JMortensen

The clutch master is next to the brake master cylinder inside the driver's side inspection cover. It's the one that is smaller and only has one cap on it. It sounds like you are losing pressure somewhere. Luckily this system is pretty easy to diagnose. Usually it is the slave cylinder on the side of the block that pushes on the fork that goes bad. You can crawl under the car and pull the boot back. If fluid leaks out then your slave is definitely bad. It could also be leaking from the rubber hose that connects the hard line to the slave. This black rubber line is basically just like a brake line. They do rot after a while and it is possible that it ruptured. Should be easy to tell if this is the case, just look for a leak. Finally you've got the clutch master cylinder itself. If it leaks it leaks on the inside where it bolts into the firewall above the pedals. Same thing as the slave here, pull the boot and see if it pukes fluid. I'd bet that it is the master or slave, and not the soft line, but all 3 are suspect. Most people including me like to replace the master cylinder and the slave together, because usually they go in pairs, and if you replace the one the other is bound to go out.

I thought Kerry kicked Bush's ass in the debate last night. How's that for weird. I thought they tied in the first one... There were a couple of things that I thought made the difference. The QUESTIONS. The questions seemed slanted against Bush to me. I think Kerry was only really "confronted" by the one abortion question. The rest of them seemed to be geared at how we're going to get out of Iraq, or how were going to stop the increasing deficit, etc. The LAST REBUTTAL. This time I thought Bush made his case much more clearly, and I really think that when you look at the argument, that he scored a lot of points. The problem is that when Bush had the last word he restated his case. When Kerry had the last word, he called Bush a liar and an idiot, and I thought (along with my wife who doesn't follow politics much) that this tactic was infuriating, but also probably very effective with people who don't follow the issues or just those of us who know better. The ARGUMENTS. Both guys had a pretty concrete hold on their arguments last night. Bush gave good philosophical reasons for going to war, the short term increase in the debt, etc. Kerry gave specific responses, used the name of people who backed him or who supported his viewpoint, and called into question Bush's leadership. Seems to me that Bush could have named of 80% of the Pentagon to counter this, but didn't... IMO, Bush had the stronger argument in almost EVERY situation, even on those issues which I don't agree with him. The problem it seemed to me was that he kept allowing himself become Kerry's victim. I don't know you guys feel, but I think all Bush had to say in MOST of his answers was "That is a great plan, Sen Kerry. ON PAPER. In the real world, that plan doesn't work, and here's why:" then he could talk about how the UN sanctions wouldn't have worked because our "allies" in Europe were pulling the wool over our eyes. Or maybe he could have pointed out the anti-semitism in Europe, and how it clouds their judgement towards the middle east. Whatever. I think he called Kerry naive once, and Kerry called him an idiot 23 times. Bush made most of the arguments he needed to make. He said aren't trying to win a European popularity contest, he alluded to the oil for food scandal, he talked about deregulation of business. He just left himself open for the Kerry uppercut at the end. Same thing in the VP debate, but Cheney was able to hammer Edwards a number of times, because Cheney stopped debating with the issue, and turned instead on his opponent, and used one of his many many weaknesses against him.

I think it was a small gesture to the Spanish speaking community, and a way to show that he has a vocab of more than 50 words. From dictionary.com:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2003/09/16/wkor16.xml&sSheet=/portal/2003/09/16/ixportal.html That looks like last year's story...

Doesn't that seem a little weird to you? Any idea why that might have happened?

1. Module or coil would be my guess too. 2. That would have to be one hell of a bad tie rod to cause that. If the steering wheel moves back and forth a few inches first thing I would do is look at the tires, make sure the tread isn't separating. Then I'd make sure the lug nuts are tight. Jack up the front end and spin the tire by hand and see if it's really badly flat spotted or bulged out. After that I'd start looking at tie rods, ball joints, and bushings. A few inches is a LOT, and there should be something noticeably wrong to cause that kind of movement in the steering wheel.

Oops, OD and ID, I guess. Well 3" intercooler tubing is going to be 3.25" OD? Maybe a little less if you use 3" stainless or some really thin wall tubing... Do they force the 3" silicon hose over the tube, or buy a slightly larger hose, either way, still going to need to neck it up and then back down...

One more thing, your 240SX TB is 60mm, right? 60mm = 2.36". So you're going to have to expand your intake pipe up out of the turbo, then neck it down to the TB. I did a quick search for you. Looks like the T4 compressor outlet is 2.5". So you can get a expander for 2.5 to 3 from the turbo outlet, then a reducer from 3" to 2 3/8" to get back down to the TB, if you really think that's the best idea...

So build it so that it doesn't tend to detonate. Lower the compression ratio, turn up the boost, retard the timing, and forget about the alcohol injection. I'm not even a turbo guy and I can tell you that the size of the outlet on the turbo is going to be quite a bit smaller than 3". I think most are 2.25". That's why it doesn't make sense. You'd have to run the 2.25" outlet into some sort of a expander to get to the 3". Come on man. Do your homework. You do realize what forum this is, right? In that case you want a NEW engine. Is Nissan even making new L engines? A reman engine is a rebuilt USED engine. So buying a rebuilt engine then rebuilding it makes NO sense at all. A new engine is a waste of money too IMO. The parts that wear are the parts that are going to be swapped out during the rebuild anyway. They're the SAME EXACT FAN. When you buy a fan they have instructions for using it as a pusher or a puller. Just requires hooking up the wires backwards and flipping the fan blade. I think you want a 6 speed just so you can say you have a 6 speed, but you don't realize the expense and difficulty of adapting one into your car. Plus you're talking about using the one with the notorious 3rd gear synchro problem. At least you could be talking about using something that is proven to be strong. What the hell is a racing 5 speed? Something like what John Coffey has? A dogring 5 speed? You really wouldn't want that in your car. You wouldn't be able to hear your 800 lb 15000 watt stereo over the gear noise. Worry about building a motor that will break a normal T5, then when you get there worry about upgrading.

Wow there's a bargain!!! If I had a trailer I'd buy it...

You know, if you didn't hear the detonation when the thing was in full melt down, how do you know it hasn't been detonating before this?

I'll tell you how I got mine to stop leaking. I got a tube of clear silicone and actually used that long pointy tip that comes with it. I stuffed it under the lip of the seal and spooged a bunch of silicone INSIDE the seal around the corners. Worked great. Can't tell you how many I've seen siliconed outside the lip of the seal. The glass goes 1/2" or so inside the seal. There is plenty of room in there to get the silicone in without having to have it all over the windshield.

That's funny. John, you've been had!!! My favorite Onion story was the "ACLU Defends KKK's Right to Burn Down ACLU Headquarters!" story. Either that or "Pope Recognizes the Miracle of Birth for the 6,000,000,000th Time."

Ironically, I'm going to say that sounds like a fuel issue, not a P or N head issue. Sorry to hear about it, but hey, maybe you can get a real head on there for the next time and test out some of my "unproven" theories. (the dig had to be in there somewhere didn't it?)

Why would you want a remanufactured engine to start with? So you would get to pay for a full rebuild, then you get to pay for it again to do all the same bore, hone, balance, replace pistons, etc to get it to 3.1L. BAD IDEA. I agree with Scottie on this one. Just get a normal turbo 2.8 and crank up the boost a little higher. Why would you upgrade the distributor when you can get an engine management system that will use DIS and would be better than any distributor you could possibly buy? Pusher fan? Puller fans are more efficient and move more air than pushers. Even if it is the exact same fan mounted on the other side. 6 speed transmission is a waste of money in your case. Not easily adaptable and gives very little benefit IMO. Just one more thing to add to the list of crap you've installed when you're at the NOPI car show. At least you've dropped the "CNC a block out of aluminum"...

Not to mention that quad rotor with intake and exhaust manifolds probably weighs less than the short block of the ZZ4 and the redline could easily be twice as high. Small blocks are a good answer, but they're not the only answer.

I think I found the answer that you were looking for: http://www.markwilliams.com/technical/pedalRatio.html#CALCULATOR

You could start with sidedrafts then put dual TB's on from TWM in their place when you went FI. As to ignition, why couldn't you just get a DIS ignition system from Electromotive or someone like that? Are those setups not compatible with rotaries? Wouldn't surprise me if they weren't...

The coolest RX7 I ever saw belonged to one of my best friends. It was an 85 GSL-SE (not sure if you got those) but they came with the 13B. His was Bridge ported with a 7lb flywheel and a single sidedraft Mikuni 44. Had a header and a decent exhaust system. All that stock FI crap all over the engine was GONE. That car would bog off the line really bad, but at about 3000 rpm it would light up the tires and wouldn't stop if you kept your foot in it. Totally illegal for smog though, so my buddy sold it to someone who turned it into a full on track car. I can only imagine what a quad rotor with 2 Webers or Mikunis on it would be like. I say forget the FI and pick up 2 of those carb intake manifolds. That thing would HAUL ASS!!!

This was talked about extensively just a couple weeks ago here: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=36389&start=0 What did you search for, and where did you search? I hit the search in the forums area, typed in "chopped" and found this as the second listing, right behind your post asking about chopped Z's.

There is an appropriate ratio of pedal stroke to m/c size to pedal effort. Seems to me that most people running non-boosted systems like Tilton masters run about the same size master (maybe 1 step smaller), but the pedal ratio is a lot different so that you don't have to stand on the pedal to get the car to slow down. I agree with 2126 though, easiest thing is to find a used booster that works.

Pop, I was thinking 23 too, because you'd be driving the opposite direction on that aisle...

You think red ink and pictures of W are bad, it goes a little deeper than that. I'm reading a pretty scary book right now called "The Language Police." Read that and you won't care about red ink or pics of W anymore. Its all about the left and the right controlling the textbook makers. Think of what happens when there is NO language in a book that offends the extreme left or the extreme right. That's what our kids are learning. Ever see that South Park with the Christmas play? That's where the school books are RIGHT NOW. EDIT--for the high brow or just older crowd, the South Park Xmas play is the potty humor equivalent of Harrison Bergeron.

510's and 280ZX's are done this way, but they are rear steer meaning the tie rods and steering box are behind the crossmember. Your 280Z is front steer. I think you'd need to switch it to rear steer so that the tie rods didn't interfere with the TC rods. I suppose it's all possible, but it sure seems easier to deal with the exhaust.

I've heard anywhere from 32-38. If you go 35 you should be really close and it only matters beyond that when you're trying to eek out that last hp.