JMortensen

I like it too! That's going to be pretty damn cool looking, especially for a roller paint job.

I think this is kind of like the "should I anti-seize my spark plugs?" issue. IMHO, using the anti-seize on the lugs is a good idea. I've never worked at a shop that didn't use it. I do recall a couple years ago that Ford started using some super-bitchin lube on their truck lugs, and the wheels were falling off. So apparently the slipperyness effect can be overdone. Just like on the spark plugs, I use the anti-seize just to prevent damage to the threads when removing the lugs. As for torque I always to 80 ft/lbs.

You really need to pull the crank and rods to notch the block. I suppose you could try and catch all the shavings, but I wouldn't do it on my engine. It's kind of like porting the head with the head still bolted to the block. BAD IDEA. So disassemble the short block first. Then you can start to notch the block. What you want to do is get an L28 gasket, lay it on the block with the dowels in the block. Use a pick or a scribe to scratch a line in the block that represents where the headgasket ends. Use a die grinder with a carbide burr and you grind away the metal so that you push the edge back to the line that you scribed. Don't go too far into the cylinder, because you don't want to affect the top piston ring. I would not go more than 2/3 of the way down to the top ring. You'll be able to tell where that is because the top of the cylinder will be discolored above where the rings stop. That's pretty much it. Oh then remember to have results like Norm you'll need to shave the head .070 and shim the cam towers up, then redo the lash pads. All more labor intensive stuff. Or you could buy an L24 head. Matman has about 10 heads, I'm sure he'd sell you an E88 or an E31 for a reasonable price. You might want to PM him or email him before you get into all this other BS.

You can bleed all by yourself and get much better results with a bottle and a vacuum hose. Put a little brake fluid into the bottle. Attach the vacuum hose to the bleeder and stick the other end under the brake fluid level in the bottle. Then open the bleeder get in the car, pump 5 or 6 times all the way to the floor and all the way back up slowly. Get out, tighten bleeder valve, move to the next one. Really easy. The problem with gravity bleeding is that with the brake fluid moving so slowly the air bubbles might rise as fast as the fluid goes out. I've heard of people using gravity "bleeding" as a way to get fluid into the whole system, but never as a way to really get a good bleed on a brake system.

Me. No damage yet. Used my stock rockers on my first mild regrind. Then I went to a bigger regrind, and used the stock rockers again. Put 15K or so on the first one, then put another 30K on the second one.

That's right. Like the reverse of a sawblade.

I like the Muscle Car show. Seems like every week they're doing the same sorts of things I'm into on my car. Rust repair, frame repair, etc. The black guy's delivery is kind of fitting with the 16-25 demographic comment made earlier, but both of those guys actually know WTF they're doing, and they show it to a degree that other shows wouldn't. It'd be like "Next we have to fix the frame" and then they jump cut and now the frame is perfect and powdercoated already. I do like the chick on Extreme 4x4 too. Something about a chick that could teach me things about welding... oOo

Because 280 rear struts are longer than 240 rear struts. The fronts are the same. I agree though, I would have sectioned the front instead of lengthening the rear, especially for an autox car.

Why bother? Should be easy enough to find a L24 head, then you don't need to hassle with notching the block and all that. I think the advantage from the bigger valves will be offset by the lower compression and the fact that on the sides the valves will be right next to the cylinder walls, even if you notch the cylinder walls.

I've got a genuine Nissan one for sale that has about 40K on it in the classifieds. Think I paid ~$200.

Too small would be the problem there if it were related to the master size. Large master = less pedal throw and more pedal effort Small master = more pedal throw and less pedal effort Did you adjust the pushrod when you swapped the master? That's a pretty common thing to miss and missing it means a LONG throw. Also, make sure you don't drop the reaction disk when you're messing around in there.

It's INVISIBLE! J/K. Really its probably got one of these: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=1094

I reused mine and had no issues.

Wow! Insane! Have you seen those shots from Afghanistan where they strip a car and carry the parts across the Khyber Pass on a friggin camel then reassemble the car on the other side? Looks kinda similar, but they strap the shell on a single camel. Looks very weird.

2003z, all I see when I look at that web page is flashing thingies. What are we looking for?

Why not just use a rust converting primer like Zero-Rust or POR15 or Rust Bullet?

It's not in this list. Looks like they're all pretty much the same though. The L28ET and the L24E are the most tiny. They're all on the very small side though: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Once again, this product serves its purpose well.

They lost me when they went IFS. Wonder how hard it would be to swap an FJ60 front axle in there...

Mine had no headlight bucket and was completely bare FWIW.

I doubt it. Motorcycle helmets are built to Snell M approval, not Snell's SA approval. That's what makes helmet shopping so hard. You can't just run down to the motorcycle shop and try one on, because they have the wrong rating. I'd call them before you order.

Ducts on a street car isn't the best idea. I tried to run some because every time I'd go to the track I'd boil the fluid. I ended up with 2" ducting that had a big 180 degree turn in it so that the tire didn't hit it when I turned during street driving or autox. So basically it went straight back, then straight up, then 180'd back down about 8" further back so that the wheel wouldn't hit it, then was attached to the strut. It was a marginal improvement at best. Most ITS guys run 2 separate 3" ducts. You'll have to be really creative if you don't want it falling off the car or getting smashed every time you go over a speedbump. Autoxing just plain doesn't require ducts. If you do add ducts, try to get the smoothest tube inside that you can. I got mine from http://www.mcmaster.com, I think it was originally a vacuum duct. Dryer ducts that are really floppy aren't going to flow a whole lot of air just because the side of the duct is really ridged like this ^^^^^^^^^^

Same thing really: P79: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html 219: http://www.worldaccessnet.com/~dcmurphy/620/tech/head_ID_2.htm

For every different engine combo there is a "best" amount of timing to run, and if you can't get there because you're pinging, you're losing hp. It might be 37 degrees, it might be 32 degrees. One well respected racer I've talked to is running over 40 degrees on his 510 with an SSS head (look it up Mack, it's a heart shaped chamber too). The bottom line is you need to figure out where that best amount of timing is, then you need to provide the octane to run at that timing to get max power.

I disagree. I'd rather have a house than a really well designed $300,000 helmet. To answer the question though: http://www.racerwholesale.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=35