JMortensen

Just out of curiosity, does the transverse fiberglass leaf on the C5 ever shatter like the old Volvo 960's used to? Those things were snapping like toothpicks, and they made razor sharp shards. Very hard to replace. We only had one guy at the Volvo dealer I worked at who did them, and he wasn't too happy about it when one rolled in...

First off let me just say that I respect Terry both as a resource for Z stuff and as a person. He's been very helpful on a few occasions, and Terry - I appreciate ya! It's a good thing Abe Lincoln didn't listen to this logic. Was the Civil War unjustified Terry? How about the Revolutionary War? Hardly unison there. Remember those other guys, the Tories? How about going into WWI, what was Wilson's reelection slogan? "He kept us out of war". Throughout our history we have been divided about war. We had an overwhelming majority in WWII, but I don't believe that WWII was the ONLY justified war in our history. I don't think it is common at all for there to be unanimity about the US getting into a war, which is why until recently a declaration from Congress was necessary... I totally disagree. Couldn't possibly disagree more. I think that after Vietnam the average Joe was subjected to so many images of carnage that had previously been censored that a whole generation has lost their stomach for war entirely. This IMO is a BAD thing. I don't want to go out and start shit with every country on the planet, but it's looking like that is what is going to happen, and people are going to die. It doesn't always behoove us to try and ignore it or truce our way out of it. And that's just the "suffering for 1000" bit. Assume for a moment that Bush, Putin, the 9/11 Commission, the British Intelligence, the CIA, and the UN WEREN'T LYING when they thought that Saddam had WMDs (which is still an unneccessary justification for the war) and that we went under at least at the time, pretenses that were thought to be correct. Once we took over Baghdad and realized that the WMDs weren't going to be found, what should we have done exactly? Just left? Reinstalled Saddam with a wholehearted "Sorry"? Once the decision was made to go in (and the decision to give that power to Bush was given by a large majority, 98-0 with 2 not voting) I think we were stuck following that decision through. Any attempt to undercut our work towards getting Iraq stable and getting the hell out of there is the problem. That's where the uncertainty comes from. That is the type of uncertainty that brings about "graduated bombing" campaigns and "no fire" zones. IMO if you wanna help our boys over there you have to give them what they need to win. Learn the lessons of history, and probably of chilhood too, if you're going to fight, fight to win. Linebacker II strategy wins in war, Rolling Thunder loses.

Trust me. It's cheaper to replace it. The bearings are not cheap, gear sets are very pricey, and a used one of almost any ratio can be had for under $100. You could try 4 or 5 before you hit the cost of bearings and labor on a rebuild, assuming you can't do any of the labor yourself.

When I test drove the Titan I was told that they were using Dana 44 solid rear axles, and that Dana had licensed the 44 independent front axles to Nissan and that they were built in Japan. Dana 44 has a 8.5" ring gear, and there ARE front REVERSE ROTATION gears available for the 44. If the front is rev rotation, you would NOT want to put it in the back of a Z, because you'd be driving on the wrong side of the gear. If they AREN'T rev rotation (and many 4x4s don't use rev rotation on the front), then it should work fine. BTW--the Viper uses a D44 IRS and so do some Vettes. Should be plenty strong, but so should the R230 which is a 9"... You asked for conjecture, and that's what this is. I do not know for a fact that Nissan is using a D44 up front, but that is what the SALESMAN told me, and you know how reliable they are...

Yep. Sounds like a bad synchro to me. What makes you think the sound is coming from the diff.

Oh, that is classic!!!

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=36157

OK, so the question really is: How hard do you have to lean on a sissy before it gives in under the pressure. I can tell you this much: The front bar made a MUCH bigger difference on my car than the rear bar. I'm sure that the culprit up front is those long frame rails hanging out there with no roof structure. I think Jersey's point is that he probably isn't putting a significant enough load on the suspension to really flex the bar significantly. Pete and Drax say it is going to flex. Bottom line from what I can tell is that Jersey is a drag racer. I'm not thinking that a strut tower bar was on the top of his list of mods, and probably isn't going to make a noticeable difference for him anyway. But he had this sissy bar and figured he'd make use of it in a creative way. Congrats for being creative Jersey!

:cough:Suzuki:/cough:

If you search by author you'll see his 1000's of posts. To answer your question directly: http://www.betamotorsports.com

Hey Pete, have you seen this? http://www.dw-world.de/english/0,3367,1430_A_777476,00.html Somehow I can't feel all that bad that some Germans might lose their jobs if we pull out our troops... After all we did protect them from communist Russia for 45 years. You'd figure there would be a little less bitching. This is the least politically correct and TRUEST thing said on the loss of American soldiers. They are volunteer forces. What really gets me is the ones that deserted... Canada still giving them safe harbor?

Its hard too taik sumwon seerius when they cant spell. It maiks them luk stoopid.

What the hell is that, the Ford Blind Spot?

What is your POINT? The Z only depreciated 60% in 30 years, so we shouldn't take a sawzall to one and flare it? We shouldn't make it faster because of the magic 60% depreciation number? You obviously don't approve of what khashabi1 is doing. I've got 2 ideas for you: 1. Don't put a V8 in your Z. Should be easy enough. 2. Don't watch this thread. Also easy enough. You aren't making any sense. You don't like it. We get that. It's not your choice. It's not your car. You were given an opportunity to buy and "save" it. You didn't take it. Get over it.

http://www.jsc.nasa.gov/bu2/inflateCPI.html I tried this calculator at a starting price of $3000, I think the Z might have cost more like $3500 in '70. 2004 cost equivalent for $3000: $14,226. So the value of the Z hasn't kept up with inflation. If you love your Z fine, if you love your L6 fine. I love my L28 too! But this IS hybridz.org and most people are here to talk about drivetrain swaps and the LS1 is seemingly the current "best" swap. Certainly the LS1 would be more FUN to drive and FASTER than a stock L24. If stock is what you're after, you're in the wrong forum. khashabi1--Good find, I hope you make it a screamer! Congrats.

The only thing crazy about that is the front tires. No panic stops or emergency lane changes for you with 165s up front.

Anyone have an opinion as to the placement of the X piece in the back. I've always seen those pieces hit the top of the strut towers, not the front. Since there is also a bar in between, it probably doesn't make any difference, but that struck me as weird. Also, might just be the pictures, but it looks like really thick plate used to weld the bars to the chassis. I love the way it is tucked up so tight against the roof. I think that is even tighter than RC's. Good job!

EXACTLY!!! The purists had their chance to PUT UP OR SHUT UP. They didn't put up (I didn't think they would), so now it's time for option 2!!!

Maybe I'm crazy, but I used to drive my L28/E31 .490/280 with the triples in traffic with a 12lb flywheel and ACT clutch every day for ~5 years. Never bothered me, did just fine. Totally agree with this statement, which is why SU's are better street carbs, I also agree with the second part (with SU's). With triples though, I just don't see these standards holding up. I have a friend who just built a race motor and used the .460/270 cam and is now kicking himself over it. My first engine used a milder cam like that, and the triples couldn't suck enough air with it. Bottom line for me, if you're going to go triples, you might as well get a cam that allows you to use them for what they're good for--3K and up power. They aren't good for 1500 rpm pulls, if that's what you want you should sell the trips, buy some ported SU's and get the smaller cam. But that is just my opinion...

Good point. I wonder if might be at least marginally streetable with some rotating weight.

Really? I thought high rpm idles like that were either for super long duration or very very stiff springs. I don't think you're doing the super stiff spring thing, because that would defeat the purpose of having the single springs... long duration??? The other guy was Mark, not John. Wasn't Mark going to put his in a semi-street car? Like something you just drive to the track... Dan Baldwin has a similar cam in his engine, but with more lift (possibly less duration?) He drives to the track. I wonder what his idle is set at? Here's that thread:http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=30595&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=sunbelt+cam&start=0

There's nothing wrong with the L26, but people don't seem to want to buy one because you can usually get the bigger L28 for the same $$$. If you can find someone with a 240 or 260 who needs an engine, you should be able to sell it. It would definitely help to know what cam is in it. You could measure the lift with a dial indicator the multiply by 1.5 to figure at least that much out.

I gotta agree with Drax on this one. I think my cam could be a little bigger. I have a .490/280 with triple 44s. Usually I think people tend to go too huge most things, but for some reason I've been hearing about or seeing lots of sidedraft carbed Zs with .460/260, which IMO is just not enough cam. Low end cam and top end carb = crappy. Sunbelt makes a really cool sounding cam with .537 lift and unspecified duration that John Coffey and I think another John (sorry I forgot your name) are using. It only uses one valve spring, so you reduce friction by a lot, and you can still spin it up to 7200 rpm. I think that will probably be my next cam. Only issue then is will it be necessary to fly cut the pistons for clearance. Search for Sunbelt cam and I'm sure you'll find the info on it. The last guy to get one actually got the phone number for Sunbelt and a price of something like $400 for cam AND the single valve springs. EDIT--Just noticed you're in Oz, probably better to go for the next hotter grind from your cam grinder then. Something in the .500 to .510 lift, and in the 290 to 300 duration range. Yes, it will lope.

Have you checked the float level?

My buddy's 70 Ford 302 was factory rated at 300 hp with a 2 bbl. I don't think a stock 64 cam is much of a limitation. Not like a stock 79 cam, if you see what I'm getting at. No SMOG!!!