RebekahsZ

Could be the flares are the problem. Measure your ride height from the pinch seam on the lowest point in the rockers. With a tape measure-Not by what looks right. Start out just trying to get the rockers to 5.5" off a smooth garage floor, measured right in front of each rear wheel and right behind each front wheel. Try to set the left and right sides the same for now. Keep notes.

Took a big piece of meat off my right thumb today with a flapper disc when cleaning up welds from having a new winch plate welded onto my trailer. It's in the spot where my pen rests when writing. It's gonna be a shitty week....surgeon with sore right thumb.... My trailer is 16' and trails fine. My LS powered S10 extended cab weighs 4000#. My Z and trailer together weigh 400#. I moved my car up until it added 500# to the rear axle weight of the truck. When I first centered the car over the trailer axles, it swayed bad. Since I put 500# on the tongue, all sway stopped. Another issue is the fenders on the trailer. I have dropped axles on my trailer (to reduce loading angles), but I can't open my doors when loaded between the fenders. So, I winch on and off, every time. I like winching up-I feel in control of the loading process. And I have 6' ramps (heavy). Never, never, never try to load without the trailer attached to the tow vehicle. Never, never, never move your loaded trailer without at least 1 strap fore and aft. I had a bracket welded to my rear crossmember for attaching straps to. I had additional tie-downs welded to the trailer deck to allow custom attachment. Finally, I painted stripes on the deck of my trailer to allow me to load straight from the start. And I bolted rubber chalks onto the deck to let me know I'm loaded in the right spot.

1989, Palisades Parkway, upstate NY. Red, 427 3-2 side pipes equipped convertible stingray. Ran for over an hour at 120mph plus to make it back to West Point for dinner formation after taking my buddy to the airport. I had a couple of buddies with nice cars (1984 911) that used me to ferry them places and trusted me to get their cars back for them in one piece. Good times.

Also, when you say "not level" are you measuring from the pinch welds on the rockers? These cars aren't really square from the factory. My fender gaps are all a little off, side to side. Have you had any fenders or quarter panels replaced?

Would you consider leveling the car with the coilovers, then put the car in a good level concrete garage floor and measure around from "pick up point" to point with a tape measure? The pick up points are basically for the front: the TC boxes (there's a bolt in the center), the inner LCA pivots (there's a bolt in the center) and the bottom facing of the study tower. For the rear: the front and back center LCA mounts, and the bottom face of the strut tower. Before you submit yourself to a frame puller, measure that stuff yourself. The floors really don't affect alignment-they can be bashed to hell and the car can still be square. If you have struts mod-ed for Tokicos, you should be running springs in the rear that are 2" longer than in the front. And with Tokicos, the front springs typically are loose (an inch or more) if the car is jacked up. My spare chassis has had the shit smashed out of it and it still sits level. I'm sorry you are having trouble.

Get some help from a hot rod shop and have that welded. Structural adhesive is good for binding panels that touch one another, not filling holes. My fab guy here in Florence could fix that no prob....when he got around to it. These guys tend to be "artists" and most of them work at an artist's pace. But I can't do what they do, so I'm used to long delays.

Just make some spacers to separate the bar from the frame 3/8". You can even use a little piece of oak. Put the spacer between the frame and the bar and use longer metric bolts to secure it. Somewhere years ago I found sway bar bushing kit that had thicker rubber that pushed my bar away from the frame. I would take some pictures for you, but my car is in fab-shop-purgatory. If I get it home this week, I will shoot you a few pics. Feel free to PM me as a reminder. The spacer bushings are the ticket-I still run stock links. Then we gotta figure out where I found them... But I ran little pieces of wood for years.

I wonder how much it opens if you suddenly find yourself going backwards, or round-and-round. I know that happens to me with some regularity.

1973 Corvette Stingray.

Having a trailer is like having another car. It has to be figured out and maintained. I spent a lot of time figuring out how to locate the car on the trailer to avoid sway. My winch just died, and to put a new one on it, I had to have a bunch of welding done. It's a whole 'nuther project.

$600

Get to know folks who have been here for a while and have successfully done what you are trying to do. Then PM the people you want advice from. I've kinda quit answering questions cast into cyberspace, but I still respond to people. Be prepared to send a lot of pictures and to take some measurements. If you want you can call me at 256-366-4685. I'm going to the movies tonight but have no major plans for the holiday. I only know about home built coilovers with sectioned strut tubes. I know nothing of these systems where you chop off the Z strut tube and weld on an entire aftermarket tube.

He's not a noob, you turd.

Mark, I just downloaded a speedometer app for my phone and I run with a suction cup mount to the windshield. When the dash comes out this winter, I'm switching to a data-logger. Try PMing Travis at EasTNZ. He has Speedhut gauges. I think Robbie at Socorob has them too. He's super helpful.

Refreshed 327:hone, rings, bearings,seals and gaskets, with edelbrock top-end kit. 4-speed is fine-I rarely use 5th on the track. 3.54 R200 diff until you stumble across a 3.36. Don't get crazy low profile tired but keep the diameter large to keep rpms down. Get one of those new helical LSDs out of the group buy or vendors forum, 39 spline stubs, Z31 CV kit or TTT 8.8 swap. Shitty paint cause nobody looks twice at a shiny car these days. You are golden.

How loud is it? My truck is so loud with long-tube headers and a single 3" that I have to turn the truck off at drive-thru windows. What you have there looks pretty dang loud!

You are right-that's stupid. That's why I don't mess with the SCCA. I'm a member, but I don't try to compete. Much like the US Army, the SCCA does a good job of taking something that could be fun and makes it work!

I'm pretty sure that the fastest timeslip posted on hybridZ is from an old-school SBC. And an n/a SBC to boot! The SBC is far from dead. We think our LS is so great! Ever heard of a SB2? Now THAT is an engine. There are lots of ways to make hp.

Stick with what you have and enjoy it. You can't enjoy it if it is taken apart for the next 2-10 years.

Here's the spoiler I just installed. I can plan to test only with top speed over a 1-mile course. I will compare it to 1) no spoiler, 2) small BRE spoiler, and the pictures spoiler. The rear hatch is pre-drill to accept all 3 conditions. I will be using o-rings on the strut rods to measure maximum suspension compression, and I understand that I will not be able to eliminate SO many variables like density altitude, winds, and driver error. "Stability" assessment will be totally a matter of driver impression. I wish A2 was cheaper, but I totally understand why it is not.

Yes and no. Cars often sit at these shops for six months til the guy spends a couple hours on it and knocks it out. I have limited options here in rural Alabama. Perhaps one day I will have the equipment to do this sort of thing myself.

Car went today to get chute mount built. Great day for my trailer winch to give up the ghost. I guess it is better than a race day. So, I have the same time to get a new (bigger) winch installed as the fab guy has to build the chute mount. He said it should take a week-I'm prepared emotionally for a month. We talked about integrating some tubing from the trailer hitch bracing to the roll bar for future use as an attachment for a NO2 bottle. I'm also hopeful that he can integrate the chute release into the unused parking brake release handle. I have to be able to reach the release with arm restraints on, but I also don't want to deploy the chute by accident. Chute mount is to double as a receiver hitch (Drag Week), and as an adjustable chute mount for: no rear spoiler, BRE-style small spoiler, and a large zccjdm spoiler. I'm not worrying about a push bar for now, since a 3.36 is my lowest diff ratio. EasTNz and I are registered for the GA 1/2- mile Sep 17. No chute required for that venue.

Your tubing cuts look SO clean!

I'm sure you already thought of this, but: If you are gonna take the cover off to install or remove the diff, be sure that you have good access to the fill plug and drain plug. It sucks to install a dry diff only to realize that you have no way to fill it. I would never do such a thing.....

If you want, you can skip the rear bar. Most of us don't run it. Car is nice and neutral without it.