I cut it out and fixed it, but again, wasn't as bad as yours. It's fixable, but at some point you have to consider how many hours you want to put into it.

I have longer than stock control arms. Definitely not binding. I actually sold the short axles for a while to solve that problem, but that was after I fabbed up the control arms for my own car to fix. Might have something to do with my flexplate/button clutch, which is extremely aggressive, or the 14" wide slicks. Whatever the reason, it's happening and I'm gonna fix it. I did look up the torque spec and it's 55 ft/lbs, so I was definitely undertorquing them.

Thanks. I use bacon grease for cutting fluid. Machinist taught me that one, works great. As far as drill bits, I'm hoping my cobalt bits from HF do the trick. They're shockingly good drill bits, but the bolts are 12.9 so might be hard to get through...

I've seen threads about this from time to time. Always thought it was particularly the Wolf Creek CVs and it was flex between the AL adapter and the steel CV that caused it, but mine is steel to steel and still having the same problem. Figure I'll post up my problem and solution and whether it works. Problem: Z31T CV 4 bolts are loosening when racing. I replaced the hex bolts with allen bolts because the hex head was so close to the CV body that it's impossible to get a socket on it. Using 12.9 grade bolts. Ran 1 autox, they were loose again. Red loctite. Ran another autox, loose again. Solution: drill and safety wire the bolts. Bought a bolt drilling jig off of Amazon for a whopping $25. Hopefully it works well and I can safety wire the bolts. Already have pliers and all that from wiring my front rotors to the hats. Anyway, will report back when the tool comes and the install is done, then report again later on when I take the wire off and check for bolt stretch probably in the winter.

DIY, start on the bottom or around the spare tire well where nobody will see it. I can't imagine what it would cost to have all that work done at a shop. Thousands for sure.

Eh, I fixed the battery issue and it's running great now. If I find myself putting in a different motor I might switch, but lack of power is not an issue, currently. The only issue I have that I think FI would fix is that when tuned for acceleration there isn't enough fuel to rev the car with no load, so it doesn't heel/toe very well at all. I tuned the carb to rev quickly and that's why it was so incredibly rich on the dyno. I think this is a function of the flexplate and button clutch. It revs so fast that the carb can't keep up, or the carb keeps up and then when that same rev is under load there is way too much fuel being dumped in.

Going to build a rotisserie? Makes fixing rust on the floor so much easier. If you haven't already seen it, 74_5.0L_Z's car is pretty amazing. I think he's now running a 331 or similar stroker. Bad ass car from front to back. Good for inspiration.

As to the separate toe link part of Cary's suggestion, you can read this. If you would prefer to buy, Apex Engineering has basically my end result for sale now: