JMortensen

Haven't done it myself but watched a friend with a 510 do it probably 20 years ago. There are quite a few different pedal assemblies, some where the masters are still in the engine compartment, some where they're now in the cabin, floor mounted, etc, so they're all different. My friend's setup had the masters inside the car and he built a frame that bolted to the stock attachment points for the stock pedal assembly. He then put in a 3/4" steering column with parts out of a circle track supplier like Coleman Racing and sat in the car to make sure he had pedals and wheel where they were comfortable, then he just triangulated and welded more braces until it was stiff enough that he could really step on it without the frame flexing. I recall he had to do a couple different modifications to make it strong enough. I modified the stock pedal box for dual masters, I know others have done that too. Not that hard to do, so if you're completely baffled by making a mount for the Wilwood assy, that's another option.

There are a lot of guys running what you have. I haven't seen anyone else doing it my way. I wouldn't stress too much over it. The main issue is that if you lift straight up on the hub, yours will pivot forward, mine won't (as much?). Probably splitting hairs...

The strut top is in a fixed position and that's what holds the strut tube vertical. The difference between this design and mine with the toe link at the front is that the strut tube is on top of the rear pivot, so a simple push up or down on the hub (where the forces affect the suspension as the car goes over bumps and rolls) doesn't put a pivoting force (side load) on the strut tube as you show there if the toe link is in front. A solid control arm will deflect and that also puts load on the strut. The rear toe link design will put side load on the strut. The front toe link should put less than either because a vertical push to compress the strut won't twist things up as much. Check out posts 26 and 27: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62776-yet-another-rear-control-arm-design/page-2

Dig the TR4. Always wanted one.

Concerns with plastic would be if heat will sag it, and if it's strong enough it's probably really heavy. I don't think there is a commonly available plastic that will work. If you want cheap, get 1/2" thick birch plywood. Birch is stiffer than the other types, even oak. You can buy a sheet for about $40 and replace the thing a couple times. If you're feeling ironic, stain it for a classy look. Or pick up a NASCAR COT tegris splitter. I got one from Rousch Racing a few years ago. I think I paid $40 + shipping. It's woven like FG or CF, weight is simlar to plywood, but with a really durable wear surface. I would have used it, but was too narrow for my front end.

Telescoping steering column too, I suppose?

It's not the headroom that's the problem. It's the X in the main hoop. Even if you put a bent shoulder bar in like I did, the bottom part of that X will preclude the base of the seat from sliding back far enough.

You'll be alright then. You just won't be able to let your taller friends drive.

Tons of pics here or on facebook. www.facebook.com/Jon.E.Mortensen

How tall are you Jessie? Cage looks very nice, but looks like you might not have enough driver's seat clearance for someone 6' tall.

That's the regular LSD R200. The Nismo one has the shallower ramps. Yours will have the big spacer in it, so for Savage42's threads about extra clutches if you want to upgrade it.

Yeah, I think it's the C6 pan that is shallower than the LS1 pan but doesn't have the batwings.

I'm using a Kevco pan. I made mine shallow. Probably too shallow. I was concerned about the height to the xmember. When I bolted it up I found that the xmember and the trans were both about an inch lower than the bottom of the pan. Still has 5.5 qt capacity, trap door baffles, and remote oil cooler fittings (which I plumbed an accusump into). Only had mine out once to an autox, just got it running in October. I have a big oil pressure light and it never came on, FWIW. I believe the LS2 Vette pan is the shallowest of the stock pans FWIW.

Don't need 6061 either. Get whatever is cheapest.

Kinda like this shot:

Head is not junk. Could weld and fix. I read and was told not to expose anything more than the edge of the fire ring, but don't know if that is passable or not. If you're notching the block to match, you'll have a bit of gasket sticking out which may cost .0000267 hp.

Do you have a cage? Weld a nut to your cage and use that for the ground. Nice, solid metal. PM me your address and I'll send you some steel 1/4-20 nuts. I can't use them.

Camber gain won't be helped. Look at 74_5.0L_Z's sticky in the BWSC forum and he graphs out the camber curve. It's really linear. Have no idea if the bumpsteer will help in the ruts. Suspect not.

JTR is still around. Someone could just ask them how they came up with that 3/4" up and 1/4" out spec. I feel like I've repeated this here 100x, but for my car the difference before and after moving the pivot was night and day. There was one particular turn on one particular track that was making my car do an emergency lane change style swerve as I went over a bump. Also was sawing at the wheel a lot in sweepers. After moving the pivot up 7/16", the swerve was gone completely and the sawing at the wheel much diminished. It only did that swerve on that one corner, and the sawing at the wheel was only at the limit so this is one of those things I'd call a wasted of time for most people, but for racing was worth it.

Yes. A third is to raise or lower the rack. I have a slotted xmember with the LCA moved as high as possible with an aftermarket rack that was raised 3/4" with spacers and the tie rods spaced down to minimize the bump steer.

HF one works, although you can't buy rivnuts from them anymore, so once you run out, you'll have to get them from somewhere else. You can buy nuts from mcmaster.com. The steel ones are impossible to use with the HF pop rivet style tool, but the AL ones work great.

There are various recommendations. I think JTR says up 3/4 and out 1/4. I slotted the xmember and then moved the pivot up until the bumpsteer was minimized and that was more like 7/16" in my case. YMMV.

The cam swap is easy. I have the 5.3 in my 2006 GMC and it is done at 5500 rpm. If take the time to swap it even if you don't go bigger. Might want to check if you would need to upgrade the springs too. Not sure on that.

Nice, realistic expectations and looks like a good car to start with. Are you doing anything to the motor? Rated 310bhp stock, cam can bump that up quite a bit with no problems and the swap is easy. I used a 220/224 .581 on my L33. Haven't dyno'd mine but seems like should be in the 325-350 whp range based on what I've read online.

I'd suggest you do an all in one digital dash. That's what Id do if I could have a do-over. Mine (there is a wideband in the far right hole now):