RebekahsZ

I will measure mine when I get home since my tires are off. If mine is off, Im not fixing it. Too many other issues more pressing on the list. What style camber plates do you have? With the brake pads installed, does the rotor spin smoothly?

I will measure mine when I get home since my tires are off. If mine is off, Im not fixing it. Too many other issues more pressing on the list. Do you have weld-in camber plates installed/do you plan to install them?

The camber on my car is not even side to side by almost 1/2 degree. I still enjoy the car a lot and drive the hell out of it. Your car is so nice-I wouldn't let this slow down my build. I lowered my S10 and found out that the truck isn't square-I now run a 2" lowering block on one side and a 3" lowering block on the other. I would rock on to the next part of your build and check this off the list.

One issue with totally maxing out your wheel and tire fitment is: facing the unexpected. I only run 245/45/16 on the front of my Z. I haven't had the heart to cut my pretty sheetmetal for flares. The fender clearance is tight but it has been fine for years. Well, I ran off the track in a series of random gyrations last track day. I didn't notice it until I got home-I tweaked both front fender arches! Gonna try my wife's rolling pin to fix the tweak and maybe roll the lip. But even with 245/16s Im one step closer to flaring the fronts. When you push limits of fitment, sometimes you find the limit.

Very cool! I'm not sure we mentioned this, but the interference point for tire rub is actually a little FORWARD of the apex of the fender arch. So if you can, cheat your flares toward the front of the car. You will notice in my last pictures that I have eliminated a good portion of the "dog leg" of the rocker panel. Same for the front. When/if you go to reslly wide front tires, they will conflict with the front of the fender arch and the rear edge of the airdam. SunnyZ's car shows how far forward you should cheat the front fender flare. If I can find a pic I will post it. Might as well eliminate the front side markers-they are in the way if you do flares "right". I think SunnyZ is running 17x9.5 with 275/45/17 tires. You only have to cheat forward if you plan to turn your steering wheel. It's not necessary if your car is a static display.

What size coat and pants do you wear?

Find a mentor that seems to have a build that you would like to mimic and PM him. Almost every time I have tried to help someone with wheel fitment they have just ignored all my advice.

I don't see any 1% rust!

Bro, you work FAST.

I'm not an expert but I bet what you have is good. I would NOT coat the inside with anything that could crack off and foul the oil.

Largest drag radial Ive seen under stock fenders is a 235/60/15 on either 15x6 or 15x7. I think you might be on crack to get a 275 DR under stock sheetmetal. That's a 28" diameter, 12" wide tire at the sidewall.

I'm still using a R200 CLSD with Z31T axles and Chequered Flag Racing 39-spline stub axles. The inner CV shaft is the weak link, but I have only busted one as opposed to 3 driveshafts.

We cut mine so that the roof of the inner fender was completely flat. I can run 28" slicks. As BJ suggested, ya gotta have the tires on it that you intend to run. My pic below may look extreme, but this is the same flare position shown in the road race photo above.

Love it. Pictures from underneath for the gear heads in the group??

I believe it is! But I wouldn't call you that, rather, you were instructing. The frames that followed were of one of my spins.

Safety is your brain. My S10 has a clutch switch and it is a pain in the arse. Have your computer guy eliminate the clutch switch.

Looks like a great day for a swim!

My favorite pic EVER!

Anything g that's not needed can be removed. The big question is what to store and save....right after I toss something, I need it.

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I just noticed my damn auto correct changed tie-rods to toe rods. Glad you all figured it out.

When I do the tie rods I plan to install the billet short steering arms to quicken the ratio (all because my door bars conflict with my elbow). I hope I can still turn the wheel when the tires get warm and sticky! I can really feel the heaviness of the car when I manage to brake and release properly going into a turn. It's like the weight of the whole car is all on the front outside tire and I'm lifting the whole car when I turn in. If I get off the brake too abruptly and the weight rocks back off the front, the car turns in without so much of a work out. I don't know if this phenomenon is normal or if it could be some dynamic alignment changes during braking. As usual, my inexperience as a driver makes me uncertain if I have a problem or if what I'm feeling is normal...

You don't need to lock tite the pinion nut and you don't need to torque it specifically. Just put it on and hit it a couple quick times with the impact. Keep your impact on the low setting and just do a quick "braap, braap.". There's no real load on that nut other than the weight of the driveshaft. The rotational torque from the engine is applied to the splines. The driveshaft keeps the nut from falling off if it were ever able to back off any. It won't.

Strangely, there are some variations in the racks that I have had. There are racks out there that fit our cars and are sold by "rebuilders" that use inner tie rods that are similar to the 1979 280zx version. Those screw INTO the rack with male threads. Instead of ONTO the rack with female threads. I would post a picture but I turned that rack in as a core.

Not a fan of progressive springs. I had a set once and the soft end was constantly coil-bound. I kinda think progressive springs are just so much hype.