RebekahsZ

Thanks for the support guys. I've spent all the effort on it that I want to. It seems there is a lack of general support just in the concept. With the Ls motor becoming the new SBC I actually thought I had an idea that could fund my retirement. Twas not meant to be. Maybe I'll start making custom shift knobs, neon lights for floor pans, lowering kits for pickups, sports car lowering kits that wont tolerate running over bird poop, and wheel packages that put 195/60s on 11 inch wide wheels. You know, items that function. Unsubscribing myself from my own thread.

If it is 14X1.50 bolt depot has them cheap. I didn't order from them because the pitch looks more like 1.25 to me but I may be wrong. I would just use the pitch gauge in my tap set but I have been fooled by it before. I got confirmation emails from all the vendors I ordered from last night so hopefully I will be ready by the weekend. Thanks guys!

Can we talk about fuel cell foam for a bit? I've never used any. I hear it breaks down quickly and has to be changed frequently. When it breaks down, does it get nasty and fill the tank, lines and filters with snot? I have a stock tank that I modified with a baffle/sump around my fuel pickup. Well, I still get fuel starvation on turns when the tank is low. Do you think I could add foam to help with that? Would I put foam in the sump, outside the sump? How do I keep foam from interfering with the fuel sender float? I put an access panel on the top of the tank, so I could get foam in without much more trouble than dropping the tank (which I'm getting good at).

I may have found one 4 hours away in Tennessee, near Chattanooga. This forum member, Roger, has a shed full of diffs and he's going to root thu them when he gets some time; he has a 1974 260 2+2 (don't know if it is automatic or manual). He has been a car and part provider for the Z-Barn over the years. Turns out the Roger (Shmidt) who owns the Z-Barn lost his wife this year and has kind of let his business go fallow - imagine mountains of Z-cars smouldering under kudzu vines 'till eternity.

Have you removed the stock proportion valve? I removed mine, drilled the guts out of it and replaced it; then my plumbing was all still stock, just no pressure reduction to the rear brakes. If you then get rear wheel lock up, you can put in a cockpit proportion valve.

I started this thread, for the most part, to gauge interest for turning my bracket into a prototype for a production run. I figure I'd have $85 in the stacks, plus probably about 50 in the bracket to get it plasma cut, dressed and bent. Then a few bucks for hardware and the run-around. So, I was thinking it would cost about $200 to make for other people. The interest has been poor, so I'm not sweating it. Once I got poor reviews, I've just had as much fun as possible ( I like some good-hearted teasing and practical jokes ). I wonder what function would be required in order to be considered "functional." They hold water well when it rains, so perhaps I could remove my hood and get an environmental conservation grant for rainwater storage. If I mountd a fan under them, I could state that they increase engine airflow...now maybe that will work - especially if I list them as a "must have" in a performance catalog. I'll continue this thread so long as it is fun.

You might try ceramic pads in rear and semi metallics in front. Ceramics bite better cold and semis don't bite as well cold but resist fade. If you don't track the car (road race) fade isn't a regular issue. Street cars mainly worry about good performance cold. That is what we perceive most of the time. Race pads aren't any better until you get them hot.

I don't know for sure. It is more than 12mm and looks to be 1.25 pitch. My fastenal is pretty limited on the metric fine thread stuff. I ordered from black dragon. Com. Needed some other stuff from them anyway.

Boy from Oz: Stay Calm and Carry On! Looking good.

Bolt depot only has course thread pitch, so I just ordered from Blackdragon.

OK - went down stairs, jacked up car and pulled an R180 diff mounting bolt - darn-it! Another road block. It ain't the same, (the R200 stud is lots larger) and thread pitch looks pretty fine, so I don't expect to find one at my local hardware store. Back to the internet to pay $10 shipping on a $5 part! Local Nissan dealer might be worth a call....

As above. I need to get larger nuts ordered pronto if they are not the same size, so I can get diff installed on Saturday. (OK, I'm in bed being lazy and I don't want to go down and jack the car up, pull a nut and check). I figure order needs to go out tomorrow early with expedited shipping. I hope the moderators can take a joke.

Moderators: please move this to the drivetrain sticky section.

No-I blew it and didn't get the diff! I fell asleep and failed to get a last minute bid in....(sad face). Agree, always get the whole diff.

It may vary from tire manufacturer to manufacturer, but I ran 205/50/15 BFG Comp TAs for 10 years (lots of storage time during med school/residency). There was still lots of fender gap even with coilovers and a 5" rocker to ground clearance. I scraped a lot. I won't be back to those size tires again. My favorite 15-inch tire size is 225/50/15. Fits fine if you have a zero offset tire like the 15X6 swashtica or a 15X7 with 4.5 to 4.75 inches of backspacing. It doesn't really provide a significantly larger tire patch when compared to the 205/50/15, but you get just enough more sidewall to fill up the fenders without getting tall like a 60-series. It will still be square with the edge of the rim on a 15X7. If I can find some Rota RB 15X7 with near-zero offset in Hyperblack, I will unload 3 sets of 15" rims that will work: swashticas (rough), some Epsilon mesh (a little rough) and some ARE (BBS look-alike) mesh (pretty cherry).

OK, so you are on the other side of Chattanooga - I could pull that off. See my PM to you.

Super! The only thing that would have made it better would to have had a friend with you. Who took your pictures? How do you have time to hit the gym when you are doing all that car work-must be nice to be young. Love the switch panel - what do each of those switches do? I think your paint looks great. The best way to stop enjoying your z-car is to make it shiny-you'll worry about it all the time instead of driving it. I have decided, for myself, not to spend the time on 5-lug - You already have amazing wheels. I recommend that you spend your time and money on other things, like your coilovers, camber plates and cage, then growing as a driver. Another car without flares-a kindred spirit-love it!

If you are going to make your own headers, think about doing dump tubes thru the inner fenders. Multiple tubes exiting thru the fender ala Spitfire or P51 Mustang would be AWESOME and consistent with your paint scheme. I wouldn't even care if you did fake tubes, (but you know how I feel about the art of illusion). I would have done it, but my brake booster is in the way. It looks like you have taken care of that. You would need to relocate your battery, which isn't a big deal. AN lines are not that expensive, so worry not. Get them from Speedwaymotors.com. They have a house-brand high pressure push-on style fittings that are really easy to assemble and are reasonably inexpensive; just remember to add 1/4" on each end to account for the length lost due to the expansion of the hose as it passes over the barbs on the fittings. Have it - love it. Do spend the extra money for a set of AN wrenches. Your fuel cell looks great. With that sump, you are on the way to success. Probably a third of my project was redoing the fuel tank, and I am still not happy with it. You already have that licked.

It looks great and is "real" but you have a couple of challenges associated with it. You have all those butterflies to synch. You also have a certain amount of mess and fire risk due to fuel standoff, float bowel venting fuel most, flame and fuel backfires and fuel drip from the venturis when you choke it, stick a float needle or flood it. To each his own. I used to get excited by this sort of thing but having lived with it, I'm in love with single throttle body EFI. There is a ford owner in the web club who runs this very setup. I wonder where he stands on it.

Having done this, I would still buy JCI trans mount to get phase angles right, but I would then use it as a template or modify it for better fit. The only job of the trans mount is to support weight and locate the tail housing at the right angle. The JCI mount does these things well. What it does poorly is that it conforms poorly to the trans tunnel so you have to hammer the tunnel to get it to fit and it could have better angles in the "c-notches" that poorly allow for exhaust passage.

Clutchdust's setup pretty well shows all the different aspects of electric fuel pump installation and filters that I discussed. As he says too, I don't think it will solve whatever your actual problem is. If you want to spend some time describing your symptoms, most of us on the forum like a good challenge. Maybe we can help you get your car running more reliably. I mean - how steep is this hill? If your car dies on a hill, I would think about the condition of your fuel reservoirs, more specifically either your fuel tank or your carburetor float bowl. Or even a loose wire grounding out or even your battery grounding a cell out. What makes it die, then what do you do that works to get it going again? I had years of intermittent trouble with a dirty fuel tank - a lack of reliability really kills the fun. I've also had trouble with fuel mixture when changing climates, so how cold does it get when you go up the mountain?

There is a forum thread sticky about Ross at Modern Motorsports that you should read. He's just unpredictable. One minute, he's great and ships promptly; the next time he can't be contacted. Rumor is he's getting divorced. I feel bad for him - he has great products, but one of the reasons I did the R200 swap instead of a Q45 swap was this very issue. Don't bother getting frustrated with him: it is just a case of knowing the threat. You might get lucky, or you might get really frustrated - you just never know. Maybe somebody else on the forum will have a secret phone number for him?? I assume you tried email?

Yeah, I feel about the same way you do. I'm a little uncomfortable about them or I wouldn't have asked. Keeping them for now but I don't know if I'll keep them in the long run. I grew up looking at multi-port induction systems and wild 6 or 8 carb systems. I love the look, but I don't want the headaches. Thanks for your comments.

The "snout" on the inner CV is a different length from one side to the other. I think I have it right?? The short CV is on the short axle and the long CV is on the long axle. When I had them backwards, the axle assemblies were within 1/8" of each other in length.

Brush-type rustoleum glass black.