clarkspeed

My race car had a chopped up hood when I bought it. It weighed 26.5 lbs. It eventually began to crack apart after years of abuse. I replaced with FG shell I reinforced myself. It weighs 11.5. I was going to cut up a hatch in similar fashion, but ended up buying FG instead.

Pickup points can vary greatly from car to car. Especially the strut tops. Not too hard to measure. I leveled the chassis on jack stands and plumbbob points to tape on the floor. Took about 3 h ours ea. Front and rear.

I'm using the SusProg3d. I played with the demo version for awhile before I bought. Works ok once you get used to it. You can learn a lot just playing with it. I was amazed how sensitive roll center was to ride height and camber on strut suspensions. I now try to set my ride heights to the millimeter. And you can figure out what is BS and what is not on this forum. I wish I had bought years ago instead of copying others.

Good luck. I was reading an article about the Toyota F1 engine program. They had a dedicated building and about 25 engineers working on their fuel delivery system. Seems the pumps were very hi-tech.

I say invest in a geometry simulation program. I've been playing around with one for a few months now along with re-reading many books. You can change that spacer, lengths of CA, inner pivot points, etc. and see the results in 2 minutes. Some things have a big effect, others do not. It will point you in the right direction.

I say buy the pre-flaired lines. Available locally in most any size you need in 3/16 Dia. Standard unions for long runs and standard tees easy to get. Just buy some standard to metric adapters to convert the ends. Save yourself a bundle. Unless you are restoring to concourse level.

Some shops like to shave a head after it is warped instead of straightening. The head will be thinner on the ends and thicker in the middle. The combustion chambers will measure accordingly.

Reproducing this head could be much more cost effective using selective laser melting in the future. The technology is advancing rapidly. The prices are dropping each year for 1-off and prototype parts. Similar material properties and finishes to investment casting. Unlimited complexities. Amazing stuff.

I also recommend reading Bobistheoilguy forum. Everything you ever wanted to know.

Basic alignment then get some sticky autocross tires. They will cover up most minor handling problems and transform even the most mundane car into a race car. You can then work on improving driving skills. The downside is the tires will wear quickly on outside until you get enough camber for them.

I have raced 2 cars with the plates bolted underneath. No problems seen. I would do something extra if you wanted to put on top.

I run the same Fuel safe box with an external Bosch pump. I forgot to add gas before a practice session at Atlanta and ran out on track. I was able to limp a half lap back to pits. There was less than 1/4" of gas left in bottom of cell. It works great.

Impressive stuff! Thanks for sharing.

What # radiator cap are running? Moving up in pressure may help.

I just bolted up a similar oil pan on my fresh engine a few weeks ago. It's an older piece but I'm pretty sure it is of the Nissan Comp lineage. When i ran the engine we had leaks everywhere. Turns out the ARP main studs were hitting the pan causing a .030" gap. Couldn't see it with thick Nissan Comp gasket installed. So check the fit up before bolting down if you use the studs.

Simple white. And a little vinyl.

I've been chasing front end shake on the race car for a long time. Most recently thought the rack was bad on center but instead traced it to the splined steering shaft just below the coupling. I removed the shaft and rotated it a couple teeth and reinstalled. Seemed to engage the splines better and the movement was gone.

Unless you raise compression, you will regret it.

GoPro is hard to beat. Tom just got one and his video spliced with mine is in the Motorsport forum. Suction mount is very good and so is sound quality. There are also many others. Replay XD is also nice. But for those on a budget...I found a Veho Muvi pro on ebay for $30. They sell new on Amazon for $60. About the size of my thumb with a clip to mount. It was used for my in-car videos for the races I posted. Lots of sample videos on YouTube if you search. For these suspension videos, I have an older setup that was posted out on ITForums.com a few years ago before GoPro was popular. It's a Neuros Recorder 2 combined with a cheap bullet camera. I probably have $70-$80 in it. The camera has a mount I secure with sheet metal screws. And the recorder has a remote. But the quality is rough, suitable for an IPOD screen, or suspension analysis.

Well I finally got around to shooting some video of my rear suspension during a hot lap at Road Atlanta. The camera was a little shaky but can still see what is going on. It was mounted left rear facing forward. Most of the turns are right so much of the footage shows the left rear loaded. Looks to max about 2" compression and 1.5" rebound at the wheel by my calculations off the freeze frames.

I agree, the AFR's are way off. Fix the rich condition.

Set up cam with degree wheel. It's the only way to know what you have and get close to cam specs. If its a new build, I will also check piston to valve clearance at multiple cam angles so I will have no fear of trying different cam settings on the dyno. Often you can get by with stock sproket so save your money unless your measurements say you need it.

Keep stock crank, ATI or BHJ damper, balance everything, then race it.

$3500 for a custom crank isn't so bad compared to those $1600 Carillo rods. EP isn't cheap.

Sam at LNA could help. Just south of greensboro. Knows much about L6's.