JMortensen

This is a racing, non-power assist setup for dual brake masters and clutch hydraulics, not anything like a direct replacement. You would have to do a lot of fabrication to make that box work in your car. The only difference between the manual and automatic pedal assemblies is the pedals themselves. You should be able to buy the pedals and swap them into your pedal box. If you can't find pedals for sale separately, you can swap the whole box out, or buy a used setup and take the pedals off and install in yours. I know there are differences in the pedal boxes from different years, not sure what they are exactly, but that would be the thing to check.

I'd use G Machine in front and a stock rubber in the rear, or poly in front and stock rubber in rear.

Hey Mark, you might want to have a look at that Cannon intake. Mine had 40mm runners. Had to port the crap out of it to work with 44 Mikunis. I believe they never made one with 45mm runners.

When I did this, I was able to get the right side head about 1.5" from the firewall with the motor offset 1.5" to the right. To do this I had to cut the trans tunnel, and on my 240 the T56 is just about even with the frame rails underneath. Looks like you might be a smidge lower and forward compared to mine. I'd be looking at oil pan clearance and whether the trans hangs down out of the bottom of the car.

Not anytime soon. Focusing on work for the time being. Might be out mid-season.

You need MORE POWAH!!!11!!!!11!!1!1

It really sucks to have to do this here. This is what I put on my FB page: Really, really upset to hear about John Coffey's passing. Don't know any details, just seeing a bunch of sad people posting on his FB page. Never met him in person, but we have known each other since the 90s if I recall correctly, starting with Carl Beck's zhome email list. We talked on the phone a few times, he sent me some parts. Good guy, knew his stuff, and as much as people bitched about his style of administration over on Hybrid Z, I think he had it right, and made that site a better place to be. RIP John. You will be missed.

You use some thick string. It really is a significant amount, but the question is how accurate is the measurement, or how accurately are the strings set up?

If it is even, you might be able to slot the uprights up at the top where the bolt to the chassis. Just slide everything over two millimeters and problem solved. Several of us slotted the bottom of the uprights and used a turnbuckle in the middle. This way you could loosen up one side and twist the turnbuckle to change the toe. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/24100-the-poor-mans-rear-toe-in-adjuster/

Yes, the pinion depth spacers should be the same, because bearings are precision machined and should be the same size. I still like the idea of a blank to fit into the bottom of the holes. Just a piece of steel to take up that space. I'd make it so that there is just a little bit of end play, like .010" or so. I don't think the preload is that important, and there are similar LSD's (trutrac) which run just fine without any preload at all.

The hole is at an angle to mimic the bend in the stock knuckle. I agree with Tim that your safety washer shouldn't go there, but I have no idea why AZC would leave that angle in there for a rod end part with a through-bolt. If you're using a bump steer kit with a tapered pin that would make sense, and I think your answer then is that it wasn't built for that, it was made for use with stock tie rods.

No.

Duh. My bad. Never measured radial runout.

.090" is waaaaaay too much. There was another thread where people talked about shimming them. That's what I did. Used 5/16 shims from www.mcmaster.com and I shimmed mine to within .002" and have no problems. I don't think you can shim out .090, you will have to turn those. The problem is that when you turn them you make the rotor thinner on one side than the other. In your case, substantially thinner. You didn't tighten the bolts around in a circle, did you? You need to do a star pattern like lug nuts. Even if you did tighten across the bolt pattern, I'd loosen them up and tighten again, and then consider trying a different rotor on that hat. .090" is a hell of a lot of runout.

Miatas don't have a lot of headroom either. One thing guys do there is a "foamectomy" I did this on mine, basically you cut some amount of the foam out of the seat bottom. I suppose if you're not going with stock seats you can also pick a seat with less padding too.

I had a friend just out of high school who is 6'5" 265 (fat, not muscle) and he drove my Z just fine. I think the smaller 14" diameter steering wheel helped, but he actually used to talk about how much foot room there was.

I find it's easier to move the plates with the weight of the car on them. Not sure why that is, but it is.

If you're talking about 3" it probably doesn't matter. If you look at the NASCAR car of tomorrow splitter, it had a short diffuser that led nowhere, literally just angled up and then stopped about eight or 10 inches later, pointing straight at the rough underbody. They had different angles and could add or subtract I want to say about 50 pounds of downforce by using them. I think there is an advantage to turning it up, but I don't think you'll see any difference with a 3 inch diffuser after a long under tray.

I have a brake vent motor that I used to make a defroster for my Z. I was surprised with how much air it moves. 4 or 6 of them would probably work decently well for keeping underhood temps down. The other option would be to use the airflow around the car with louvers or flaps to get the air out. Louvered hood vents should help a bunch, or since you don't mind cutting holes in the fenderwells you could cut holes behind the radiator on the sides and then use S flaps on the front fenders to pull the hot air out of the rad out to the sides of the car.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59086-enginetrans-weights-definitive/

FYI, I looked at doing an FIA bar and a couple people told me to check steering wheel clearance. There was very little, so I ended up not doing it.

I think the main thing you need to make a splitter work is a boxed in radiator duct, so that any air that gets into the front goes through the radiator.

80mph but calculated forces were for 120mph.

Cameron, just looked it up. Is that really two .120" wall pieces of aluminum with poly in between? Is there another option? That's gotta be 40 lbs worth of splitter...

You might want to put a dial indicator on it and check for flex, or even just have someone stand outside and look at the firewall while you really push on the pedal. What you have looks stout, but it looks like it isn't attached to anything other than the firewall, which isn't. If it's flexy, you can run some braces up to the cowl area for more support, or run a support in the engine compartment between the firewall and the strut tower or from the strut tower down to the frame rail or something.