JMortensen

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

It's been a while since the rules have gotten a revamp, so we've gone ahead and updated them. The changes are not groundbreaking, however, even if you've been a member for a long time please take a minute to read the new rules. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Thanks everyone, The Hybrid Z Admin Staff

I guess you didn't see this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115846. I really want to make sure you see that one. There was nothing technical about this thread either, so I moved it to the non-tech board in addition to renaming it. I suppose I should have PM'd you, but I guess I figured you'd recognize it when you saw it.

I agree, I think the iron sights is a SEVERE limiting factor in this case. I bet that just by adding a scope and doing nothing else that group gets 2x smaller, maybe more. Then you can start working on trigger squeeze and all that. That dummy round idea is a great one, that will really show you when you're flinching. It takes some self control to stop flinching, but it shouldn't be too hard when you're only shooting .223. My dad was on the Army rifle and pistol team. His tips for trigger squeeze are: 1. Take a deep breath. Let 1/2 of it out and hold. Then squeeze steadily. 2. Squeeze with your whole hand, not just your trigger finger. 3. If you do it right, you shouldn't know when the gun is going to go off. It should surprise you every time.

In order to calculate your compression ratio, you need to know the volume of the combustion chambers. If you search here and on the internet in general you'll find threads on cc'ing the combustion chambers. You can also measure the height of the head. Stock is 4.250" inches I think so subtract your measurement from that and that will give you and idea of how much was shaved. Also, I put a better title on your thread. Please try to use descriptive titles in the future.

Keep in mind those AZC pistons fit L24 rods. Probably a worthwhile upgrade, but that's another part to buy, and you'll want the 9mm bolt version of the L24 rod, then resize, and use ARP bolts...

Yeah, it does. Looks like the strut tops are stock, and possibly part of the pan as well. Rear suspension doesn't look fabricated either, at least not the part that it attaches to. That said, that is one badass car and I would LOVE to own it!

Welcome to Hybrid Z. The SR20DET is becoming a pretty popular swap so there is quite a bit of info here already. I used the search button at the top of the screen and searched for "weight distribution SR" and found lots of good info. The 4th thread down with that search was this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104720 where John Coffey talks about his own L6 Z vs Amirs SR20DET Z that John's shop Beta Motorsports built. There might be other info if you do the same search and read the other threads. Search before you post in the future, and there is a pretty good chance you'll find what you're looking for. Welcome again!

If you're only using it for weekend trips, how likely is it that you're going to blow the engine? Seems to me like at the current rate of usage you can hang onto it and then drop the LS engine in at your leisure. The FD is one awesome car, and with yours being an R1, I'd hang onto it.

4 cylinder cars or rotaries with no torque is where that started. Having driven both with a light flywheel I can say that they can be difficult to get off the line. L6 though, NO PROBLEMO!

I'm looking at the main forum page and seeing the following threads: V8 section: Thoughts on this: 6 Cylinder: How about a little teaser Fabrication: Can someone help? These are horrible thread titles, folks. I had to open all of these threads to figure out what they were about. This kind of stuff makes it that much harder to find what you want with the search function. When you're searching you will have NO CLUE as to what is in these threads at all. PLEASE take everyone into consideration and write descriptive titles. I'm going to try and fix these threads in the meantime.

String setups in general are not hokey. I'm going to try to figure out a string setup myself. My problem is that I never really understood how you get the strings parallel to the centerline of the car. Once its done centered it should be fine especially if it bolts to the car but getting the string holder aligned is the part that still mystifies me. I'm not sold on that one that you linked to, because I don't understand you you center the contraption on the car with any kind of repeatable results. I agree, that camber gauge does look like the rim style. I still don't think that that style of camber gauge has an advantage over a square though. If you ONLY want to find the camber in your garage, great. But what if you're at the track and you want to make an adjustment. Now suddenly the floor not being perfectly level is an issue. If you just wanted to do alignments on the Z, you could cut a square down so that it was the right height for your tires and then I'm sure you could put marks on the square corresponding to degrees of camber. Then you wouldn't need any trig at all, and it wouldn't rely so heavily on the ground being level.

I don't think the magnetic hub style works very well on our Z's. Its been many years since I've held one, but I think they stick to the hub right where the dust seals goes on, and I don't think that surface is very true. I could be wrong, but that's what I seem to remember. I have the bubble style gauge and it's not the most accurate. Biggest problem is that you need a completely flat floor to measure it. Also, I had an engineer measure my caster with the turning the wheels and finding the camber then doing the math to come up with the caster. This was the guy who built my TC rods, and he tried to set caster at 7 degrees when he put them on the car. He was off more than 3 degrees, and they ended up at about 4 degrees. You really need slip plates to accurately measure the amount you turn the wheel to get the caster measurement accurate in my opinion. I think that's where he failed. Measuring the camber angle on the tire with a square seems to be the best way to do it barring an actual trip to a real alignment machine. Even then, some alignment machines are better than others, so the square and the trig might just be more accurate all the time.

Not sure what that is in the video. Our own John Coffey had a sequential Quaife gearbox with a dual 5.5" clutch setup, that's probably about the craziest transmission choice you can make for a Z imo.

Uh... look up.

You can use an LSD carrier that replaces the open carrier from KAAZ or Cusco for the 240SX , and you can install that in the earlier R200 longnose diff. Details are in the "What diff should I choose?" sticky post.

Is it the paint scheme on the hood? That threw me off until I realized what it was. It almost looks like shadows, but not quite right...

Nobody is "posturing up" and nobody is calling anybody stupid (or stoopid). The admins do not do this because we find it frustrating or annoying either. We love this site and the creativity and passion for Z's that drives it, and that comes from the users. The point of my responses to this thread were that there is a ton of info on this subject here. You won't find a step by step procedure for putting a tube frame front end on a car here. But if that's what someone is looking for; an exact recipe for how to do ANYTHING, then they're looking for the wrong thing. This is Hybrid Z and we are all about installing parts that don't fit into these cars. So when you search and you don't find a step by step manual for your project, then you need to take the useful info from related topics and incorporate that info into your project. When you aren't sure how to do THAT, then post. That's when the incredibly talented members of our forum will REALLY come out of the woodwork to help out.

I used the 12 lb AZC flywheel on my L28 in stop and go traffic for 3 years with my 44 Mikunis, a bigger cam than most, and an ACT pressure plate with a stock disk. It was not hard to drive at all. I have friends with 510s and I've driven an L16 with 44 Mikunis a huge cam, Tilton aluminum flywheel and Nissan comp pp and that was damn near impossible to get off the line. The extra inertia from the longer crank and the 2 cylinders, along with the low end torque they provide makes all the difference as far as driveability. And the light flywheel provides a GREAT benefit in acceleration and shifting, especially if you heel/toe downshift.

Good point about the title. Which is why we don't like titles like "I have an idea" or "What about this?". Still need people to read though.

The general consensus is that wide ratios and a tall geared rear end is best for boosted applications. NA likes close ratios and lower rear gears.

I found these threads on the FIRST page of search results for "chassis stiffening". If you aren't finding them, you aren't looking very hard. When you search you aren't likely to find exactly what you are looking for. These threads have info that should be useful though. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114913 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112328 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96998 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111590 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106618 Here is a thread from deeper in that has info on a full tube chassis front end: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96998 The thread isn't hidden, it's just buried a little ways in the archives. Be dilligent with the search and you'll find what you're looking for. Try different search terms, keep reading, and you'll find it.