randy 77zt

if i had an sti i would find somebody to trade for stock sti spoiler.i heard that had problems with m3 motor blowing up.old porsche-no.i like the newer 911 body style-very sleek and classy.i must be getting old.i would be happy with standard 2 wheel drive s model-keeps weight down and price down.i have been thinking about getting a honda s2000 after selling my boat.just a quick simple car to run around in that only needs oils changes.would have to be a 2004+ model with bigger motor.

its all anout the nox emissions.bmw has a 5 series 4 door in europe that gets 30 mpg cruising at 100 mph-its a twin turbo v8.maybe if somebody could hijack some engines????

i got mine from a 2400cc datsun 810they are easy to find.

looked like 1 of the new cobra's.5.4l supercharged 32 valve 400hp 6 speed with factory brembo brakes.to bad that darwin award winner got ahold of it.driving a stick shift will be a lost art soon.

i dont see why people see using 2 stroke oil as hassle -its just that they are not used to using it.i have a 22' speed boat with a 300hp mercury outboard.it has a separate 3 gallon oil tank and you can run about 5-6 tanks of gas as long as the oil tank is full.back in 1st gen rx7 days my cousin had old rx7.it burned about 1 qt every 500 miles.i would much rather have an oil tank than run the crankcase out of oil.2 stroke oil is designed to burn so it burns much cleaner.the cheapest good oil is yamaha watercraft oil-you goto dealer with a 1 gallon jug or 5 gallon jug and buy in bulk at $15 a gallon.the redline full synth i run in my boat is $35 a gallon.i would suspect that good oil will make the rotor seals last longer.run 2 stroke oil through fuel injectors does not plug them -mercury marine runs the oil through the injectors no problem.i just sent the injectors on my boat engine to rc engineering for a flow test and clean and the injectors were within 2.6% of each other when they got there.

22 year experience ford technician just got laid off.all the local dealerships are losing business and i am very tired of working on cars.if the dealerships do hire they hire very young guys or people from south of the border and dont pay much.the dealer i was working at was the only union shop for 80 miles.most shops pay by piece work/flat rate.i think its time to move out of california.if i sell my house i can afford to buy some real estate somewhere else-or buy a house or 2 to fix and sell .any suggestions on good places where property prices havent sunk to much and local economy is stable?

took my e150 cargo van down there about 1 1/2 years ago because my neighbor had tickits to a boxing match at mgm.its about an 8 hour drive from my house.where we screwed up was by not loading up my fz1 and his gsxr750.a sunny ride out to the dam and lake mead would have been more fun than hanging out on the strip.+ the van is a b#$%^ to park.

unless there is a reason to goto vegas like sema or the consumer electronics/porn convention i really dont like going there.i can get a plane ride there for $50 1 way.any good show there is +$100 a seat.after a couple of hours off that electronic slot machine noise my brain feels all mushy like one of my bad habits in high school.

a person would expect the all aluminum ls based motor to be a lot lighter.this myth is busted.if you use the same scale for comparing 2 objects back to back you get a number,it was really the difference of the weight between the 2 engines is what people are curious about.nothing wrong with the post-but if some body just spent money on a ls motor thier ego might be hurt.please keep random tidbits of info coming-it makes my day.

sanderson makes some tight space kit car headers for many different engines.for your 4x2 headers i think i remember seeing header kits somewhere with precut flanges and a box of bends.the 02 sensors can be put in 1 of the 2x1 collectors on each side.you might want to take the firing order into consideration-to get a more even sound.there are companies that cater to the street rod crowd that can reburn the ecm to ignore the lack of vats,egr,cat monitor 02s,fuel tank pressure sensors so you dont have constant trouble codes.or you might by some ready made tight space headers and branch back out to 2 pipes.

i used 2 1/8 summit u-bend for my hot side piping.i reclocked the turbo and ran it under the pan and into the ic through rh hole in the radiator core support.i used some old ford powerstroke truck ic tubing for the cold side.

i wont comment on the person posing with the car but if i was looking for 80's ferrari it would be a 512bb and not a whimpy 308.

buy the stim board-it checks your ms out function wise and also allows you to learn how to program the ms out of your car.you can learn at the comfort of your desk.since i am more of a hardware guy instead of a software type this was important.

you have to have a control circuit for wide band o2-see innovate motorsports website.ms guys have a kit i think but i just spent the money and got it done.

i had to adjust my trigger angle because after checking my set up with timing light i was 8 degrees late.my magnets were installed in my flwheel at 60btdc and every 60 degrees.so i set my offset to 52 and it worked as checked by the timing light.if you are doing a turbo engine this is critical.

my ms works great but be prepared to read ALOT on msefi.com.i spent about 10x more time reading about it than actually working on it.but i tore my engine out for a total update to my car including fuel system redo with bigger pump and lines.how much do you know about electronics?i have a 2 year degree (as) in electronics +20 years experience as a dealership auto tech for ford dealers.also ase certified master technician.if i was to bill myself for my time i would have been $ ahead by buying something already made with an owners manual.but since i have been out of the electronics game i was looking for a challenge.part of my install on my ms was to get rid of all old datsun parts.there is only 1 wire (=12v from key on at connector to ols ecm)that feeds my ms.every thing else is new.i fire my ms fron an industrial hall effect sensor triggered by magnets in my flywheel.but i did figure how to fire the old zxt coil/power transistor with the ms.

when i set my 77 z up for a track day i have a sparco racing seat i put in and have harnesses installed.i built a heavy tube bar that bolts where the original shoulder harness reels where and the shoulder harnesses are strapped on that bar.the seat has harness holes in it.the lap belts are on the original bolts.because of the sides on the seat the car is a real b@#$% to get in and out of and the seat has to be moved back to access the door handle.racing stuff sucks on the street.but there are a very few aftermarkit seats that allow easy access and will hold you in on a track.

coil pack=distributorless ignition.car must have some amount on electronics aboard.a 75-78 280 z distributor will drive a msd 6 type box directly through mag pick-up input.from your post it sounds like you have some studying to do about how things work.keep reading but beware the admins on this site will remind you to use the search function.

zcar.com seemed like a bunch of computor nerds trying to figure out which end of the screwdriver to use.this is the best car website on the net.z car=poor mans cobra.

if you sheet rock or finish the inside white the light will bounce and shop will be very bright inside.200 amp service=welder,lift,air compressor.some guys have a loft + shower so when they dont get along with ole lady they have some place to hide.

more than likely but dont quote me because my set up doensnt use gm hei module.my set up uses the wire that would end up on g terminal triggering stock zxt power transistor through yellow wire on power transistor.ms requires much online study.

the + side of the coil should still have 12v running from the key switch-this will supply the coil and hei module.the 5v + 1k resistor is called a pull-up circuit.the relay board grounds that terminal on the hei module to fire.when the g terminal isnt grounded that is the time the coil is charging.so the g terminal sees 5v unless grounded by the relay board.the 1k resistor is there to limit current from the 5v supply on the relay board.i have a circuit like that in my fidle relay sockit on my ms.it drives the stock 81zxt transistor on the stock 81zxt coil brackit through the yellow wire from zxt efi system.

got my ms,relay board,stimulator from jerry at diy-a+ to deal with.got a harness kit,air temp coolant temp & connectors from rs-no problems.just be sure to make sure to check to see if what you want is in stock ready to ship.

i have spare motor on stand with 80,000+ mile running 15psi boost with stock 81zxt ecm and turbo.if you dont detonate it it will last without forged pistons.motor hit 20 psi a few times.finally blew the head gaskit.

street race in cali=car impound for 30 days